Need help deciding on a 82 Burb.

[88Xj]

I currently am driving a 88 5speed 4.0 cherokee. 31's & 3.55's, 4 door..decent little rig. However I'm starting to feel its small for camping trips/gear and I always loved the old Square Burbs. My Xj gets full, and if I were to have 4 people come on a trip with me, it'd get cramped quick!

I found this on my local CL listings and idk but it keeps calling to me.
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/3064542910.html
I believe the guy said 82, 350, 4speed manual, np208 I believe..he said chain driven transfer..said he swapped in 3/4 tons, front is equal to a D44 out of a diesel? And a corporate 60 in the rear..both with 4.10's & both are posi according to the owner. Front is all leafs around 7", rear is blocks around 6"..has 38" tires..

I dig the barn doors & standard trans, and I would drop it down and trim it some to run 35's at most. I figure the Burb would be alot better Expo/Camping rig with so much more space...and the fact that its BIG & steel makes me feel safe having my own daughter in it. What are my do's/don't and concerns here guys? What are the issues with these older Burbs? I don't really like the whole carb'd thing but is it an issue?
Mileage wise with say a 3" and 33's or 35's, and the 4speed & 4.10's what would I be looking at? Currently around 19/24 in the jeep.

I'm thinking of trading + 250-500 on his end. Then I could sell the 500-700 in jeep parts I have and fix the Burb..sell the tires and get cheap 35's or even 33's maybe ectect.

 

[LIVEanimals]

I'm biased, I love Square Bodies. I'm on my 4th and my first Sub and I completely love it, it has enough room for all gear and still enough to sleep in. Go for it! I really dig the standard trans, wish mine was that way.

 

[redthies]

I say go for it too. The fuel economy is about the only place you would lose in a trade. If it were on 35s with 3-4" of lift it would be at optimal height for off pavement exploring. I wouldn't think you would get to far above the mid teens for mileage, but if you drive it mellow you might.

 

[Jimmeh]

Your mileage will drop considerably with MAYBE 19 being your high, although it being a carbed 4 speed 350, that is probably too hopeful of a number, especially with a larger tire. Realistically, I would be looking anywhere between 12/16. Good luck finding what you're looking for! That's not a bad price for what it is, but I would personally try to find a fuel injected one.

 

[LIVEanimals]

Your mileage will drop considerably with MAYBE 19 being your high, although it being a carbed 4 speed 350, that is probably too hopeful of a number, especially with a larger tire. Realistically, I would be looking anywhere between 12/16. Good luck finding what you're looking for! That's not a bad price for what it is, but I would personally try to find a fuel injected one.

My Sub gets 10 but thats with a auto 3-speed the standard will help but not much. These Subs are heavy and were only rated 10/12 mpg for a 3/4 ton and I think 12/14 mpg for a 1/2 ton since you have 3/4 ton axles you can imagine what you'll get. The only way one of these ol Subs will ever see 19 is with a Cummins and a 5-speed.

 

[88Xj]

Alright guys give me a little more here..with 4.10's what would be best for the 350's power band? 33's or 35's? I'm very very seriously considering this burb...and 33 vs 35
won't matter to me much..I'd probably lower it from 7" down to around 2-4".

My xj over the last 10 months, has got a new 145A alt., new starter, new clutch/flywheel, new trans/transfer both diffs rebuild, new hubs, u joints & ball joints just 2 days ago. New slave & master...its got a lot of new parts and alot are covered by warranty. I'm kinda of nervous about giving all that up as I worked hard on it. On everything & its been my first car since I was 17, now 20.

I believe theres no such thing as a corp 60...its a 14B semi-float and front is probably a d44. He says 4.10 both with posi's. Any good build threads on burbs out there? I've been skimming through the fullsize section on a few forums.

 

[rxm6]

Alright guys give me a little more here..with 4.10's what would be best for the 350's power band? 33's or 35's? I'm very very seriously considering this burb...and 33 vs 35
won't matter to me much..I'd probably lower it from 7" down to around 2-4".

My xj over the last 10 months, has got a new 145A alt., new starter, new clutch/flywheel, new trans/transfer both diffs rebuild, new hubs, u joints & ball joints just 2 days ago. New slave & master...its got a lot of new parts and alot are covered by warranty. I'm kinda of nervous about giving all that up as I worked hard on it. On everything & its been my first car since I was 17, now 20.

I believe theres no such thing as a corp 60...its a 14B semi-float and front is probably a d44. He says 4.10 both with posi's. Any good build threads on burbs out there? I've been skimming through the fullsize section on a few forums.

33 v 35 isn't that much of a change for the 350 w/ 4.10s. 35's will drag more and you might have rev more to move the truck if it gets bogged down, but it's not really that big an issue. The only thing I would worry about is the axles on the D44 (if it is a d44, it looks like a gm 10b). The 35's will put more stress on the axle shafts, especially if you thrash it around. Do-able by any means, but not very bulletproof imho. But what is?

My 75 blazer gets about 8/12 with 31's and a 3 speed auto and my 85 blazer gets about 12/15 with 31's and a 4 speed auto and they both weigh less. With larger tires and lifted, you are probably looking at anywhere from 10/14 unladen and 8/12 loaded or towing.

As for things to watch out for, look at the state of rust beneath the passenger door and the driver door. It's a good indicator of the shape of the rest of the truck. But, the truck looks like it's been painted at some point, so rust may have been taken care of already. Other than that, if it holds gas, water, and oil, it's good to go.

 

[88Xj]

Ok talked to the guy again today..he's gonna send me pics of the diffs so I can identify thems. Its a 1/2, 100% stock 350, sm465, np208. Has super winch manual hubs, 7" leafs up front, 6" blocks in the rear, on 38" swampers. I forgot to ask mileage wise, but clean title & no rust. Always Cali owned.

He said he pulled the diffs from a older turbo diesel chevy that could of been a military truck..or just paint like one?...which makes me think they are not 4.10's? Or did TD's get 4.10's? He says they are 3/4 tons...made the comment that his ubolts off his 1/2 would not fit around his new 3/4 ton axles? He will replace the PS pump, valve cover gaskets, and smog and re-register it before we trade..its got no cat, and the carb needs to be tuned he said.

I'll post pics of the axle's once I get them...is they any sure way to tell what diffs they are other than the covers? Anything I should check mainly..common issues?

 

[rxm6]

I'll post pics of the axle's once I get them...is they any sure way to tell what diffs they are other than the covers? Anything I should check mainly..common issues?

http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml

He said he pulled the diffs from a older turbo diesel chevy that could of been a military truck..or just paint like one?...which makes me think they are not 4.10's? Or did TD's get 4.10's? He says they are 3/4 tons...made the comment that his ubolts off his 1/2 would not fit around his new 3/4 ton axles?

If he pulled 8 lug axles out of a military vehicle, he would have pulled a 14bolt full floater and a Dana 60. That front axle does not look like a Dana 60. If he pulled the axles out of a 3/4ton truck painted like a military truck, then he most likely pulled a GM 10bolt and a 14bolt semi-floater (most likely) or full floater (less likely). The most common gearing in a 3/4ton 14bolt was 4.10 although anywhere from 3.73 to 4.56 is possible from the factory.