New member, want to bounce trailer idea of you guys

mike0331

New member
Hey all, long time lurker.

My wife and I have recently started going camping more often and planning more camping trips. We thought it would be cool to build a trailer for a fold out tent. Initially we were considering building an offroad tear-drop of sorts, but the project was a bit ambitious given our current time constraints. I have a friend who lives an hour from me who has a full metal fabrication shop in his garage, and I should have some time this summer to go to his place and build the trailer.

I designed a rough sketch of the trailer in sketchup. Conceptually it's pretty simple. It's going to be a 48"*82* box with an adjustable height rack for the fold out tent. I am trying to keep it as "flat" as possible when not raised so the dogs can easily get in and out when we take them with us. I want to maintain the ability to raise it up for when we don't have the dogs with us or if we are in an area with a lot of bears... which frankly is probably just for the cool/peace of mind factor.

My plan was to use trailer receiver stock at the 4 corners and for the 4 corners of the top rack. Because the trailer is only going to be 18" deep and I want to be able to lift the top rack up over 2 additional feet, this will allow me to keep 4 36" inch pieces of 2" stock in the trailer that can be dropped in from above and held in with clevis pins. I plan on mounting a 30" scissor jack in between the trailer top and the tent rack. to lift the tent rack I'll slide in the 4 guide rods/uprights from the top, and jack up the rack with the scissor jack. Alternatively, I won't have bars sticking up out of the trailer when I don't need the added height. This will also allow me to fold out the tent at a lower level and get it set-up, and then jack it up. Having done some research we are looking at the Smittybilt overlander XL.

I am planning on buying a 46" spring width 3500lb axle and using 1200 or 1500lb springs and shackles with shock mounts attached. It will be towed with my or my wife's JKU, and we'll grab a couple JK wheels off craigslist for it. In the immediate future it will be used at designated campsites and not too far off the beaten path, though I would like it to be overland-worthy. I am planning on using 2X2 stock to frame it out.

Longer term plans include a water tank, RV pump, and propane water heater. I will have a propane tank on it anyway for a tent heater... which will hopefully encourage the wife to come out camping more in the fall/winter which is my favorite time to camp.

Criticize it, give me ideas, etc. I'm all ears. I want to come here before I make any crazy mistakes. Initially I may just use a standard tongue and ball, but eventually I'd like to buy or a build a hitch with greater articulation.

It won't let me add image links, but they can be seen below by removing the bolded text.

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htt[removeme]ps://scontent.fbos1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18425472_4600302285949_1000256513248806201_n.jpg?oh=07fc111af6cfc9ab42dbb1f555ceffe7&oe=59AF7F86


Mike
 

chunko

Observer
Cool design, Mike. Having never built a trailer I'm not sure how sturdy the frame will have to be. However, I would be concerned with the tent rack drooping especially since you will have only a single point "pushing" up at the center (I'm assuming the rack is the rectangle off to the side). This drooping could make it difficult for you to line up and put in the insert pieces without them binding. You may consider bracing the rack further or maybe using a Jack at each end and having pivot points at the rack legs similar to xventure's racks so you can lift one end at a time.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

chunko

Observer
I noticed that you said the inserts would be put in prior to lifting. However, I think my initial concern is still valid. One thing you can do in addition to pivots is to mount gas struts at each corner so you can lift it by hand with minimal effort.

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mike0331

New member
I'm going to do some tweaking on the plan today.

So my issue with gas struts is that would require "fixed" extension poles. I want to be able to lift the tent rack higher than the height of the trailer when the tent is sitting flat on it. I am planning on having the trailer have no more than an 18" tall bed, and I'm figuring with 32" tires 4 more inches for the tent rack, that will have me right around 4 feet, which is already higher than I want to be for the dogs. If I can push it another 2-2.5 Feet I'll be happy. This way, I drop the separate 3+ foot guide poles in from the top, cotter pin them to the trailer, lift the tent rack, and then cotter pin the tent rack, and lower the jack so that the guide poles are what takes the weight of the tent. That should fix any sagging issue. The jack will only be putting a load on the tent rack for lifting, once it's up the guide poles become supports.

I understand I may need to buy "telescoping" square tubing. I've also heard that round tubing may be better for preventing binding issues. Thoughts on any of this?

Mike
 
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mike0331

New member
Here are a couple pics of the proposed plan, sorry the site isn't letting me insert links.
base dimensions.jpgtrailer design 2 angle.jpgTongue Dimensions.jpgtrailer fender.jpg



Interested in thoughts, especially on the fender space. I was planning on using the ultra-tow 48" torsion axle designed for 2000 lbs. I wasn't sure how low the spindle sits below the bottom of the trailer frame. I'm also not sure if the fenders need to go up as high/come out as far. The circle drawn in there is 32"

As you can see, the top of the trailer and tent rack both have vertically situated 2X2s on the corners. There is also some angle iron on the top of the trailer. This way, the tent rack sits(and can be cotter-pinned) right to the top of the trailer. This will allow me to insert 3 - 3.5 foot square stock in those holes, cotter pin it in, and slide the tent rack up 2-2.5 feet. I wouldn't be able to do this with fixed uprights because the trailer is only 22 inches deep with the frame, so it would only allow for 18 inches of up-travel.

Mike
 
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mike0331

New member
Met with my friend and tweaked some of the design details, interested in what you guys think
trailer front.jpg

Tent rack fully down:
Trailer Tent Rack Down.jpg

Tent rack fully up with uprights inserted:
Tent Rack Up.jpg


Mike
 

screwball48

Explorer
The one thing I notice is that you may want to run your center tongue bar back at least to your second crossmember.


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mike0331

New member
My only concern with that was in the future I was thinking of maybe tucking a water tank up in between those first two cross-members to keep the weight towards the front. I've seen some 8X16X36s out there.

Also curious as to what you guys think about skin options to keep it light. I was thinking plywood inside nothing to heavy will be going in there (chairs, coolers, etc).

Mike
 

Martyinco

Adventurer
Also curious as to what you guys think about skin options to keep it light. I was thinking plywood inside nothing to heavy will be going in there (chairs, coolers, etc).

Mike
I used HDPE on my trailer build, one square foot of 14ga steel is I believe 7.6 lbs, my HDPE is 2
 

mike0331

New member
Thanks, I'll look into HDPE. Your build came out awesome by the way.

I hope to get it done soon... I'm just at the mercy of a friend, so we all know how that can go. But, he has a full fab shop in his garage and he's one of those people who knows all the right people, so he can get metal delivered to his house by another friend at cost.

Mike
 

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