New Member's 2nd gen Montero strange handling

[flyingdaneish]

Hey all!
I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero SR which I have owned for the past 2 years.
In the time I have owned it there have been a number of issues, but the most glaring and annoying issue has been the feel of the suspension and steering. There is almost no steering feel, it is more like the wheel is connected to a spring. The suspension also is noticeably unstable at high speeds; when on the highway it will react to steering changes very wobbly almost like fish-tailing. I know this vehicle was created as a sort of high-end or luxury SUV back in the day, but I doubt that the handling was this terrible.

My gut feeling is that the steering and suspension issues may be connected, but I don't want to just start throwing parts at it before I have a basic understanding of what could be causing it.
The Montero did have an alignment a year ago, and yeah I need another one, but it was acting the same then. The adjustable shocks are working as far as I can tell, I do notice a difference in ride quality with the different settings.

Has anyone else ever dealt with this? Is this just generally how monteros feel to drive? I would love to hear any questions or suggestions. And if I can resolve this issue I will definitely be modifying it.

Heres a pic, gotta give you something for clicking on this thread!

 

[BayMonty]

Check your inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, sway bars and links, and the stabilizer bar in the rear. There's also a trailing arm that you might want to check. Another common thing is the idler and pitman arms. ADD has a chromoly idler Kingpin kit that helps make steering more precise.

Adventure Driven Design | Mitsubishi Montero Chromoly Idler Kingpin Shaft

1992-2000 Montero (generation 2 and 2.5) - the idler arm works to support the pitman arm in the steering system. While your steering box and pitman arm do all of the actual hydraulic to mechanical work; moving the front wheels from left to right, the tie

shop.adventuredrivendesign.com

Hope you get it sorted out!

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Also check front and rear sway bar links.

 

[Toasty]

When it comes to steering and suspension just throw parts at it. These things are old and cheap to rebuild, if you can't afford it all at once just do it in stages. Especially if the long term is lift and wheeling, do tires last.

 

[brad2274]

After replacing the likely worn out parts, if you still have slop adjust the steering box, super easy to do and got rid of most of my slop.

 

[flyingdaneish]

When it comes to steering and suspension just throw parts at it. These things are old and cheap to rebuild, if you can't afford it all at once just do it in stages. Especially if the long term is lift and wheeling, do tires last.

So if I were to want to go towards sticking some old man emu parts in this eventually would you suggest I check the suspension parts that wouldn’t be replaced in a lift and then just go for it?


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[flyingdaneish]

A lift isn't going to replace tie rods, control arms, idler arm, ball joints..

If you want to just solve the problem fast and cheap, Detroit Axle markets 8 and 9 piece front end kits that will put you back in tight handling fast for around $100-150. If you want to upgrade that right away there are chromoly ball joints available, you could get a real OEM idler or you could get an ADD bombproof idler.

There are links to that stuff on http://www.adventuredrivendesign.com/tech/ or you can search your favorite retail marketplace(s)

Thanks for the link, that’s some really helpful stuff. Unfortunately it may be a while before I can address this stuff, I’m kinda buried in snow, or at least that’s what it feels like.

Thanks all y’all again, I’ll try to give an update if things change


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[brad2274]

If you dont wanna replace it all again soon try to avoid the cheap complete front end kit, i did a $160 ebay kit a while back when i was new. lasted less than 10k miles and had no zircs on some so they where toast after a trail ride in NC, creaking and squealing now. Going with moog or similar higher quality next

 

[RyanY]

Actually, Moog quality is pretty hit or miss anymore - I've heard that there are fake Moog parts out there so it's hard to tell what quality you might end up with. The way to ensure that the parts you install will last as long as the originals did is to use OEM Mitsubishi parts or the ADD upgrades. I've heard that people have had good luck with the 555 labeled parts as well but have no personal experience with them.

The only suspension parts that you'll replace with a lift will be the rear springs, and possibly the front torsion arms. A body lift involves even fewer suspension parts.

 

[Toasty]

OEM OEM OEM, 555's have been OK and would probably last a while on stock tires. I've gotten 555's out of moog boxes, name brands are a crap shoot anymore. My last set of moog lower ball joints lasted about 40 miles (with 35's) though, went OEM after and logged about 5k miles on those (including wheeling the Rubicon)and they're flawless. The NOS UCA's didn't survive the 'Con, they were a little dry and the bushings wouldn't roll in their bore so they tore instead. If you get OEM UCA's twist the rubber with a wrench and see before taking them home from the dealership.
A close friend tried the Proforged chromoly joints, they lasted about 4k miles on 35's with just a few wheeling trips. Really depends on what your plans are for your truck, i just got a set of Spicer ball joints for my Montero so we'll see how those hang ?