National Luna vs. X-charge split charger specs

[AndrewClarke]

Until I recently shorted out my X-Charge split charge system (my fault), it was working perfectly for me. For those unfamiliar with this product, you can see it at http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Charge.asp . The specs say it does 180A continuous load and 250A peak, and it is £40.

Now that I've blown it (it's probably repairable but OTOH I forgot it yesterday two hours from where I live), I need to replace it. I'm considering just buying another one, but I think the National Luna split charge system ( http://www.nationalluna.com/intelsol.htm ) would be a drop-in replacement as far as the wiring goes. The National Luna system has the theoretical advantage/disadvantage that it only charges the main battery for the first 5 minutes, while I suppose also making it a more complicated system at the same time. The NL is rated at 85A continuous, 400A peak and costs US$140.

So, X-Charge claims they have a higher continuous load, lower peak load, and lower price. NL has a few more features and is more expensive.

Does anyone see any reason why one is a better choice than the other? I'm also not sure whether I should directly compare manufacturers' specs either, as they source their components from different places.

I don't think I need the NL battery monitor, and since my truck is already wired, I'd skip the kit. BTW this is going in a 200tdi Land Rover 110 with the stock 60A (?) alternator.

In related news, I am bummed that I had to pull out my sweet yellow top Optima main battery yesterday and replace it with a Canadian Tire generic battery. I put in emergency shutoff switches for both batteries and there wasn't room for the Optima, the spiral cell winching battery, and two switches. Overall it's a safer system though, and therefore better.

Thanks,
- Andrew.

 

[shogun]

The specs say it does 180A continuous load and 250A peak, and it is £40.

The NL is rated at 85A continuous, 400A peak and costs US$140.

So, X-Charge claims they have a higher continuous load, lower peak load, and lower price. NL has a few more features and is more expensive.

Does anyone see any reason why one is a better choice than the other? I'm also not sure whether I should directly compare manufacturers' specs either, as they source their components from different places.

The difference in current ratings is kinda a moot point. I too was concerned about the ratings of the NL being able to handle the jump-start feature. Left as is, the instructions confirm the likelyhood of blown fuse due to jumping the main battery. They recommend that you dont really jump as much as let the main charge from the aux by letting them connect for a while before starting. The solonoids short term current rating should handle the overload situation. Users of the system report no big problems.

OTOH, the solonoid is easily changed for one of higher current rating. You should be able to replace with the same unit but 200a cont for less than $50. My inquiries lead me to conclude that a cranking starter may pull up to 160a. A simple replacement should eliminate any concerns about overloading while still using the auto features of the NL.

 

[Equipt]

Hello Gentlemen,

I thought I would put in a few words here to hopefully answer some of the questions brought up here.

The NL Intelligent Solenoid uses an 85 continuous/400 peak amperage Cole Hersee solenoid, and it can be easily replaced with their 200 amp continuous solenoid if preferred. The one that is included with the IS should be fine for all but the most extreme situations. I have had mine installed for over 3 years now without a concern at all. I have hooked cables to the primary for jump starting (to test that option). I have used the manual override to close the solenoid and jump the vehicle from inside the cab. I let the current in the batteries level out first. I have a M12000 winch on my 100 Series and have brought it to a halt, while having inline fuses. No troubles at all. I would say try it until it fails. Find out why at that time, then adjust when necessary.

The IS charges the primary initially for a 5 minute period to assist in recouping the battery level from the discharge of starting the vehicle. Then it closes the solenoid and in effect puts the batteries in parallel. They are both being charged from then on, until the vehicle is turned off.

There are a couple things that will blow the fuses. Installing the negative terminals before the positives. Trying to immediately jump start from secondary to primary with out giving the batteries a chance to level. Winching with the vehicle off and frying the primary battery so that the winch has to draw from the secondary. These are a couple sure fire ways to blow a fuse.

Cheers,

 

[AndrewClarke]

National Luna installed

I just realized I never responded here to thank Paul for his legendary product support. After talking to Paul on the phone and reading his response here, I decided to order the NL intelligent solenoid. The package arrived yesterday and I installed it today. Everything went smoothly and it fired up on the first try, which is always a good thing when dealing with electrical components.

I thought I'd post a couple shots of my dual battery setup, in case anyone is interested. A couple weeks ago I also added two switches originally designed for Caterpillars. The top one turns my winch current on/off, and the bottom one switches the negative on my whole battery system.

Well, it seems that the photo uploader isn't working right now, so here are some images the other way:

Thanks again Shogun and Paul for your help,
- Andrew.