Northern Lites Owners any problems with leaks

sisu

Adventurer
OK, just finished another road trip that took me home to Alaska and back to the Lower 48 where it seems I am going to be stuck because of a dwelling we cannot sell, so we are going to reside in it until it does. That is not the dilemma though.
I took several pictures of the wet areas in our used 1994 9.6 . We love the camper, don't get me wrong every thing is working well, a fix here and there and we are happy as clams. But this leak is driving me nuts.

We don't have any problems except when driving down the road in a down pour, then the rear 1/3 gets REAL wet. We arrived in the Lower 48 Sunday and Tuesday I pulled the battery compartment out to look inside to see if I could spot a weakness where water could be coming in. One area of interest that we have sealed and removed all ability to use is the storage compartment for the sewer hose. I've butyl taped off seam, installed two plugs in the hole one from the inside and one from the outside next I'll probably tape off the door to limit any possibility of a leak not to mention preventing the sewer hose from dripping on the inside of the camper hull. We had standing water below the plywood floor in the back when I took the battery case out. It was not visible but I stuck my fingers into tight areas and found it. I have actually thought about installing scuppers to drain the water. I remember seeing something that looked like a 1/4 in to 1/2 rubber tube in a boat or amphibious vehicle that had something like this to drain off excess water. IF anyone has a link to these type of scuppers send me the link via a PM.I called Keith at NL and spoke with him about the problem and he said as it is used there could be a myriad of problems that we don't know about. But he did say if I have the time, and I do as I've been laid off, to remove every fastener and apply RV Proflex to each one and reinstall them, so we are ordering the material as well as some more butyl tape, 3M 5200 Sealant for areas that we don't need to access. We did apply this to the top of the clam shell seal that goes around the camper before our second long trip this summer, now we are going to apply it to the bottom of the seam as well to take care of any problem that we my have missed.
Also going to buy some Sikaflex 252 to apply where we notice some de-lamination taking place between the fiberglass and the foam.

If anyone has any other suggestions please suggest them to us so we can get some more elbow grease into the project. I know the camper was not taken care of like my wife and I take care of our things from the get go, but now that we own it maybe just maybe we can save this old boy from total decay.
 

Photomike

White Turtle Adventures & Photography
Okay I will see how much I can get out before my fingers give up :sombrero:

First the bad news

1 - Water can and does travel in the camper, case in point I have had a couple situations with the fresh water storage tank at the front of the camper and I have found water all the way back by the bathroom with no sign that it came from the front. I located the leak at the front, stopped the problem and away went the water at the back.

2 - If you are getting water in when driving this is the hardest thing to track down as the water is being driven into the unit and can cause the water to take a route that it normally wouldn't (water flowing up hill is not a normal occurrence but add 100kmph driving rain and it does). The other thing is to try and duplicate it when sitting still is almost impossible.

Now the good news

1 - If you have a Northern Lite or Bigfoot you have a shell with very few ways that water can get in.

2 - With a little detective work you can eliminate many potential issues that could be causing the problem.

What to do

(Side note - I have found on my NL that all the screws that I have checked that were in from when it was built have rusted out - mine is a 1992 and was before stainless was used - so I have started a replacement program to change out the old screws with new stainless and at the same time fill the holes with a filler to make the screws grab. I figure that this will help with many potential issues, and it looks better with new screws :Wow1: )

The seam - I have not seen (or heard) of a NL or Bigfoot that has had seam issues. This is one area that is very well designed and built. Partially it is because the overlap of the seam and partially because there is less flex here than in other places. I would still check this, working more on the front and the vertical areas as this is where water can enter then travel.

Back Door - In some major rain storms I have stopped and opened the back door to find the inside of the door wet. When I checked into this I found that the top of my door is slightly slanted out and this is where water can enter. It snakes its way across the top, then runs off the back, gets caught in the whirl wind at the back door and gets into the door. I have a rain shield above the door but it seems to let some of the water get in. How much? So far enough to make the mat at the back door VERY damp and the floor with some water laying around. Solution - I replaced weather stripping around the door and since have not been in a huge rain storm to see if it works.

Windows - Check to make sure that the drain holes at the bottom of the windows are clean. They are designed to drain out water that gets inside the track and if they are not clean will cause water to flow over and into the camper. This has been a big issue with some at the front cab window, water is driven under the cab over and onto the window, fills the track and overflows. As well check, clean and lubricate the rubber so you know that it is as flexible as possible for a closer fit. Resealing the metal window frame to the camper is also a good process - with windows almost better to do a complete remove of the frame, clean and reseal if you have the time and patience.

