New NP/Gen III Owner - some intial observations (looong...)

Dr Gonzo

New member
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum, so I thought I'd introduce myself and my new-to-me vehicle. I currently live in Mexico, although because of my work I've lived in Japan and the US. My adventure travel vehicles of choice used to be bikes, first a 1993 KLR650 and later on an '03 F650GS Dakar and an 05-ish 400cc KTM Enduro (EXC I think? I can never remember). I still own those but since my GF won't get on a bike I've started the switch to more... "accomodating" vehicles.

Previously I had an '01 Nissan Pathfinder (R50), which unfortunately ate a huge rock on a side road and got totaled. Now I've replaced it with an '03 NP/Gen III Montero/Pajero limited. It is a 3.8 V6 gas version, bought it with a claimed 80,000 kms / 50,000 miles. It's currently stock save for an unusual plastic oem looking front push bar (previous owner) and 245/75 R16 Michelin LTX AT2's instead of the original size 255/70 R16s (just swapped them this weekend).

Here's a pic from the ad, hope it works. I haven't taken any pics of my own:
<pic deleted> (old photo)


My use is mostly short (3days-1 week) excursions, which will tipycally be about 500-1000km on road and then the last 100-200km on dirt roads/trails of often unpredictable degrees of difficulty. Of course those last dirt km's typically take as long or longer than the entire road portion ofthe trip, hence the need for this vehicle. I don't really do any hard core 4x4 (at least not planned!) but I almost always need high ground clearance and hi range 4wd and some low range for larger obstacles and steep inclines.

Some observations I´ve gathered from my first few days with the Monty:
- It's HUGE inside, particulary compared to the rather compact Pathy.
- Mine does not have an LSD, which is disappointing. It doesn't have traction control either, so I'll have to do something about the rear axle, maybe a locker down the road.
- Visibility is great. One of the selling points for me. I love the driving position and the huge glass all around. Except the side view mirrors which imo are poor in traffic.. maybe they were designed to spot stampeding elephants and not commuter traffic.
- It's slow and thirsty compared to the R50... which was expected. The engine also seems rougher than the VQ35. Still I hope a tuneup (big service is due, belts, filters... the works) will improve the 15mpg mixed city/hwy I'm getting. It seems too low to me for an unmodified, non lifted Monty.
- The ride on graded dirt roads (no real offroad yet) is awesome... much better than the R50, especially when loaded (R50's rear suspensions suck when loaded).

Right now my plans are just to bring it up to date on all maintenance and start using it more so I know what I'd like to improve.

I do have a couple of q's in case anyone has read this far :sombrero:
- Is anyone else using 245/75 R16's? Seemed to me a good size to get slightly more clearance and better traction off road vs the stock size on a non lifted Monty. I went with P's instead of LT's (Michelin LTX AT2) because I thought going to 45+ psi was going to make the long road journeys rather uncomfortable. They should have raised the vehicle aprox 0.3" over stock size and I have found no clearance issues.

- Here we have to get emissions checks and they will mount the rr wheels on a roller with the fronts stationary. The R50 (with part time 4x4) was checked fully stationary (no rear wheels on roller); but not the Monty, can this harm the viscous center transfer if left in 2wd for the check? It triggers the ABS light, but that goes off a minute after driving off. At least the Monty passed, the R50 was always failing, and replacing 4 (!) cats is not my idea of a good time.

- If I'm already going to be getting 15mpg I might as well just go ahead and lift it... how big of an MPG hit can be expected with a moderate (2"?) lift?

Thanks for reading, I hope to go on a trip soon and be able to share some experiences more valuable than just first impressions! :elkgrin:
 
Last edited:

Dr Gonzo

New member
:oops:

I think I just answered my own question regarding tire size. Stock size should be 265/70 16, which is about 30.7" O.D. vs 245/75 which is 30.5". My car came with 255/70 (30.2" OD) and tirerack.com also lists this size as stock (incorrectly, of course). So... I was thinking I went up in diameter vs stock, when I actually went a little bit smaller. Next time I'll have to remember to RTFM!! Still, my new 245/70s are very close to the 265/70s and larger than what I had, so it should be ok... :bike_rider:

I'm feeling pretty foolish right now :eek: ... I'll just have to watch the pressure and cargo weight since I went down in load rating from 111 to 109; this still rates above max GVWR, but down from stock nonetheless... My original/never used spare at 265/70 16 was the confirming tell tale.
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
I'm running 265/75/16's with a 2'' lift with no problems.
As for running LT tires at 45 psi, I run 35 psi around town when unladen and only air up when putting highway miles on our way to an expedition.

