My Northern Ozarks Adventure - May 2015 (KY-IL-MO-AR)

Airmapper

Inactive Member
This is a report on my 4 day trip to the Northern Ozarks this past May. It was not a camping trip, more of a scouting run as I was traveling relatively fast (averaging about 250 miles a day) considering I made a LOT of stops to keep the days interesting and try to really see the area instead of drive by it.

Day 1:

Leaving Kentucky was mostly a run for the border, while I'm not well traveled outside the state, but I am well traveled out to Paducah, so nothing new to see until I hit the Mississippi River.

After interstate travel I eventually made it back to my preferred state highway 2 lane with less hustle and nice scenery. I approached the river town of Wickliffe. Now each town has it's own aura about it, this one has an odor. Seeing the town come into view on my navigation screens, I was hit with an odor I can only describe as the olfactory equivalent of a punch to the face. Looking to my right an industrial building appeared, with a sign that read: "FISH MARKET" With the pungent odor explained, I promptly dropped the windows to evacuate the stench as soon as clear air was found, which fortunately was only a mile or so.

Needless to say I wasn't ready for lunch at that point, but it was about time to get out of the vehicle for a bit. I stopped at the Wickliffe Mounds archeological site, a small place run by the Kentucky State Park system. A small entrance fee and you could browse a large building covering the dig site with artifacts from the Native American village that occupied the site.

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After seeing all there was to see at the mounds, a quick lunch on the picnic tables and I'm off to the next destination just across the river in Cairo, IL. A trip across one bridge hopped the Ohio river, then I pulled into a park overlooking the confluence where the Mississippi River joins the Ohio, a great confluence of 2 massive rivers, the Mississippi mot even being "mighty" until this point. The site has great importance in history, being used in the civil war, and by Louis and Clark on their Expedition west.

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Of my whole 4 day itinerary, Cairo had my most apprehensive concern for my safe passage. Normally, one can cross the Mississippi into Missouri via a less than 1 mile drive from the confluence, but construction sent me into downtown Cairo to find another bridge to cross. I encourage anyone to look this city up, it has a dismal and violent history of racial tension, decay, and a population dive that makes it the equivalent of a modern ghost town. The online descriptions of this sad city did it justice. Abandonment is rampant, but oddly contrasted by well groomed and large historic buildings for local government. Parts of it are beautiful, and the rest is creepily vacant and overgrown. While a creepy town, it was a sight to see and I won't soon forget it.

Unfortunately, another interstate was ahead of me, but within a few miles I'm crossing the Mississippi River for the first time in my life. I've wet my hands in the Mississippi once before in Grand Tower, Illinois, but never set foot west of it. While not all that important to most, it was an exciting moment for me to finally be headed into completely new country. The land turned flat as a table, and I actually was glad I had planned this part of the journey on a fast highway, I set the cruise on 70 and watched the miles of flat expanse fly by all around me.

A while later it was time for another stop. Fuel was starting to run low, I topped off at a unique little store with a stuffed Black bear in the entrance, then a few miles down the road I had planned to stop at Pinewoods Lake. I occasionally find Geocaches, Missouri was a new state, and while I get annoyed trying to find them near busy places, this park was an ideal spot for me to take the time to hunt around in the woods for a box for a few minutes. It was mostly vacant bar one local fisherman. He approached returning to his vehicle, and exchanging hello's I found out he was very friendly and talkative. I bet we talked for 20 minutes or so about local sights, fishing and hunting in the area, and he recommended a few places to see I wish I would have had more time to deviate from my route and explore.

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Back on the road, the next planned stop was a place that I knew was going to be interesting from the photos, but when I stepped out of the truck and seen it in person, I was blown away. Big Spring near Van Buren, MO was intended to be a leg stretch stop, but the beauty and uniqueness of the place had me stuck there for a few hours. I'd never seen so much water springing out of the rock in one place. The stonework in the trails was amazing. My camera got a workout but photos don't do the place justice.

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After much reluctance, I left the spring but did take a bit of time to search around the rest of the park, finding this awesome view of the current river, with the stream from the springs joining it.

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So back underway, I finally left the pavement. I had tried my best to make sure part of every day would be spent on at very least gravel. I stopped for a quick shot of my "cockpit."

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After this the rest of the day was making a run for Willow Springs, MO, where I had an awesome dinner at a restaurant, and spent the night in a hotel. Camping would have been wonderful, but that is Phase 2 of my plan to get out more. Getting out more is Phase 1. :smiley_drive:
 

Airmapper

Inactive Member
Day 2 was mostly dedicated to one stop, a member of my family along for the trip has a fondness for Laura Ingalls Wilder books, and a museum and her property are preserved in Mansfield, MO. Although I wasn't quite as interested, I was surprised that I found the stop pretty enjoyable as well.