Roof vents - This has been one of two areas that has tested me. Sealing the roof vent is not the only issue here, you need to check around the vent to make sure that it has no cracks in the plastic. The one in the cab over of my unit drove me NUTS!!!!! I resealed, I cleaned the seals, I did everything. Finally I gave up and replaced the entire unit, on replacing the unit I found that not only did every screw rust out of the unit but under the cover the plastic was cracked and water was running down the roof, hitting the vent and running up. It was then running inside the vent to the lower right side and entering the camper. I tried everything. So far the replacement is working 100% but we have not had a lot of rain. This could also be happening with the vent in the bathroom and the water running down the inside of the wall of the shower and getting to the floor without you seeing it.

Sewer vent(s) - Make sure that you have tops on the sewer vents. These get knocked off easily and lets water get into this area. The inside of the vent is not sealed so water can enter this area and flow down into the roof. I made a metal strap to go over the vent top and hold it in place as mine was missing when I got it, I replaced it and lost it on the second trip (did find it laying on the road under a tree at the campground).

Stove vent, fridge, water heater access (also other cut outs for the windows and the roof vents) - When I first got the NL I had a river flowing out of the stove exhaust vent and onto the counter. I figured that the water was coming into the vent and running down the wall. I looked for a new vent cover to stop this but all that I found where locked from the outside and I was too short to reach. The spring I got the TC was wet and each day I was cleaning up a pile of water, resealing the cover, removing cover in major rain storm and resealing and doing it over and over. Finally after just about going nuts I took the exhaust fan out and found that the hole that was cut for the vent cover was bigger than it should have been (especially on the front edge where they drilled the starting hole for the saw) and this area was letting water come in and flow down the wall. I took some caulking and built up the cut out, sloping the caulking to the outside (higher to the inside - lower to the outside) so if any water came in then it would flow outside. That stopped it. Did have to fix this spring as the caulking was breaking down.

Water lines/drain - I know that this is a shot in the dark (pun intended) as you say it only happens in a rain (but thought that I would toss this in). You could have a loose fitting line that is leaking when bouncing down the road. I try to never run with the pump on and try to release the pressure in the water lines just in case. A good way to do a quick check is the next time that you are in the unit leave the pump powered on, if it cycles without running water it is time to check the fresh water lines. Also you may want to check your drains to make sure that they have not come loose.

Okay finally, you will hear from some people that doing a leak/pressure test is a good way to find this problem. I would not go this route at this time as if it is only happening when driving then it may be other areas that I have mentioned above that have nothing to do with an actual leak. I would not say never do this but I would do the caulking and checking first, if that does not do it then I would do the pressure check.
 
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sisu

Adventurer
Photomike, thanks a million. You sure gave me a good list to measure my process against. I am redoing all the butyl tape at the fan vent, battery box as we speak. Tomorrow I'll re-install the vent as I did some funky repair to enhance its weather proofness.
I am going to take all the lights off in the rear end replace the butyl the screw back together with RV Proflex on the threads as well as a bead around each item that has a hole for itself in the shell. Anything that needs a bead but need not be removed gets hit with 3M 5200.
I also am adding more foam insulation to empty spaces I have found. We also removed the linoleum and placed indoor/outdoor carpeting in the unit.

I like fixing as long as the fixes are the right ones. As far as the leak test goes I may do that later, but right now I know there are certain things that need to be done. BYW I am going to remove every outside screw & put RV Proflex on each one before re-installing them.
 

saltamontes

Observer
photomike said:

"..change out the old screws with new stainless and at the same time fill the holes with a filler to make the screws grab."

yes, when i installed my custom roof rack i was surprised how little holding power was afforded by wood screws into the non-backed fiberglass shell (as NL installs their luggage and boat rack).
i used a syringe to inject high strength fiberglass impregnated epoxy into the holes to create a "balloon" backing into which i screwed the stainless screws.
i also used 3m 5200 as a sealant/adhesive as well under the radiused load plate of the rack.
i removed the useless NL luggage rack and that got rid of quite a few roof penetrations which had a measly butyl backing.
eternabond is your friend here as well.
 

BillTex

Adventurer
At this point I would pressure test. Whether you do it yourself or pay a Tech $100...it should be worthwhile.
 

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