Mancation 2015 - Comb Wash to Elephant Hill

Basinben

New member
This route was recently described in Overland Journal. However, this trip had been on my mind since my friend Chris and I drove the Utah Backcountry Discovery Route in 2013. We decided to stray from the motorcycle route and travel through Beef Basin to Elephant Hill and reconnect with the UTBDR on the Lockhart Basin road. After dealing with quicksand and detours we were eventually forced to turn back at Bobby's Hole because the road had been destroyed by heavy rains a few days prior. We backtracked to the Bridger Jack road and ended up seeing a huge black bear in Indian Creek. That trip was the first official 'Mancation'. Upon returning from that adventure my wife noticed such a positive change in me that she decided an annual Mancation was mandatory!
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Previously, the timing of these trips were extremely last minute. I was disappointed that I had not given my dad enough heads up to schedule time off from work for the last 2 trips. This Summer, I utilized knee surgery recovery time to schedule and plan the Fall adventure. The trip would include my great friend Chris in his FJ80, my dad in his FJ Cruiser and myself in a 97 Discovery. It had been a while since I had gone on a trip with my dad and I was very excited to show him this area. When I was little he had fueled my appetite for adventure by bringing me library photocopies of Unimog and Land Rover adventure articles. He later had me convinced that my first car had to be a 67' Land Rover series IIa 88". I would come home with 'close call' stories from solo adventures in the Monte Cristo mtns. near our home in Ogden, UT. His expression of genuine concern for my solo wanderings only fueled my young craving for adventure. Needless to say I was looking forward to a father/son offroad adventure while Chris and myself had a score to settle with Bobby's Hole.
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Chris and my Dad had packed and prepared in a timely fashion. I thought I had. At the last minute I had to deal with some shock absorber issues and the day before departure my front-driverside brake caliper decided to blow 2 seals. I owe a great deal of thanks to Bill at Great Basin Rovers for helping me acquire the necessary parts within literally hours notice.
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Day 1:
We still managed to depart on schedule and planned to meet Chris in Bluff, UT. in the evening. Chris had decided to leave a couple days early and was going to find a great spot in Valley of the Gods for our first night. My Land Rover handled the best it ever has with new matching shocks. I won't go into details but the expensive 12" remote reservoirs I was running in the rear were not a good match for the OME's in the front. I also managed a MPG best of 16 on the way to Moab! We recently found a local gas station that sells ethanol free 88 octane gasoline. After several fillups I've experienced a significant improvement in performance. The fuel combined with my 4.6 engine and 4.11 gears has actually resulted in better performance than when my Disco was stock and fully loaded! My Dad was already voicing his extreme satisfaction for his brand new Cooper STT Pro tires. He noticed hardly any increase in road noise but a noticeable improvement in handling and ride compared to his previous name brand all-terrains.
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We made a brief stop in Moab for fuel, a backcountry permit and green chili smothered lunches at the Moab Diner. Obtaining a backcountry permit for Canyonlands N.P. was very easy. However, I learned that booking 10 days in advance was not early enough (you can request permits up to 4 months in advance). There were plenty of sites available, I just didn't receive the permit before our scheduled departure. I was able to contact the Moab office on the way down and they were happy give me the permit at the main office in Moab. After a brief warning about flash flooding, quicksand and $1500 towing fees we set off. Just as we were leaving Moab, Chris called and informed me that Valley of the Gods was incredibly windy and new 'NO FIRES' signs were posted in all the campsites. Having looked forward to our first night in the desert around the fire we quickly agreed that we'd meet up with Chris on the Comb Wash road instead.
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Camp #1
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Day 2:
Everyone was up by 7:00 making coffee. Coffee was on Chris and I list after trying the previous 2 yrs. to compensate with tea. We had both opted for backpacker French presses but soon realized our mistake when it came time to clean said contraptions. My Dad was excited to show us his perfect solution. He explained that his years of searching for great, simple trail coffee had led him to the GSI Java Drip. Watching him simply throw paper filters away after breakfast every morning had us convinced. We hit the road and within several hours the heat had us looking forward to camping high in the Abajo Mtns. Fresh rain two days prior had left the Comb Wash road and empty canvas. There were many interesting tracks in the road and somewhere near Fish Creek we came across some bear tracks.
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Comb Wash
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Clearing a path!
After reading about the possible landslide on Comb Ridge, we had decided to try a trail that appeared on some of our maps to climb out the north end of Comb Wash. We searched for a while and had to backtrack from several dead ends. A road grader had repaired the main road recently and left a large windrow on both sides of the road. We soon realized the windrows were blocking the spur roads. After turning back we found the road we were looking for but it was overgrown and obviously rarely used. Experience reminded us not to waste too much fuel chasing 'possible' routes. We decided to drive back to Comb Ridge trail and see for ourselves if the reported Posey's Switchback landslide had been cleared. Seeing the grader work gave us hope that the road had been repaired however, immediately after beginning the climb out of Comb Wash the road condition deteriorated drastically. I had promised my Dad the trails we were going on were not going to be that difficult. This road was so washed out I was seriously worried that my Dad was not going to want to continue. About 10 minutes into the climb I reached the landslide. Dad and Chris arrived shortly after and Dad made it clear he was not looking forward to driving back down. The landslide was not too impressive so Chris and I immediately set off on foot up the road. We thought that possibly a larger slide was further ahead. After hiking up about 15min. we couldn't find any evidence of road damage above so we turned around. The road actually improved after the slide debris. After returning to the convoy and brief deliberation, we decided to try and move the boulders blocking the trail. Chris grabbed his 4' pry bar and my dad came back with a Come-a-long and a ratchet strap. We used the largest boulder as an anchor for the rig and simply began dragging the debris out of the way.The pry bar made short work of the smaller boulders. Within half an hour we had cleared a path. My dad was ecstatic. "We just opened this road!" he exclaimed. "Everyone else turned around but we didn't, this is awesome!". The true reward from that brief workout was not continuing on but witnessing my Dad's reaction to our adventure beginning to reveal itself.
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The rest of the climb was uneventful yet still technical enough to require attention in our vehicles. A brief lunch was enjoyed at the top and my dad was immediately sold on roofrack awnings. Shade in the desert is a luxury Chris and I are willing to haul around on our roofracks. Our goal for the afternoon was to find a camp in the Abajo's close to the Beef Basin turn off. We passed the Gooseberry Guard station around 6pm and began looking for a campsite. The elk hunt was under way and any sites large enough for 3 expedition prepped SUV's were already accompanied by large toy hauler RV's. We ran into the Guard Station host who was out for a walk and he pointed us in the direction of his favorite sites. Excitedly we searched out his recommendations only to find every single one occupied. After an hour searching we turned south and found an excellent site not far from the Guard Station. We quickly cleared large Ponderosa pine cones from suitable tent placements and dinner was a 'fend for yourself' affair. Temps dropped quickly after sunset and my Dad's nifty travel thermometer recorded a night low of 45F if I remember right.
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Camp #2
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Days 3 & 4 to come......
 
