Older (95ish) Disco issues?

[redthies]

Hi guys. I am a Landcruiser guy for the most part but have always had an interest in the rovers. I am seeing a lot of older Discos up for sale lately for stupid cheap. Obviously, like most cars, as they come off warranty and dealer only parts fail it gets expensive. Can you guys give me an idea of what the main issues are on the Discos and D2s? Which are the good years to look for?
I will want it for dd and offroading duty. Probably towing as well. Thanks for the input!

 

[KevinNY]

Like an 80 series LC the power is adequate but not spectacular, neither are ideal tow vehicles but have no problem with a light trailer or small boat.

The Disco series 1 and 2 are almost completely different vehicles sans the drivetrains. Axles, suspension, brakes ,wheels have no crossover.

The best D2 was the 2004, best brakes,stronger 4.6 V8, and nice CDL shifter from the factory.

Toyota has the rover V8 completely outclassed in terms of longevity but having the heads done is not out of the question for a decent do it yourselfer, still more complicated than the Toy straight 6 though.

Depending on how hard you are going to wheel it and with what tire size I should point out that Disco 1's upgrade to stock toyota diffs and axles as an upgrade.

 

[Antichrist]

Issues I've had with mine with approx price where I can remember (bought in 2001 with 98k, currently 250k)
Not in order.
Radiator needed recoring $250
New viscous fan clutch - $65
New Clutch master and slave - ~$150 for both
New stop light switch - ~$50 but can get same Delco part for ~$15 I think.
New heater pipes (replaced core at same time because it's a pain to get to) < $200
One new window switch
Sun Roof ECU failed, didn't replace
Rebuilt propshafts ("routine" maint, not due to failure) ~ $70 each
New Starter ~$290
Leaking sunroofs requiring me to redo the headliner
Replaced brake MC, calipers, rotors, flex lines, but went to D90 brakes so total cost was ~$500 all told, I think, which was more than if I'd stayed with D1 brakes.
New intake manifold gasket and injectors and fuel rail

 

[muskyman]

the 94 and 95 disco's are the most basic as they use a distributor based ignition and the very stable reliable 14cux ECU.

These years also have the 3.9 lt engine and dont seam to suffer from the number of randon headgasket failures and the sticking valve issues the 96-late 97 4.0 did.

All of the D1's are really very reliable if they have regular attention to the basics. Where they start having issues is when people start doing things half a$$ed. Things like putting a 3" lift on one without correcting the driveline angles. that will shake them apart andwhen I say shake them apart I have seen where I can turn out head bolts with my bare hands...and then people wonder why they blow a head gasket..LOL

If you have never driven a disco driving a old one with lots of miles can give you a false idea of how they are meant to drive. The suspension bushings in the old ones are often less then perfect and this gives them a sloppy feel that makes them body roll and wander more then they should.

If you get one plan to start with a pretty complete once over and refresh and you will end up with a reliable DD that will amaze you off-road.

 

[Scott Brady]

My 1995 Disco has been flawless until last week (over 1.5 years of reliability). The fuel pump failed and then the connector to the fuel pump. I have the records from the previous owner (always dealer serviced) and the had its share of issues.

I think the 1994-1995 has the greatest opportunity for reliability and serviceability. I owned a 2001 DII for about two years - I would not recommend the 1999-2003 DII. I would consider a 2004, as they have a reputation for being more reliable and have a factory center diff lock.

I own and use Toyotas, Jeeps, Land Rovers and G-Wagens. If reliability is a major requirement for your vehicle, buy and drive Toyotas. Interestingly, the JK Wranglers have been flawless as well. You can see the influence of Mercedes in the build quality.

 

[pangaea]

Between the 94s and 95s, I'd go for the 95. It seems to have had more of the bugs worked out of it, and it also has a single serpentine belt compared to the compound belt set up on the 94. Fewer spares to bring along on expedition.

 

[muskyman]

Between the 94s and 95s, I'd go for the 95. It seems to have had more of the bugs worked out of it, and it also has a single serpentine belt compared to the compound belt set up on the 94. Fewer spares to bring along on expedition.

all north american disco's have serpentine belts.

I own a 94 and it has been every bit as reliable as the many 95's I have worked on. the one issue the 94's all have is the dash rolling up...in the end that has been a good thing as it keeps stuff from rolling down into the air vents

 

[BKCowGod]

My family's old '95 went 180k without a single fault that could not be directly attributed to human error (bent the exhaust into a pretzel, and the LR mechanic at Stevens Creek LR forgot to put fluid back into the diff after scheduled maint).

The only thing that ever stopped it was a Ford F150. That aluminum hood really took a beating.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

We bought the first '94 registered in the State and it's still going strong.

