Multi task build help PLS!!

[Rovertrader]

Okay, I have been wheeling for near 40 years, and have a couple small children, multi vehicles, etc. The goal is to simplify, and need some help to answer a few dilemas. I bought a '07 Dodge PW, and love it. I had planned to pull the bed, and go flatbed with a removable camper. However, got distracted and kept the bed, but added a Flip-pak, which I also love. But, I have a F-150 for DD/chores/etc and all the Rovers for fun stuff- wheeling, exploring, etc. In an effort to condense the fleet so to speak, and have more time for traveling/camping/exploring, I want to finish out the PW. I also need to add, we just bought a Coleman Evo 3 for a base camp, and will be selling off the KKs.
So here is my desire: build a flatbed, have a base/walls built to still utilize the flippac that is removable from the truck as a unit. The key here is to have the built ins attached to said wall system so it lifts off in tact, with or without a seperate floor in the 'camper'. I can obviously remove the Flippac now and have the standard factory p/u bed remain- but, the built-ins are the issue. Simple built ins, like perimeter seating that converts to a second bed, a table, Engel, dual battery system, etc.
The overall goal is to have the Evo3 as a base camp and the flippac on board so we can wonder a bigger radius without returning each night- a family of 4. And, make the truck functional daily, allowing the deletion of the F-150 from the fold.

Thoughts/suggestions??

 

[OTR]

Why not just add a pup-up truck camper? They come out during the week for daily driving and then add for the weekend stuff. If you don't like the layout of them, you could buy a shell model and configure the interior to your liking. I believe that flatbeds get get heavy fast unless they are made out of alum.

 

[ntsqd]

How would you lift off the Flip-pac & lower wall assembly? That might dictate how it goes together.

If you're going to pull it in pieces I wouldn't bother with a floor because that will be just one more large part to store.

If you're going to lift it with something like camper jacks or even a forklift, then I'd include a floor and a bit of structure under the floor.

Flatbeds don't have to be heavy, that's just the easiest way to build them. Going to a flatbed opens up some opportunity to stow permanent things under the bed. Propane tank(s), water tank(s), storage box(es), camper battery(ies), etc. at the expense of having the bed surface much higher. If you can do it, consider building fender wells into the bed so that the working bed surface can be down between the rear tires instead of well above them.

Consider how the camp-structure is going to fit onto the flatbed and attach to it. I can see perhaps using stake bed pockets to index the camper in place. On a recent build I floated the idea of using two removable trailer hitch balls at opposite corners of the bed, and then building into the box structure a pair of receiver tubes. A round tube at one end that fits fairly tight on a ball, and on the other end a rectangular tube that only fits tight in the direction of rotation. This is a common tooling plate technique. The first ball locates in the X and Y directions and the second ball only resists rotation. Trying to make both balls do X-Y location results in something that either doesn't work w/o being really sloppy or won't go together and come apart easily.

Then you'd just some internal or external tie-downs to the flatbed's frame. Forged eyelet turnbuckles or some sort of very large De-Sta-Co Clamp-like over-center apparatus at each corner. Even 4 chain binders would work if the attaching points are designed for them.

 

[Regcabguy]

Why not just add a pup-up truck camper? They come out during the week for daily driving and then add for the weekend stuff. If you don't like the layout of them, you could buy a shell model and configure the interior to your liking. I believe that flatbeds get get heavy fast unless they are made out of alum.

Ditto on that. Lots of bargains in Craigslist.

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks for the replies. I have the popup feature in the Flippac- love the 7+ feet of headroom, but the big issue is after building in the interior, it won't be a quick lift off. I am thinking attach the 'new' sides to the flippac, add a floor, do the built ins, and remove via jacks. I have built a flatbed before, and am considering Al this time 'round. I also agree with the wheelwells on the flatbed to facilitate a lower deck height, as well as the permanent attachment of boxes, etc underneath- albeit not too low to hurt the breakover angle. In the end, I end up with more capacity and flexibility with the flatbed, and a nice camper of light weight and low cog. All very important. I just don't see a way to keep the stock bed with the Flippac AND have the interior complete... except as a dedicated camper rig.
Now, the question is- is it worth all the time and dollars to do, or just finish out the Dodge as is w/ Flippac, and keep the 150? It is extemely difficult to have a one horse show, and do all things decently. The PW is the right platform I am convinced, but which build philosiphy?

 

[ntsqd]

I suspect that when you weigh the aluminum cost vs. the weight savings that it will be some pretty expensive weight loss.

As memory serves the PW is a 3/4t? So it starts out with more payload capacity than the F-150, and what ever the flatbed is made from, it will pretty much weigh the same on either truck (assuming that the F would get a flatbed if kept).

How do the averaged, real world mileages compare? If the F is enough better at that it might pay for it's keep.

Without building a flatbed I can see how it might be done. Imagine the old classic bed insert kits, complete with shaggy carpet. What if you built something similar (less the shaggy carpet?), gave it structure and brought it up over the bed gunnels. Attach the Flip-pac to the insert, then anchor them both to the bed. Pop the anchors loose and lift the insert/Flip-pac assembly out as, well, an assembly.

 

[Rovertrader]

the assembly concept has merit, albeit not easy to put into practice. My problem is a time constraint- I don't want to take half a day for the transition.
On the other hand, the milage is a consideration. And to be clear- the PW is a keeper, and yes 3/4, while the 150 is a runabout do all that MAY be eliminated. The 150 is 2wd and gets high teens to 20mpg, while the PW strives to be above 13mpg.
In the end, while expensive to keep both, there is some merit to keeping miles off the PW- mine is the more nimble '07 Quad Cab vs. the current longer wb Crewcab. We'll see- amazing the amount of wasted thought time on vehicles....