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Howski

Well-known member
Looking forward to the next two days of the report. Love your Disco, great looking rig
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Great writeup and I like the pics...
Big thanks for clearing the trail, makes a huge difference for the soft roader folks that come along, not to mention our land manager folks find it easier to close than repair a trail.
 

pcut

Adventurer
Great write up. Doing that Posey's road out of Comb Wash in my wife's stock BMW X5 a few years back led us to a built 100 Series Land Cruiser and all the cool people and information on this killer website.
 

Basinben

New member
Day 3

Day #3:

We woke very early by the sound of ATV’s. Hunters were trying to get an early start and by 4am we began to hear them travel up and down the main road. Comb Wash and the Abajo’s were amazing but we were excited to get further away from civilization. It was a cold morning but the combination of campfire; coffee, eggs, and bacon were enough motivation to get us moving. It wasn’t long before we were descending into Beef Basin.

The descent into Beef Basin was much quicker than my previous trip. Heavy machinery had ground down all the rough spots in the road. Just before reaching the meadows of Beef Basin we passed the only vehicle we would see the entire day. An overland built JK Unlimited with government license plates. About an hour into the day I began to hear a knocking sound coming from under the rear load space. I’d heard this sound in the past and knew it was my rear shocks coming loose. While I tightened my shocks Chris and Dad looked over the maps. We had made such good time on the descent we would drive the Beef Basin loop before lunch.

Beef Basin & Ruin Park:
We decided to travel the loop counter-clockwise. A short ways into the loop I started hearing the knocking again. I crawled underneath and got a full turn out of the upper shock nuts again. My dad broke out his ‘spares’ box and found 2 half inch nuts. I used these as locknuts for the locknuts and made it the rest of the trip without an issue.
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Indian ruins were everywhere and we stopped to check out probably half a dozen sites. It’s amazing that these dwellings are so well preserved. The remoteness must be a strong deterrent for vandalizers. We soon realized that we could easily spend an entire day investigating ruins and decided to cover some ground. The last couple miles of the loop were particularly fun. The road made multiple dry creek crossings. Due to a recent storm, the road was completely washed out at every crossing. Being the first ones to drive the road since the storm meant we were lucky enough to break trail. I would approach the bank slowly until it would break under the front tires. The sand would slough into a decent ramp and allow me to drop in. Luckily the sand in the wash was fairly firm (I’ve heard several Beef Basin quick-sand horror stories). The opposite side of the wash had a nice ledge as well. Several times I had to nudge the bank to knock down enough sand to make an exit ramp. Once the bank was knocked down it was just a matter of using enough throttle to launch our trucks up the bank without digging a hole. This breaking trail theme was getting addicting.

After completing the loop we quickly made our way to ruin park for lunch. We took a short spur trail to a ruin easily visible from the main route. Junipers surrounding the ruin provided perfect shade for lawn chairs, table and lunch. While taking in the view during lunch, I couldn’t help but wonder how few people have taken in this view since the ruin’s last occupants. Conversation quickly focused on Bobby’s Hole and what we might encounter beyond there.
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Basinben

New member
Day 3 Continued

Bobby’s Hole to Devil’s Kitchen:
Shortly after lunch we arrived at Bobby’s Hole. Our previous experience had taught us to walk down the entire descent to verify that the road was actually intact enough for vehicle travel. I made it halfway down last time before realizing the road was severely washed out, making it impossible to continue on. It ended up taking a good hour just to get my Rover back out.