Repairs - hoses, brakes, belts, ignition components, a transfer case so leakey that I just swapped Rob Dassler for a rebuilt one several years back, a driveshaft that didn't like being shaped like a pretzel (possibly my fault), a penchant for alternators (I carry a spare and it seems to know as it hasn't failed for a few years)...oh, and rust.

It's pervasive here in the Midwest, I don't know what your winter road treatment is like in B.C., but we rely on salt...lots of salt, here in Iowa So carefully inspect under the vehicle, under the carpets and at all the body / door seams and edges.

Of course, the Disco has seen its share of mud, rocks, streams, etc. While servicing the D90 last weekend, I was amazed to be reminded of what the Disco used to look like underneath.....the CINC won't let me play with her Defender....that's because she's smarter than I am


/edit/ I forgot - Musky's right; all NA Discos have the serpentine belt drive....and my dash was indeed replaced under warranty....along with that headlamp that managed to develop a crack in the lens...right after the hot glass was submerged in cold water..hmmmm....

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I've had a 2004 for 1.5 years. In that time it's had...

1)Carpets were soaked and floor starting to rust. Took it to the dealer who blamed it on a bad aftermarket windshield replacement. I believe them, it's a mess. But at the same time, they did a TSB on the sunroof drain system. I ended up gutting the interior, fixed the windshield, and re-fixed the sunroof drain systems. Cost was almost nothing (some misc. sealant) other than 2 wasted trips to the dealer.

2)The first winter, while using cruise control, the engine would "hiccup" after cruising for too long at one speed. For a while I thought there was a serious problem as it got pretty severe, one trip we were wondering if we were going to get home. Dealer said "No problem found". The problem seemed to go away in the spring, and never came back. I thought it would come back in the winter again maybe, but nope. No clue.

3)Leak at the upper rad bleed hose. Replaced with a new ~3" section of 1/4" hose. Couple bucks.

4)Needed new rear brakes, I bought the Ferodo kit from AB, for all 4 wheels for $800 or whatever it was, did the rears, front are waiting until they are needed.

That's it. Not too bad I'd say.

You can see the influence of Mercedes in the build quality.

I did work for them 2004-2006, I couldn't see any cross-over of technology or quality on the programs I worked on (JK, minivan, Ram, Durango, Caliber). Their focus on showroom build quality (panel fit, interiors, etc.) was absolutely incredible, however.

 

[Antichrist]

First, you won't find a '95 D2 since they didn't come out until '99.
So I'm not sure if you knew that and also want D2 information, or if you didn't know it.

Thom reminded me I've also done all my suspension bushings and A-Frame ball joint. But that would be expected on a 250k mile truck.
Scott reminded me I replaced my fuel pump also, ~ $75.
Hmmm..maybe I should dig out my receipts lol

I've probably done some other more minor repairs I'm forgetting, but that's all the major stuff.
The gearbox is getting a little sloppy on shifting but I will blame that on using the owner's manual recomended ATF fluid up until about 20k miles ago.

 

[muskyman]

Good point Tom

the 94-95's are a bit clunky compared to the later ones.

I replaced mine with a long spline 'Q' box and that really tightened the whole thing up to a great extent. The cost of late model LT230 TC's has really dropped alot, they can be found for under $200 in some cases. When looking for one just make sure to get the long spline intermediate shaft with the TC.

 

[redthies]

Good insights all. My wife will be thrilled to hear no issues with the JK as that is her pick for her next one. I am seeing a lot of 95s for $3-$4000 canadian. I have only driven my sister in laws 2003 D2. It was nice, even with the blown headgasket:elkgrin: I think all the bushing "squissues" will be dealt with when I lift whatever I buy... Stock height sucks in rocky and muddy cross ditches! Thanks for all the comments.

 

[muskyman]

Good insights all. My wife will be thrilled to hear no issues with the JK as that is her pick for her next one. I am seeing a lot of 95s for $3-$4000 canadian. I have only driven my sister in laws 2003 D2. It was nice, even with the blown headgasket:elkgrin: I think all the bushing "squissues" will be dealt with when I lift whatever I buy... Stock height sucks in rocky and muddy cross ditches! Thanks for all the comments.

just to let you know bushings are not really a normal part of a rover lift, allthough they should be addressed if they are questionable.

once you get to a 3" lift there are really alot of things that should be done at the same time to make the truck drive correctly and to restore the stability that a lift will compromise.

 

[evilfij]

They are not so bad, but they will drive you nuts with stupid stuff.

I have a 1995 RRC (similar to the DI) and 1995 D90 (similar to DI) and had two 1996 discos in the past.

As said here, look for a 1994/95 DI without rust and that has not been completely neglected. Early 1994s had metal headgaskets, I prefer the later composite ones (there is some debate).

All this being said, if you want an older rover, buy a 1995 Range Rover Classic. Other than being a rust bucket and needing some maintaince items (alternator, water pump, brakes etc.) mine has been great.