Not on my Montero but I figured I'd tap into the brains here and see what happens. I am installing new MOOG ball joints on a Volvo and they are the type that do not take a castle nut. The nuts that came with them have what look like messed up threads on them but they both had it and they are "struck" in 3 different places to smash the threads a little bit on the very last round of threads. I think this is some type of thread locking system or something. It looks intentional. Anyway, I'm trying to tighten them up and once the stud got into that part of the nut, it just spins.......not sure how to tighten it. Any ideas?
MOOG ball joints....
- Thread starter Salonika
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Yes, the nuts are likely intentionally formed like that. It's one way to create a lock nut.
Some have nylon, for example, that causes friction in an attempt to keep the nut from loosening but those can still back off and heat is an issue. The ones you have are essentially mechanically cross threading themselves at the end which, if you've ever done that unintentionally, know is an outstanding way to lock a nut on a bolt.
Since the ball joint shaft itself and its threads are hardened the nut is probably going to distort slightly easier (or at least no easier) so it probably won't ruin the ball joint should you ever have to back it off. The nut itself likely cannot be reused as a locking nut, though. If it does come off without ruining the shafts thread it's own threads will no longer have the same locking resistance and will have essentially been reformed as though you ran a tap through it. It might still work to lock against vibration for a non-critical use but for something like a ball joint it's one-and-done.
They are almost always identified as self locking in some way. Dimples in a crown, slots, dimpled on the faces, etc.
Some have nylon, for example, that causes friction in an attempt to keep the nut from loosening but those can still back off and heat is an issue. The ones you have are essentially mechanically cross threading themselves at the end which, if you've ever done that unintentionally, know is an outstanding way to lock a nut on a bolt.
Since the ball joint shaft itself and its threads are hardened the nut is probably going to distort slightly easier (or at least no easier) so it probably won't ruin the ball joint should you ever have to back it off. The nut itself likely cannot be reused as a locking nut, though. If it does come off without ruining the shafts thread it's own threads will no longer have the same locking resistance and will have essentially been reformed as though you ran a tap through it. It might still work to lock against vibration for a non-critical use but for something like a ball joint it's one-and-done.
They are almost always identified as self locking in some way. Dimples in a crown, slots, dimpled on the faces, etc.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Is it spinning even with the ball joint in the spindle? There should be enough friction to keep it from spinning. You might have to put a jack under the arm and force the spindle up slightly to seat it slightly. Once it starts seating it will be solid. It takes (as you probably know) a ton of force with a ball joint separator to get the tapered fit to undo.
Yes. It is in the spindle and I still cant overcome it. The end of the stud appeared to have a allen head in it so I tried putting one in there and hand turning with a wrench but nope.....the inside of the stud that I thought was an allen head just stripped.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
That is definitely a self locker, the 3 dimpled spots are intentional to lock the thread.
I put the ball joint in the spindle and maybe try to use a big C-clamp to get it seated. You don't want that nut to come off easily so getting it started is necessarily a major PITA.
