R33F
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The beer is tempting!
My 1 Gen 4Runner Build
- Thread starter R33F
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The beer is tempting!
R33F
New member
Hi austintaco,
Not sure what length springs are on there it was all done by the PO, They just say OME Darkar on them, is there some type of serial number I can look for to determine what size etc... they are? It rubs just under regular load, just turning into a parking space at the market. I can post a picture of where it's rubbing and maybe that will help... also a pic of the spring placement. I'm new to all this stuff.
Thanks
Greg
R33F
New member
I believe so, there are no blocks or anything, I'm going to try and get a serial number off those springs and take some photo's of the placement.
I'll let you know, it was all done by the PO.
Greg
R33F
New member
Trying to make a decision, I took the truck to get the brakes done and the guy said when he put it on the lift, the front drive shaft separated. I found a local guy with a square shaft, I did some research and found out that these are very strong. Downside is vibrations after 45 mph. I can see myself going faster than that in 4 wheel drive. What is your opinions? Should I just go with the square driveline or lengthen the stock one? Rock Crawling guys swear by these things. In 2wd the shaft doesn't spin at all.
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A few comments, since I've owned more 22re solid axle minis than one man should, including pickups and 4Runners, from dedicated trail rigs to a bone stock and super clean 85 xtra cab...
The OME springs are made for stock length shackles. Those aren't stock length shackles. A longer length spring or shorter shackle is in order. Mounts and shackle hangers on the frame are in stock location and unmodified, which is a good place to be. No need to go moving hangers forward and modifying a bunch of stuff, other than for a dedicated crawler.
It's been setup with crossover steering, aftermarket front shock hoops, and and IFS steering box. Careful inspection of the installer's welds and methods are in order. The crossover steering will limit how low you can go with springs and lift. Typically no lower than 3" without a flat pitman arm.
Your steering rub is likely due to a collapsed steering stop on the axle tube if they weren't filled or reinforced with the crossover steering. Or missing or inappropriately adjusted bolts on the knuckle.
Square tube drivelines are for dedicated crawlers that never see 4wd on the street, and suck for DD rigs. They're strong and great for trucks which the driveshaft regularly gets beat across rocks on the trail. Thin walled round tubes collapse under this type of abuse. Get a long spline yolk from a toyota supplier and have a local shop install and balance it on the round shaft you have.
You can't really run much more backspace than stock wheels without a spacer. Spacers suck. Taco, 80 series LC, and IFS mini wheels fall into the category of too much BS. There may be a foreign market 16 steelie with 3.5" backspacing which will work. I ran some tube type 16" split steelies from a BJ45 for a short time and they worked great. Ditched them for tubeless 15s the first chance I got.
Lookup online how to swap the upper intake plenum and throttle body assembly from an 89-95, then do it. The plenum on the pre-89 22re has a bend and rather large blockage behind the throttle plate inside the plenum, and the cold start, throttle linkage, and idle system are all more complicated and less reliable than the later style.
Get new OEM Toyota positive and negative battery cables from an 88 model, from an online Toyota parts dealer.
Do the timing chain, and water pump. With Japanese OSK timing kit and a japanese (OEM Toyota or GMB) water pump. It's the highest quality aftermarket kit you can get. When you do it, get an OEM Toyota O-ring for the oil pump to timing cover seal, it's the only one that fits properly and isn't a royal PITA to get on right.
ALWAYS adjust the TPS with a feeler gauge and OHM meter according to the Factory Service Manual before adjusting the ignition timing.
For most things, like engine and electrical, ONLY use OEM Toyota parts. This includes starters and alternators.
Everything above is my opinion, your mileage may vary.
The OME springs are made for stock length shackles. Those aren't stock length shackles. A longer length spring or shorter shackle is in order. Mounts and shackle hangers on the frame are in stock location and unmodified, which is a good place to be. No need to go moving hangers forward and modifying a bunch of stuff, other than for a dedicated crawler.
It's been setup with crossover steering, aftermarket front shock hoops, and and IFS steering box. Careful inspection of the installer's welds and methods are in order. The crossover steering will limit how low you can go with springs and lift. Typically no lower than 3" without a flat pitman arm.
Your steering rub is likely due to a collapsed steering stop on the axle tube if they weren't filled or reinforced with the crossover steering. Or missing or inappropriately adjusted bolts on the knuckle.
Square tube drivelines are for dedicated crawlers that never see 4wd on the street, and suck for DD rigs. They're strong and great for trucks which the driveshaft regularly gets beat across rocks on the trail. Thin walled round tubes collapse under this type of abuse. Get a long spline yolk from a toyota supplier and have a local shop install and balance it on the round shaft you have.
You can't really run much more backspace than stock wheels without a spacer. Spacers suck. Taco, 80 series LC, and IFS mini wheels fall into the category of too much BS. There may be a foreign market 16 steelie with 3.5" backspacing which will work. I ran some tube type 16" split steelies from a BJ45 for a short time and they worked great. Ditched them for tubeless 15s the first chance I got.
Lookup online how to swap the upper intake plenum and throttle body assembly from an 89-95, then do it. The plenum on the pre-89 22re has a bend and rather large blockage behind the throttle plate inside the plenum, and the cold start, throttle linkage, and idle system are all more complicated and less reliable than the later style.
Get new OEM Toyota positive and negative battery cables from an 88 model, from an online Toyota parts dealer.
Do the timing chain, and water pump. With Japanese OSK timing kit and a japanese (OEM Toyota or GMB) water pump. It's the highest quality aftermarket kit you can get. When you do it, get an OEM Toyota O-ring for the oil pump to timing cover seal, it's the only one that fits properly and isn't a royal PITA to get on right.
ALWAYS adjust the TPS with a feeler gauge and OHM meter according to the Factory Service Manual before adjusting the ignition timing.
For most things, like engine and electrical, ONLY use OEM Toyota parts. This includes starters and alternators.
Everything above is my opinion, your mileage may vary.