New gears purchased, but not locked...

[NorthernWoodsman]

I bought some 4.88 third members out of a 1994 4Runner and am close to ready to install them, well, pay some one to install them that is. Unfortunately, not having space, tools, or time necessitates the paying someone and all.

After buying the 4.88's I'm running low-ish on funds for the time being. It's been a busy Fall season of mechanical repairs (head gasket, water pump seal, rear cam seal, header-cat exhaust, putting together a new/used factory intake, etc). I know that now is the time to lock the rear if I'm going to do it, but after pricing what it would take to get an ARB in there, ~$2,000, I don't really see that happening. I'm torn a little as to whether i should just wait and worry about locking the rear down the road when I have more money (ha!) and not worry about it now, it isn't really needed at the moment.

I had this thought today that maybe I should save for a Toyota e-locking rear axle and just swap out the whole thing. Does anyone know what year truck/4Runners came with this axle? I know some have modified their axle to fit the e-locker third, but that isn't really an option here where I live otherwise I might consider it.

What about Detroit Trutrac? Rear only or both F/R? Positives/Negatives?

Powertrax? Yukon?

What other options are there for a decent price? The Eaton e-locker, Auburn and Detroit Locker are all out of my budget.

I know that this is most likely covered ad nauseum somewhere and I don't want to create a replica thread and waste time and space if avoidable, so feel free to point me somewhere else if necessary.

Thanks everyone!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Assuming this is for your 1994 PU? There isn't a factory equipped e-locker axle that is going to be a direct swap for your truck (width, brakes, etc). Best bet would be to buy a e-locked diff w/4.88's (~$600-1000) and do the mods to your housing (they can be done in a driveway). E-locks came in 97+ Tacomas (all 4WD TRD) and some 4Runners as well as 2nd Gen Tacoma's and FJC's

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Hey Kurt- yes, this is for my '94 truck. I have considered the route that you mention, but it just isn' feasible for me right now. At ~$600-1,000 plus paying the additional cost of having someone swap in the 4.88's (My understanding is that the e-locker axles never came in 4.88), having my truck down for the time it takes to do the mod, probably having to leave the island I live on for the work to be done, renting a car for the time my truck is being worked on, the ferry costs, etc... just adds up to way too much money right now and logistically it would not be easy. This is the route that I would prefer to go though.

Do you know if the third member from the '97+ Tacomas would even fit my axle?

The Trutrac is about $500 and the ARB or e-locker options are going to be $1,500-2,000. I'm tired of driving with 4.10's and want to get something done soon....looks like I have more phone calls to make.

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

It's been awhile since I worked on a Toyota. If I remember correctly its not a whole lot of work getting the newer diff into the old housing. If you take it to a decent shop I don't think it'd be that much more to drop that in with a gear swap. They already have to pull the other two. You could do the wiring yourself before hand. I wouldn't do the gear change without getting the lockers that I wanted. No sense in paying twice for all that labor, or spending the time to do the same job twice. Good luck either way.

 

[blakeape]

Swapping the thirds (front and rear) is really a very easy job. It takes a while, but it is literally unbolt the 4.10's and bolt in the 4.88's. If your truck has manual hubs and the front 4.88's were from an ADD truck you need to slide the locking collar over inside and secure it in the locked position or you might be able to put your non-ADD axle tube on the ADD third. The rear is ridiculously easy and you should toss it in with either a lunch box locker or leave it open. The factory V6 4.88 Toyota rear thirds were unique and could only take a factory Toyota 4.88 Ring and Pinion which are ridiculously expensive. They work great but are kind of not re-buildable. Save your 4.10 V6 rear third and someday have it set up with an ARB and 4.88's or swap in a e-locker third re-geared to 4.88. The front is the more complicated end so If I were you I'd toss in what you have now and worry about locking the rear later.

 

[RDC76]

Aussie locker

Have you thought about an Aussie locker? You could install it yourself its not to difficult and requires basic hand tools. Google Aussie locker, its not that expensive and works really well. I actually just picked up an e-locked factory third member today but its a 4.10 ratio. Too bad your so far away I have a shop at my house and could help you out. Four nuts one brake line and an e brake cable is all you have to take off each backing plate to pull your axles. Dont forget to clamp the rubber brake line at the axle.Then just unbolt all the nuts around your third member and pull it out. After you disconnect the d-shaft. It's really doable. Then you could put in the Aussie locker. I would not recommend setting the others up E-locker/ARB yourself.but would recommend the ARB over the e locker.I've had and have both. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

Rich

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...At ~$600-1,000 plus paying the additional cost of having someone swap in the 4.88's

You should be able to find a 4.88 e-locked 3rd member for that price. Used take-out towards the $600 range and new gears and fresh install in a used e-locker would be closer to the $1000.

you know if the third member from the '97+ Tacomas would even fit my axle?

The e-locked version will in fact work with the mods to your housing, you have to notch it for the e-locker actuator and move some of the mounting studs. Details here:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/retrofit_electric_locker.html#housing

The non-locked diff (commonly called the 8.4") will not interchange but it was never locked so its not a valid option anyway.

