Matthewp's Off-Road Camper Design (Recommendations and Critiques Requested!).

jim65wagon

Well-known member

Lets puzzle this out, what I see on this drawing is a line 3" below the door sill. I believe that line represents the floor of the cabin. The frontal drawing shows the floor line being 3'10" from the roof (46") subtracting a few inches for material and 4" for mattress still nets about 40" of headroom. If you put a 4-6" mattress in there it will just come above (1-3")the sill of the door where it needs to be. Skersfan, please show me what you are seeing (and what I am missing?) that would seat the mattress to the middle of the door and 26" of headroom?

Yes there will be some wear to the mattress as sitting on the edge is going to compress the foam against the doorsill......of course, Bob, being retired gets to go camping every weekend....this is super-normal wear and tear and makes the rest of us envious!;) (ooh, wish I had a green envy smilie!) Maybe try a different type of mattress material Bob?
 

skersfan

Supporting Sponsor
I see where I made my mistake, I missed the 5.2 overall inside heigth, I was thinking 3.9 and it just did not add up. Sorry.

Also a larger door than standard was mentioned, that is where I got the center of the door.

Jim using top of the line Restava memory foam mattress. I have started being sure the comforter is over the edge at all times. And not retired, still have a day job until the end of October, but have worked continously to make sure what I am building will last a lifetime.

I live in the mountains and it is just out the door to many camping areas, unfortunately on the south side of the freeway here, there isn't much serious off roading, need to go to Big Bear or Johnson Valley,, Anza Borego.

It appears the trailer will have standard road tires. That would explain the narrow fenders.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
I live in the mountains and it is just out the door to many camping areas, unfortunately on the south side of the freeway here, there isn't much serious off roading, need to go to Big Bear or Johnson Valley,, Anza Borego.

It appears the trailer will have standard road tires. That would explain the narrow fenders.
Very jealous of your escapability, there, since I'm not a serious off-roader (or serious anything for that matter) I'd be good with camping outside my door. Our summer was really screwed up and our weekends got taken up too fast with other projects and places to be. Years past we were doing a nearly every weekend trip to the mountains here (4-6 hour drive) camping in tents though.

As for the tires I think they are partially inset under the trailer, giving the appearance of a really narrow fender. I think he can fit whatever will be on his TV (up to say an 11" wide tire).

What do you say Matthew, how are we doing?
 

matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
1) If you knock out the lower 45* at the front (just bring that bit straight down) it will give the basement more space and you can make a longer access door to make the storage space, well, more accessible
I have no real idea why I did that apart from asthetics. It was originally to give the front of the trailer a little protection from hitting trail brush, etc. but I see that the frame will be under most of it anyway. I think you have a good idea!

2)Is there going to be some sort of horizontal electrical chase to hide and access your planned wiring. The vertical channel pictured looks fine for running wires but it could be a pain to wire anything. Would it be more efficient to make the bulkhead in a single piece and just use some sort of conduit to run the wires up to a horizontal chase where the fuse block and majority of the wiring would be run? I do wish our chase was actually just a little taller, my fat hands don't work well in tight spaces and some of the wiring was quite the PITA to hook up.
Being as I have the vertical channel that gives me essentially a double wall, the majority of the wall on the sleeper side will be access panels. I figure that will still hide and protect the wiring but give me reasonable access.

3)There looks to be an empty/unused space under the fridge and drawers at the galley. Intentional? Is there some use or access for this?
I have NO freaking idea what to do with that! It's basically 6" deep and I don't know if it would be worth putting another side-door access to use it (or maybe a door on the back angle now that I think about it).

4)Are you doing an underbed panel to access the water tank and battery? If so you might consider putting the battery ahead of the tank, again easier to wire the thing up and switch batteries if needed.
I will probably shift the tank and batteries just slightly forward so I can have a drop down access panel from the sleeper floor (Yes, remembering your warning about access areas under the bed, but I hope I won't need to access the batteries or water tank that much!). I wanted to keep the batteries in the back just to keep as much of the electrical stuff together, does that sound reasonable?

5)I recommend doing a lifesize mockup of the cabin layout in cardboard. Throw a 4-6 inch foam pad on the floor and try it out. Sit in it, lie down, roll over, change your clothes, etc. This will give you a good idea if you will have the headroom you need (and the footroom under the cabinets) Remember, that cushy mattress will take up a lot of headroom.
I will DEFINITELY do that! What if I basically cardboard mockup the sides and roof (with the mattress in there) as soon as I have the frame done to verify there is enough room?

6)and this is a general camper(and I think I know the answers) question. Why does everyone want to carry their gas cans on their camper? It has no engine, it doesn't need gas......I figure if I carry the spare can in (or on) the tow vehicle it will be where it is needed, when it is needed.
For me, it's basically convenience of room. If I put it on the Jeep, It would have to go on the roof, therefore being a little high up and harder to get. If I had a pick-up like yours, you bet I would have the fuel on the TV,

I do wonder about your access into the cabin. Looks like the bottom on the door opening will be about three feet off the ground. Depending on your height (more importnaly the height of she-who-must-be-obeyed), it might be awkward to get in and out of the cabin, at least without a small step outside.
The bottom section of the frame has side-"steps" that will be covered in expanded metal or plate. That still puts it 1' 10" off the ground and Kristy already informed me, If I can build the whole trailer, I can build a step for her and the dog!