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After a quick lunch in the courthouse square, which Mansfield has done a very nice job of making a welcoming spot for passerby, it was off to Arkansas. I hit gravel before I got out of the city limits, but it didn't last too long. Before I left Missouri though I managed to find a couple remote roads leading to beautiful streams.

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As the miles went on the terrain got distinctly more hilly, as I approached what might be considered more true Ozark country than the farmland I had been passing by.

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Now my plan for the day had one major attraction, that did put a constraint on my schedule, I did have to make the ferry on time. After fun and winding roads I finallly crossed the Arkansas state line, to be greeted by the sight of the Peel Ferry leaving the dock. Not too dissapointed though, just gave me time to set up my video camera.

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The rest of the day was killing time and casually exploring. I found a few Geocaches to mark Arkansas off the list, which actually involved a dirt road and I finally got my truck muddy on that venture. Made a stop at a local flea market type of shop, which had a bunch of photos of the old historic building it was in being transported from the now lake bed it was formerly located on. Day 2 was the shortest travel of the day, Harrison, AR was the destination for food and rest, an evening storm rolled in and actually generated a severe thunderstorm warning for the county, however where I was only seen the edge of it and some light rain. By now I had found my routine of using my modified netbook (500GB hard drive running Lubuntu Linux) as a data backup, both video and still images were offloaded to make sure plenty of memory was free for the next day. Little did I know, I was going to need it, as Day 3 upped the ante for anything I had seen so far.
 
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Airmapper

Inactive Member
Day 3 needed an early start. First stop was near Ponca, AR, to hike the Lost Valley trail. The storms from the proceeding night made sure there would be plenty of water flowing, all streams were full. Actually during this time Texas was going underwater, the same system flooding them was only grazing the north end of the Ozarks.

The views were awesome, just leaving Harrison the view from the road was a treat in itself, it was extremely foggy but a few holes made the view that much better.

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Upon rolling into Ponca, my first idea was to check out the Buffalo River, my planned route had me fording it at some point, I wanted to see what kind of flow I was facing with the recent rain. On entering the short drive to a put in point, low and behold, I'm lucky enough to see this:

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The Elk of Ponca were not hiding today. I've heard some people look for days trying to see them, today they were in full view hanging out by the road. On to the river to check the water:

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More Elk to see as I continued to Lost Valley:

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And Lost Valley:

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After all the wonder hiking in Lost Valley, I stopped at the Ponca Elk Education Center. I was hoping I would see a bear, but this one had to do (actually I'd seen a few stuffed bears thus far...)

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After that, I found a cool country store and camping supply outpost, and ran into these:

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I struck up a conversation with the riders, they had actually just came from where I was heading. I asked about road conditions and discussed the bikes. They were a friendly bunch and appeared to be having a blast. I'd soon find out why. (Look for their tracks in the next photos.)
 
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Airmapper

Inactive Member
I struck out for what I knew would be the most treacherous part of the trip, I was decending into the valley to a historic looking place called Erbie. Being a solo rig, I'd have to approach everything with caution, ultimately I had to redirect to a safer route due to washed out water crossings, a medium sized creek had cut out the road before I could even get to the Buffalo River. But I still had to drop it in 4LO for the roads I encountered, which was more than I had anticipated.

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Someone order a package, way out here?

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After that excursion, I again modified my route to stay on some better roads for a while. My passengers were tired of the bumps and my Xterra's suspension is less than cushy, so for a while I found pavement. Before it was all over though I again found myself on dirt tracks. At one point crossing a creek, I killed the engine mid way of a stream a bit deeper than it looked, up to the running boards or so. I had it in 4HI and needed LO range to crawl over a rock ledge. A few moments of excitement made the question come up, are we really stuck in a creek, in nowhere Arkansas? Needless to say , the Xterra is a champ, 4LO engaged, rock ledge easily climbed, and on with the day. I didn't even have to use the winch.

Soon after, I found my way to the old timey ghost town of Rush. Storms were threatening to move in, so I took a hurried tour, and got the obligatory truck shot in front of the old buildings.

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As it started to rain, I made my way to Cotter, AR. The rain paused for a bit, as I crossed what I now know is a famous bridge.

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The rest of the day was heading for that evenings big meal and lodging in Salem, AR.
 