The Trutrac is about $500 and the ARB or e-locker options are going to be $1,500-2,000. I'm tired of driving with 4.10's and want to get something done soon....looks like I have more phone calls to make.

Where are you getting $2000 on the ARB? You already have the 4.88 diff, it shouldn't be more than say $1200 to buy the locker and have it professionally installed into your 3rd member, possibly less. Even with the compressor you should be more like $1400 assuming you can physically put the 3rd into the housing yourself. The TrueTrac may cost $500 but it requires the same setup and install into the housing.

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Hey Blakeape- I'm not sure if I just really like your answer or if you just said what I wanted to hear... Seriously though, you're right, I'm installing V6 4.88 thirds in the F/R. I didn't know about the factory V6 thirds taking only Toyota ring/pinion gears. Nothing else fits?

I like your idea of keeping my old 4.10 rear third and installing 4.88's and locking it with an ARB or e-locker when I have the money. What do you mean by lunch box locker? Sorry, kinda new at this so I don't know all the terminology. Would that be like the Trutrac?

My plan is to have the non-ADD axle tube swapped onto the new ADD third. Bolt holes are all in the same place, but the bolts look different on the top (haven't removed one to check yet). Do you know of any problems with swapping the axle tube over?

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Have you thought about an Aussie locker? You could install it yourself its not to difficult and requires basic hand tools. Google Aussie locker, its not that expensive and works really well. I actually just picked up an e-locked factory third member today but its a 4.10 ratio. Too bad your so far away I have a shop at my house and could help you out. Four nuts one brake line and an e brake cable is all you have to take off each backing plate to pull your axles. Dont forget to clamp the rubber brake line at the axle.Then just unbolt all the nuts around your third member and pull it out. After you disconnect the d-shaft. It's really doable. Then you could put in the Aussie locker. I would not recommend setting the others up E-locker/ARB yourself.but would recommend the ARB over the e locker.I've had and have both. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

Rich

Googling that right now....well now, that is interesting. The price is great! The only thing I see is that they only make a locker for the V6 and Turbo-4. Since I'm installing the V6 4.88 third I should be good I think.

Is the Aussie similar in function to the Trutrac? Seems to be.

You should be able to find a 4.88 e-locked 3rd member for that price. Used take-out towards the $600 range and new gears and fresh install in a used e-locker would be closer to the $1000.



The e-locked version will in fact work with the mods to your housing, you have to notch it for the e-locker actuator and move some of the mounting studs. Details here:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/retrofit_electric_locker.html#housing

The non-locked diff (commonly called the 8.4") will not interchange but it was never locked so its not a valid option anyway.



Where are you getting $2000 on the ARB? You already have the 4.88 diff, it shouldn't be more than say $1200 to buy the locker and have it professionally installed into your 3rd member, possibly less. Even with the compressor you should be more like $1400 assuming you can physically put the 3rd into the housing yourself. The TrueTrac may cost $500 but it requires the same setup and install into the housing.

Kurt- To do the e-locker looks like I would need the e-locker third, new 4.88 ring/pinion, and someone able to do the mods. At this point I do not trust anyone where I live to do this. Install the thirds for me- yes, do mods to my axle- no. The other downside at this point is my truck would be down for longer since the axle has to come off I assume to do the mod for the e-locker. The Sonoran Steel link is great by the way...I had found it last night while doing some research on all of this.

The ARB- When I priced it all out; locker, compressor, air tank. The total came to about $2,000. I looked around and never saw anything much cheaper, a lot much higher, but nothing cheaper really.

Ideally, I'm trying to keep costs to no more than $1,000 total right now; locker and thirds installed.

...you're not making it easy to pass on this option you know.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...The other downside at this point is my truck would be down for longer since the axle has to come off I assume to do the mod for the e-locker.

Fwiw the mods are a couple of hours worth of work, you need some tools not utilized for the diff swap but were not talking anything beyond a grinder, drill & tap. By all means if your not comfortable doing the mods, don't. However I think swapping thirds is as complex as the mods themselves, albeit more time.

...The ARB- When I priced it all out; locker, compressor, air tank. The total came to about $2,000. I looked around and never saw anything much cheaper, a lot much higher, but nothing cheaper really...

To have an air locker you need the locker and a compressor. The lockers are ~$950 and the entry level compressor (for locker operation) is $165. It does need to be set up in the 3rd just as any other full-carrier locker but that shouldn't be more than $200 on a loose 3rd. You don't need an air tank, high volume compressor, etc. For well under $2000 I can ship you a complete build ARB 3rd, w/ 4.88's and the compressor and that is all new parts. You already have the core housing and I'm assuming 4.88 gears and the flange. You should be well under $1500 complete.

 

[tanglefoot]

A "lunch box locker" is a locker that fits inside the stock differential case, like an Aussie, Powertrax, etc. The Truetrac isn't a lunch box--it has its own differential case that the ring gear bolts to.