Jim using top of the line Restava memory foam mattress. I have started being sure the comforter is over the edge at all times. And not retired, still have a day job until the end of October, but have worked continously to make sure what I am building will last a lifetime.

I live in the mountains and it is just out the door to many camping areas, unfortunately on the south side of the freeway here, there isn't much serious off roading, need to go to Big Bear or Johnson Valley,, Anza Borego.
Thanks for the note about mattress wear... And thanks for naming your brand. I have been looking for mattresses and they look to be worth the extra bucks!

I left Fort Irwin north of Barstow last year and still miss it! I'm jealous you have access to those areas!

It appears the trailer will have standard road tires. That would explain the narrow fenders.

As for the tires I think they are partially inset under the trailer, giving the appearance of a really narrow fender. I think he can fit whatever will be on his TV (up to say an 11" wide tire).
The wheels ARE going to be partially inset. I have an off-road trailer with the spring and axle package (and wheels/tires to match the TV) I want to use, that will be transplanted from the old trailer to the new one. I like the track behind the jeep but still wanted the width in the sleeping area. It seemed to work out nicely to do the wheel wells that way thanks to the basement storage, and they'll still give me (realistically) 44" width for the water tank. I will DEFINITELY be having steel/aluminum full wheel wells to protect anything in the trailer.

I hope that sounds reasonable to you gentlemen and thank you very much for the input! You guys are great!
 
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stomperxj

Explorer
..... and Stomper XJ who had the exact shape I was looking for. I also have to thank each of them profusely for great build threads to walk a novice like me through the process. For anyone interested in building a "sleep-in" trailer, please take a gander: Jim & Elizabeth's Crowswing and Stomper's Sawtooth XL.


Matthewp-

Thanks for the nice comments on my trailer. Glad I could be of help and inspiration for you. I do have a couple observations for you....

Your door height is going to be too high. I am about 5'-10" and the bottom of my doors are about 26" . It looks like yours are at 30"+. In my opinion you are going to have a hard time getting into your cabin. That will be compounded by the smaller doors as well. My doors are 26x32 roughly and they seem tight at times...

Also on your hatch sealing.... I would do some sort of setup like Mark did on his Little Swiss teardrop and create a channel:

480_galley63a.jpg



Feel free to ask me any questions via PM. I'd be happy to help.

Looks like a great start Matthew-

Jess
 

DGarman

What could go wrong?
I have nothing to add, except this:

Excellent drafting work!
In this age of SolidWorks and such, it's refreshing to see someone that can still use a board and T-square.

Good job!
Dennis
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
Your door height is going to be too high. I am about 5'-10" and the bottom of my doors are about 26" . It looks like yours are at 30"+. In my opinion you are going to have a hard time getting into your cabin. That will be compounded by the smaller doors as well. My doors are 26x32 roughly and they seem tight at times...

We had similar comments about door height on our trailer build. The basement storage adds a lot of extra height to the whole trailer. Our door is 40" off the ground, but the running board is only 20" off the ground. It's a high step to get on the running board, but it works out al right. For those times we are feeling tired and don't (or can't step that high) we bring along these (one for each side) pieces of Harbor Freight goodness. The Aluminum StepStool. Folds up and stores in the basement, and is the perfect height for that first step.
759102927.jpg


We also added grab bars to the outer wall of the trailer by the doors to give us a sturdy hand up if needed. Here's a quick photo to show the height of the stool in relation to the running board and door. You can also see the grab bar to the left of the door. The running boards are pretty important to have when you do the basement storage, they give you that "leg up" you'll need to get into your camper.

...
 

matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
Also on your hatch sealing.... I would do some sort of setup like Mark did on his Little Swiss teardrop and create a channel:

480_galley63a.jpg



Feel free to ask me any questions via PM. I'd be happy to help.

Looks like a great start Matthew-

Jess
Is that channel on the hatch or the trailer body itself?

We had similar comments about door height on our trailer build. The basement storage adds a lot of extra height to the whole trailer. Our door is 40" off the ground, but the running board is only 20" off the ground. It's a high step to get on the running board, but it works out al right. For those times we are feeling tired and don't (or can't step that high) we bring along these (one for each side) pieces of Harbor Freight goodness. The Aluminum StepStool. Folds up and stores in the basement, and is the perfect height for that first step.
759102927.jpg


We also added grab bars to the outer wall of the trailer by the doors to give us a sturdy hand up if needed. Here's a quick photo to show the height of the stool in relation to the running board and door. You can also see the grab bar to the left of the door. The running boards are pretty important to have when you do the basement storage, they give you that "leg up" you'll need to get into your camper.

Jim, those little steps look perfect! I will also go with grab bars by the doors also!

Thanks again guys!
 

matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
I like drawing with pencils to this day. Looks like a nice design but what will it weigh?

Thank you for the compliment!

I was aiming for about 1500# but am realistically going to be closer to 2000#, which is still not a problem for my Jeep. The rolling frame tipped the scales at just over 700# by itself, and I've also decided to add a second battery.

Please see the link in my signature for the build thread if you're interested in seeing the theory become reality.
 

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