In my experience, the MPG mostly changes with tire size increase. I'm not sure if it'll change with only a lift...
I get in the "high teens" fully loaded on the highway. It naturally goes down the minute we pull off highway and start changing the transfer case.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
ARB does make a locker for the Gen III IRS suspension IIRC. I don't know if any others exist. IIRC, Mitsu only offered LSD's with the Gen III but I'm far from being 'knowledgeable' on them.

Motorcare.com.au offers a number of upgrade parts for them also although I'm not sure you'd be interested with the Australian dollar being very strong right now.

I'd definitely have all the maintenance work done on time since that's probably an interference engine... meaning if the timing belt breaks you will damage your valves and possibly head/pistons.
 

Dr Gonzo

New member
Thanks for the comments!

Next thing on the list is definitely maintenance. I'll change oil, filters, timing belt, water pump and probably diff and tranny oil. I also just noticed a chip on the windshield so that will have to get taken care of before I do anything else.

I did take an opportunity for a brief shakedown of sorts at a mountain trail near home. It is "Nevado de Toluca", one of Mexico's higher peaks (4690 meters). There's an unimproved trail that climbs to a microwave antenna station at about 4200meters. It is mostly hardpack, with some muddy hairpins. The Montero climbed efortlessly, only when I attempted some obstacles that the ATV's ride, did the open diffs make their presence known by spinning diagonally opposed wheels. For normal climbing I only had to lock the center coupling (diff? t/case?) a couple of times and it was only to make sure I didn't spin any wheels and damage the trail.

Near the end of the road:

Monty@nevado by xipe-totec, on Flickr

down into the clouds:

looking down by xipe-totec, on Flickr

I don't like silver cars, but buying used it's hard to choose... from now on I guess I'll call it "cloud camo":

Monty+Pacha by xipe-totec, on Flickr
It was fun up above the clouds when the sweaty and tired enduro bike riders couldn't believe their eyes when looking at a "mall cruiser" casually parked up there and me playing with the dog as if we were in the neighborhood park :sombrero:

Cheers!
 

Dr Gonzo

New member
Oil - switch to Synth?

I have searched on Mitsu forums as well as Chrysler/Dodge forums and can't really find any info. Would you guys recommend switching over to synthetic oil after aprox 80,000km (50k miles) on mineral? I usually run synth on all my cars, and [really expensive] synth on my bikes with great results. But now I'm concerned about leaks switching over to synth after that many miles on dino... On the other hand I do NOT trust anything that has even been near the Chrysler pentastar, and this 3.8V6 is a Chrysler motor it seems, so synth may allow it to live a bit longer than typical Chrysler/Dodge.

Any input is appreciated, thanks!
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
I have searched on Mitsu forums as well as Chrysler/Dodge forums and can't really find any info. Would you guys recommend switching over to synthetic oil after aprox 80,000km (50k miles) on mineral? I usually run synth on all my cars, and [really expensive] synth on my bikes with great results. But now I'm concerned about leaks switching over to synth after that many miles on dino... On the other hand I do NOT trust anything that has even been near the Chrysler pentastar, and this 3.8V6 is a Chrysler motor it seems, so synth may allow it to live a bit longer than typical Chrysler/Dodge.

Any input is appreciated, thanks!

1st, it's a Mitsu engine and it's likely Chrysler borrowed the engine for their vehicles and not the other way around.:)

2nd, switching to synthetic in the engine should be fine so long as you're meeting the original oil specifications required for the vehicle. These specs are not the sane as the recommended viscosity/weight specs.

3rd, DO NOT switch to a synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid unless you're 200% positive and willing to put your vehicle on the line that it is compatible with your mitsubishi transmission. I personally know someone who thought he ought to switch to Mobil 1 synthetic because it said it was compatible with Mitsu Auto Tranny's. It was not compatible with his Montero Transmission! It cost him $4K to rebuild his tranny because the wrong fluid completely destroyed key parts.:Wow1:

4th, enjoy the ride!:ylsmoke:

Beautiful pics btw.
 

kuroi

Chief mud inspector
Switching to synth is fine it wont cause leaks, also as for granny fluid I've had stellar results with eneos sp3
 

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