1. For the wheels as I asked about earlier...can I simply run a wheel spacer with new hubs to fit my JK stock wheels? I think it the axle dust cap that interferes? If so what size do I need? I've read that a 2'' spacer is preferred but would 1.5'' work? Or 1.75''?
I think you might be right with the stock wheels and the hub on the stock axle. It is a beefy unit, and I don't know why so many ditch it for a less stout factory setup. You might be able to buy spacers or adapters to go from the stock spacing to the JK spacing, but I simply replaced the factory drums and went to 5 on 4.5 drums from Princess Auto for $59.00 each on sale. Worked for me, but not for your 5 on 5 spacing. You can pick up reasonable prices 5 on 4.5 - 5 on 5 adapters that are also spacers...not sure what you would need, 1.75 "might" work. Simply measure from the drum face to the cap... there you go.
2. After having the trailer sandblasted there is some hollowed out areas where there were seams...so I picked up some Rust-Mort which I believed I can poor into the seams and leave over night...then rinse out...BUT before I used it I read the instruction which say to not use on sand blasted metal. So what should I do....just fill the seams with silicone and hope for the best or what? Most of the seams are inside so they wont see much moisture but still better safe than sorry...
I had the same issue. I treated the tub (as per my build thread) with POR 15 Metal Prep after cleaning out all the rust I could. I then flushed it, dried it with a leaf blower (don't laugh, worked awesome) and then treated those spots with POR 15. The POR in POR 15 is "Paint Over Rust" as in it chemically changes Ferrous Oxide (rust) to an inert state and stops it. It also sticks like mad. I used the flat finish in the inside of the tub and the outside before I did the Monstaliner. It bonded VERY well, and is highly recomended. You can also buy a quality automotive seam sealer, they are paintable and stick to anything. You can seal the seams on the outside and the tub then simply paint over it. Done. The M101 CDN 2 is made of metal far superior to the old M416's of the 1960's and so on, and they will last a LOT longer if protected.
3. I was going to paint the underside and inside of the tub with "rubberized rocker guard". Why? Because its cheap and I already have 4 cans. Anyone used this stuff with good or bad results? I liked the idea especially for the inside as it would hopefully minimize nose from items bouncing and also wear on anything from vibrations...
I used the same thing under. They came from DEW engineering with a rubberized coating under them, similar to the stuff you noted. I pressure washed mine underneath and ground down the rusty spots, treated it all with Semi Gloss POR 15 and then hit the flat panels with undercoat. There was little to no rust, and my trailer was not one of the "Unused ones" mine saw a lot of use. Worked awesome, looks mint under there still. Inside I am not sure how well it will stand up? You can buy Duplicolour Bed Kits at Can Tire for about $70 bucks... it is activated and will dry harder and more durable than the non activated rattle can rocker paint. You might be able to get away with the rocker paint, but it may end up not lasting and costing more in the end. Whatever you do make certain it is the PAINTABLE stuff... the non-paintable will melt if you hit it with any top coat and will be a messy disaster (ask me how I know).
4. When painting the trailer what's the process? Can I use self etching primer and then paint? Do I use primer and then por-15 and then paint? I'm going rattler can it myself.
YES. Self etching is a very good idea. You can also just use POR 15 as a base (after you metal prep it with POR 15 Metal Prep) and top coat with something you like. I used roll on urethane bedliner inside, Monstaliner. It is a 2 component product, and works amazingly well. HIGHLY recommend it, would use again in a blink. Plus you can get it tinted to any colour you like. Anyhow, do not use rattle cans, they do not build enough MIL thickness, and you will get a good finish that will not last. You went through the process to blast it (don't worry, it was not a bad move), treat it to a proper paint job!
I think that's it for now. Any help is immensely appreciated guys. CHEERS
Hope some or any of my ramblings help!
Greg
