Optima Hissing

[AxeAngel]

Got the Rover back today (new engine). We had some issues with the battery being dead and not accepting a charge. I told the guys at the shop how to charge it (wire inline with a good battery and trickle charge). Rig started up fine, drove 30 miles to get the Benz, back from dealer(balance shaft sensor - new motor, under warranty).

Get home and pop the hood to check out all the new goodies on the rover and notice its REALLY hot, hotter than usual, and theres a noise. The optima is very hot and making hissing sounds.

Anyone ever encounter this? I googled. Just want firsthand knowledge

Thanks
-Sam

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

yep...overcharged...fryed...start yer rover and check the voltage at the battery..if its more than 15volt it may have smoked your volt-regulator and cooked itself.

 

[Robert Bills]

I regret to tell you, you cooked your battery.

BTDT

Time to go battery shopping.

 

[AxeAngel]

yep...overcharged...fryed...start yer rover and check the voltage at the battery..if its more than 15volt it may have smoked your volt-regulator and cooked itself.

Any damage to the truck? What should i check for?

I regret to tell you, you cooked your battery.

BTDT

Time to go battery shopping.

Any damage to rig? How much time do i have?

-Sam

 

[wrcsixeight]

An overcharged battery is never a good thing. When sealed batteries whistle, That is the valve releasing pressure, and electrolyte in the form of hydrogen gas.

Hydrogen gas and spark can go boom.

You need to put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running. It most likely is over 15 volts.

If the alternator is externally regulated, it had two field wires. If one of these has chafed and is touching ground, you alternator will put out it's absolute maximum for the rpm it is at.

I wouldn't drive it with a hissing Optima.

Try and follow the 2 thinner wires from the back of the alternator to their source.

 

[AxeAngel]

An overcharged battery is never a good thing. When sealed batteries whistle, That is the valve releasing pressure, and electrolyte in the form of hydrogen gas.

Hydrogen gas and spark can go boom.

You need to put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running. It most likely is over 15 volts.

If the alternator is externally regulated, it had two field wires. If one of these has chafed and is touching ground, you alternator will put out it's absolute maximum for the rpm it is at.

I wouldn't drive it with a hissing Optima.

Try and follow the 2 thinner wires from the back of the alternator to their source.

Thanks for the note. It's a discovery II, so internally regulated alternator. Any other ideas?

-Sam

 

[wrcsixeight]

Remove, file, and tightly replace all the grounds you can find. Look for any white or green corrosion.

Could be the alternator too. Have it tested

 

[ntsqd]

WASH the area around the battery thoroughly!

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

WASH the area around the battery thoroughly!

with gloves and saftey glasses on...acid burns BAD...

 

[dzzz]

I'm confused. New Engine, new goodies?
You have people somewhere you instruct on battery charging?

 

[AxeAngel]

I'm confused. New Engine, new goodies?
You have people somewhere you instruct on battery charging?

Yup new engine. A few of the 2003 4.6l motors had casting imperfections on the block. Consequently the oil pump didn't line up perfectly and often failed before 60k miles. I was fortunate and made it to 120k miles. My old motor with the failed oil pump was rebuildable as I immediately turned off the car. Bearings and new headgaskets and I sold the motor. I bought a 4.6l motor with only 10k miles, all new gaskets and cleaned up the head(donor truck had 60k miles, rolled the truck), didn't know the truck had a fresh engine unde warranty until we opened her up. My mistake for not checking. Cost me a couple hundred in a rebuild.

Add in some new cams, upgraded ignition, replumbed coolant system to bypass stock thermostat and I have a good little motor to match the upgraded tcase I dropped in 2,000 miles ago.

Once an optima goes completely dead they don't accept a charge easily. You need to wire them inline with a good battery and then trickle charge. 90% of the time it works. I've never had a battery hiss and make these sounds before though.

Did a battery test, the battery passed. 13.9v. CCA was 732, rated for 710.
Alternator also passed load test. I did fail the drain test. 2.59A drain.

Not sure if that's from the battery shorting or a short somewhere else. Need to diagnose that.

Anybody got any other ideas? Can a battery that has gone bad still pass a battery test? Thinking i should just toss the battery since the smell, heat and sound is quite concerning.

-Sam

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

a battery thats gone bad can still pass the test...but the snag is that you cant check the optimas with the float tester....cus its sealed..

 

[AxeAngel]

a battery thats gone bad can still pass the test...but the snag is that you cant check the optimas with the float tester....cus its sealed..

Ahhh makes sense. Thanks a lot.

Any ideas on the power drain? 2.5A is a lot, but the truck starts right up after sitting for over 16hrs... Which leads me to believe the drain is only temporary. Could the battery be short circuiting?

-Sam

 

[TurboChris]

I've had optimas go "bad" before from non use.....in fact I have a like new one sitting in my warehouse right now that won't charge. Can you give me details on this? Wire in line? can I use jumper cables? How long does it usually take? Links?

Thanks!!

Chris

Once an optima goes completely dead they don't accept a charge easily. You need to wire them inline with a good battery and then trickle charge. 90% of the time it works.

-Sam

 

[TurboChris]

Nevermind....for future searchs... heres a link

http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/resuscitating_agmbattery.php