I'm a "lunch boxer." I've had a Powertrax LockRight in the back of the '85 for over 10 years now and have been really happy with it. I self-installed it. I avoided the full-case lockers because of the cost and gear setup requirement. It's been really easy to live with and gives you that full-locker traction advantage that a limited slip can't match. I used to hear it click when going around corners but I put heavier, 85-140 (I think it was) gear oil in that diff and now I can't even hear it click. It does handle a little differently than an open diff--mainly the sway when shifting gears and the tendency to buck around corners but you get used to it and usually forget it's there. I've never experienced the snow and ice drawbacks some people mention--it's always been a help for me.

I didn't want to lock the front axle due to the increased likelihood of breaking Birfields (or the front-end parts you feature) and the difficulty steering. I've found the locked rear/open front to be plenty capable while still allowing for those tight turns.

 

[RDC76]

Googling that right now....well now, that is interesting. The price is great! The only thing I see is that they only make a locker for the V6 and Turbo-4. Since I'm installing the V6 4.88 third I should be good I think.

Is the Aussie similar in function to the Trutrac? Seems to be.



Kurt- To do the e-locker looks like I would need the e-locker third, new 4.88 ring/pinion, and someone able to do the mods. At this point I do not trust anyone where I live to do this. Install the thirds for me- yes, do mods to my axle- no. The other downside at this point is my truck would be down for longer since the axle has to come off I assume to do the mod for the e-locker. The Sonoran Steel link is great by the way...I had found it last night while doing some research on all of this.

The ARB- When I priced it all out; locker, compressor, air tank. The total came to about $2,000. I looked around and never saw anything much cheaper, a lot much higher, but nothing cheaper really.

Ideally, I'm trying to keep costs to no more than $1,000 total right now; locker and thirds installed.

...you're not making it easy to pass on this option you know.

For where your at money wise the auto Aussie locker seems to be your best bet.The Aussie just replaces the spider gears a Detroit trutrac is a whole carrier.as far as the auto lockers go aussies or powertrax as mentioned above are the most comfortable in a daily driver as well and easiest to install. But Kurt is right on and priced right for the ARB setup if you can swing that.

 

[JasonRedwood]

I have heard good things about Spartan lockers as well. When I lock the rear of my truck I'm going the Spartan or Aussie route considering it is a 20+ year old truck. Personally I don't want to drop toooooo much into it.

 

[AxleIke]

Northern Woodsman, are the thirds you purchased 4.88 factory, or aftermarket gears?

Some of the options offered up in this thread indicate putting the 4.88's into an elocked third. That only works if you buy aftermarket 4.88 gears, the factory 4.88 gear sets only work with the thirdmember they came in. They are a thinner gear, and thus don't work properly with other thirdmember housings.

If you have aftermarket, or plan to install the locker into your existing housing, then no worries, and best of luck!

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

You already have the core housing and I'm assuming 4.88 gears and the flange. You should be well under $1500 complete.

Thanks Kurt, now you have my head filled with thoughts of an ARB...hmmm. I will be PM'ing you in just a moment. And yes, I have all of those things you mention.

A "lunch box locker" is a locker that fits inside the stock differential case, like an Aussie, Powertrax, etc. The Truetrac isn't a lunch box--it has its own differential case that the ring gear bolts to.

It does handle a little differently than an open diff--mainly the sway when shifting gears and the tendency to buck around corners but you get used to it and usually forget it's there. I've never experienced the snow and ice drawbacks some people mention--it's always been a help for me.

Thanks Tanglefoot. I've always loved your truck. Makes me miss my '85 longbed. The issue with ice and snow is an issue for where I live and seems to be a common complaint with these types of lockers.

For where your at money wise the auto Aussie locker seems to be your best bet. But Kurt is right on and priced right for the ARB setup if you can swing that.

Yes and maybe...

Northern Woodsman, are the thirds you purchased 4.88 factory, or aftermarket gears?

Some of the options offered up in this thread indicate putting the 4.88's into an elocked third. That only works if you buy aftermarket 4.88 gears, the factory 4.88 gear sets only work with the thirdmember they came in. They are a thinner gear, and thus don't work properly with other thirdmember housings.

If you have aftermarket, or plan to install the locker into your existing housing, then no worries, and best of luck!

I have a factory third complete w/housing from a 94 4Runner. Plan is to swap the whole third and housing both F/R. The new ones are cleaned and repainted and just waiting install....and locker... Good to know about the gears and housings.

----
After reading through two other threads and over 14 pages about this I'm now leaning away from the lunchbox style lockers. Can't beat the price on them, that's for sure. And overall, I really like their simplicity as far as not having airlines, electrical wiring, etc to have to concern myself with. After reading all of the comments on the other threads and all of the comments here, it's the issue with snow and ice that is starting to push me away from the lunchboxers. I like to go up to the mountains in winter here for snowshoeing and hot-springing and we have big mountains and curvy roads out here and the majority of commenters have noted their poor performance in these conditions. Might be time to dig up my coffee cans and re-look at the ARB.