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Airmapper

Inactive Member
Day 4, the last day, but not the least eventful. First thing in the morning, I left Salem, and hit gravel to cross briefly into Missouri to see the Grand Gulf State Park. It is a formation created by a collapsed cave system. As I arrived, the Park manager was opening the gates, and low and behold after striking up a conversation, we were treated to a personal guided tour. The park is not normally manned, and our guide seemed to enjoy having visitors to show the sights.

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After Grand Gulf, I followed the water, what goes in Grand Gulf, comes out at Mammoth Springs, just back over the line in Arkansas. It is a huge spring deep under the surface of what you see as a pool of water.

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After a morning straddling the Missouri / Arkansas line, I finally stay in Missouri for good and make my way back east. Again the land slowly flattens out and becomes great flat expanses of fields. But I did find a bit of an air show from a local crop duster working along the way:

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Continuing East, my next stop was New Madrid. If your up on earthquake history, you'll know "it's all their fault" or at least that is what the T-shirts claim at the local museum. AN interesting stop it's a key location of civil war history, the site of earth shattering geologic note, and offered me a glimpse of Kentucky, and another Adventure I hope to complete one day across the river.

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The adventure was not supposed to end here, but unfortunately the Ferry ride I had planned from Dorena, MO to Hickman, KY was canceled due to the ferry being closed. A quick phone call from New Madrid confirmed I couldn't get back to Kentucky that way, so a short jog north, and I resumed my route I had taken on day one in reverse, and ultimately arrived home after a long day driving.


Thanks for reading, if you stuck with me through all that, I'm both shocked and happy.

I'm also making videos, here is my little teaser trailer Don't take it too seriously though, I got a bit carried away learning new video editing techniques. I do appreciate any YouTube subscriptions though. In case anyone is curious, no I do not monetize it, just goof off with a GoPro, or at least for now.

 
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4runnerteq

Explorer
Nice trip. The "smell" at Wickliffe was probly the Westvaco paper mill. Some days we actually get in here in Paducah. Not often, thankfully. Cause it is BAD. P U
 

LoneSniper

New member
Teaser trailer is great, looking forward to seeing full video of expedition.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

balexander87

Observer
I grew up in the part of the country. Drove 10 miles of dirt/gravel with 1-2 low water crossings every day to and from high school in Alton. It's cool to see it from a visitor's perspective. Really shows how much I took for granted :-/

The springs and rivers in this area are absolute gems. If you ever do this trip again, you'll have to check out Alley Spring. It's a beaut. Seeing pictures of the current river brings back awesome memories of floatin' and trout fishin' !

Thanks for the write up and the trip down memory lane!

Edit: There is also a pretty nice campground at Alley Spring that would make for a nice overnight.
 
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Airmapper

Inactive Member
Thanks, I had a great time exploring that area. I definitely want to return and do some more adventurous "Overland" type stuff, some more challenging 4x4 roads and camp instead of getting rooms.


I grew up in the part of the country. Drove 10 miles of dirt/gravel with 1-2 low water crossings every day to and from high school in Alton. It's cool to see it from a visitor's perspective. Really shows how much I took for granted :-/

The springs and rivers in this area are absolute gems. If you ever do this trip again, you'll have to check out Alley Spring. It's a beaut. Seeing pictures of the current river brings back awesome memories of floatin' and trout fishin' !

Thanks for the write up and the trip down memory lane!

Edit: There is also a pretty nice campground at Alley Spring that would make for a nice overnight.

Thanks, I'll try to remember to look into those areas. I'll need to have a lot more going for me to make it back out, but it's at least on my radar.

From my perspective, it was everything I love about Kentucky, but a little "more" wild. Bigger hills, bigger springs, clearer water, and I guess I was lucky but everyone I met was very friendly. People waved a me a LOT like I was a local. I thought Kentucky was pretty friendly but darn near every other truck would throw a hand up, (and believe it or not, with more than one finger!). My kind of place.

I grumble every time I go to Indiana, I intentionally wave at every vehicle I meet on rural roads just to goad a wave back, only 1 in 10 will return it. In MO and AR, heck I was missing some return waves because I wasn't expecting them.


Oh, first video is up. A quick run through of the Ohio/Mississippi confluence, and Cairo, IL. (A weird place, the video doesn't do it justice.)

 

Airmapper

Inactive Member
Here are the rest of the videos. I may be done, but I still have more raw video, but not anything particularly interesting. Not that this stuff is particularly great, it's something to play with in the editor though....



 

Slaw ninja

New member
Nice write up...I'm taking my boys out next week for Fall break around northern AR and southern MO. Have any suggestions on camping spots?
 

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