The condition of Bobby’s Hole this time was much better however; it was still in very poor condition due to the recent rain showers. The road was full of large (basketball size) loose rocks and a very deep rut ran down one side of the road and half way down crossed to the other side of the road. My Dad was concerned with his lack of ground clearance and we were all a bit concerned about crossing the huge rut. Several minutes were spent moving the largest rocks and using them to fill in our decided crossing point in the rut. The Rover descended first and with excellent directions made down without incident. The road was so loose it took several attempts to coax the vehicles in the desired directions but by the time we had all made it to the bottom we had created a decent firm path. We felt confident that if necessary we could climb back out.
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A real sense of adventure was gripping us with full effect now as none of us had ever traveled beyond this point. This is the point where you get to enjoy the satisfaction of knowing your hard work paid off. All 3 of us are mechanics and we do all our own work to our vehicles. Dad fabricated all of his skid plates and modified his Range Rover Safety Devices roof rack to fit the FJ. He also fabricated custom aluminum bridging ramps and chromoly ‘pull-pal’ type anchors. Chris and I are both driving vehicles with over 260,000 miles on the odometer. The trucks are our hobby, adventure is our passion. Exploring the Canyon country with two of my best friends in capable yet not overbuilt iconic 4x4’s is my definition of an epic adventure!

The two-track ahead beckoned us and it appeared that we would make it to Devil’s Kitchen campground quickly. However, one track or the other was often heavily eroded to the point that careful progress was required. My inclinometer regularly measure 25 degrees and reached 30 on several occasions. Chris’ gauge ranged from 20-25 degrees. With no sway-bars and 150 lbs. on my roof-rack I think I leaned a little further than the Toyotas. Pin striping was unavoidable as both sides and the middle of the road were heavily brushed (I only mention this to warn others; I love pin-striping!).
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Between sections of two-track were very enjoyable rocky sections that occasionally required a spotter. One particular section dropped off a very large ledge. Chris and Dad were concerned for their rear bumpers and tire carriers so Dad got out the custom aluminum ramps. Within minutes the Toyotas were off the ledge with nary a scratch. Dad was excited to have put the ramps to good use and to see that they easily held the weight of the loaded trucks.
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It was beginning to be that part of the evening when you want to find somewhere to camp. We soon came across the Horsehoof and Bobby Jo campgrounds. These sites had amazing views and were located a perfect distance from our previous night stay in the Abajos. If I were to do this trip again I would book permits for one of these sites. A quick glance at the map revealed we still had a ways to go before reaching our permit site in the Devil’s Kitchen.

Shortly after passing Horsehoof and Bobby Jo, I heard a very odd noise under the Rover. I can only describe it as the sound of keys being shaken in a tin can. I immediately stopped and began investigating the noise. When Dad and Chris caught up I informed them that I think I just heard something fall of the Rover. They thought I was crazy but entertained my paranoia by helping me search the sand behind the truck. Just as they had convinced me I was hearing things I stumbled upon a shiny pin in the sand. It was the front bread pad guide pin from my new caliper! The new caliper guide pins came with cotter ‘keys’ instead of ‘pins’ (physically have to fold the separated ends with pliers). The heavy brush between the two-track must have dislodged the cotter key. I always carry a handful of random cotter pins in my spares box and within 15 minutes I was mobile again. Big thanks to my Dad for having a heavy duty tarp readily available. We just threw it down under the truck so I didn’t have to lay in the thistle and sand to replace the pin. We reached the Elephant Hill loop trail about the time headlamps became necessary for navigation. No matter how many or fancy your auxiliary lights, it seems they will never shine quite as high, low or to side as you want. Funny. Progress was slow but eventually we made it to our designated site and quickly began preparing our dinners.

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We camped in site #1 and it would be great for one vehicle. The camping area was a little cramped for 3 but it was located underneath an incredible overhanging sandstone boulder. My Dad was thoroughly entertaining as he explained that he was eating SPAM for dinner. Apparently, when he came across it in the store he realized he’d never tried it. He decided it might be excellent when combined with the Edward Abbey staple of ‘beans & bacon’. Shortly after dinner Dad returned from the NPS pit toilet and declared it to be the most dangerous pit toilet in the world. While sitting on the throne he counted no less than 12 enormous black widow spiders lurking the light of his headlamp. Now that he had the heebee-geebee’s he was inspecting everything for black widows. It just so happened that the overhanging rock we were camped under had several large black widow residents of its own. How Dad managed to sleep on the ground under the rock that night I have no idea. Chris slept in the cruiser and I slept under the stars on my Roll-a-cot. A noisy screech owl paid us a brief visit and I woke once to the call of a lone coyote. The show of stars beckoned me to shun a good night’s sleep. A perfect end to a perfect day.
 

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