Overland 2017 JKU Rubicon with stock suspension sag (and lift/spring/shock considerations).

[Dan101]

I have a '17 JKU Rubicon that has 100% stock suspension. It has a Gobi Roof Rack, Smittybilt Atlas Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, Rugged Ridge XHD Bumper and Smittybilt X20 Winch. In all, an easy +400 lbs of exterior weight. Plus the added things on the inside like hard top liners, seat covers, whatever. All small weight additions but it all adds up. I pack heavy and do often take a trailer. Also, I may be adding other items like rooftop tent and awning and some of the other overland gear you see around.

So I measured my heights all around because the thing looks squat and sagged. I owned a stock '13 Rubi and remember it being much higher. From ground through center of wheel hub to bottom of fenders in front is 35" and rear is 34 1/2". I'm guessing I'm maybe 2 1/2" sagged from a stock JKU Rubicon of the same year. I did take measurement from the bump stop lip to the platform which should be 5.75" (if memory serves) and I was just a hint over 3" so I've lost 2 1/2 inches from weight for sure. Obviously I'm not doing much off-roading until I get this corrected.

This is my list of components thus far. As is, about $2,700. I know some items are optional, I don't need all the control arms and such. But I'm looking for anything I may be missing to make this work. I don't want to start and not be able to finish the install. I don't have a secondary mode of transportation. I'm thinking I may need a bracket for the rear track-bar, bump stops, sway bar disconnect arms, other items? I'm looking for any and all input. I'm not looking for upgrading to $500 shocks or switching brands unless there is a good reason. This is more of a, will this work, am I missing something kind of thing.

I've attached an image with typical daily driver load. Keep in mind I have no camping gear inside, on top, nor trailer in this photo.

Thank you.

Old Man Emu 2619 2" Lift Front Heavy Load (90-180lbs) Coil Spring Pair

Old Man Emu 2620 2.25" Lift Rear Heavy Load (660lbs) Coil Spring Pair

Old Man Emu 60067 Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shock

Old Man Emu 60066M (Mid Length) Front Nitrocharger Sport Shock

Old Man Emu 0 OMESD48 Steering Stabilizer with Relocation Bracket

Old Man Emu OMEJKPR10 10mm Rear Trim Spacer

Old Man Emu OMEJKPF10 10mm Front Trim Spacer

Teraflex 2610000 Exhaust Spacer Kit

JKS Manufacturing JKS2290 JKS Brake Line Relocation Brackets for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 0"-4.5" Lift

Core4x4 Front Track Bar T3 (Yellow) 0-6 inch lift

Core4x4 Rear Track Bar T3 (Yellow) 0-6 inch lift

Core4x4 Control Arms Complete Set T3 (Yellow) 0-6 inch lift, + hardware

 

[that_dude]

Looks good. I’d say yes, get a rear track bar bracket. I like the AEV and Mopar brackets. If your electric disco works, you can just move the rear swaybar links to the front and get longer ones for the rear. I’d get the Teraflex universal brake line brackets for the front. You probably won’t need that exhaust spacer—depends on how long those shocks are. Lasty—not really necessary—but I like the Rugged Ridge 18303.60 Parking Brake Relocation Bracket—cheap so not a bad throw in, but you can just let the cables hang.

 

[Dan101]

Looks good. I’d say yes, get a rear track bar bracket. I like the AEV and Mopar brackets. If your electric disco works, you can just move the rear swaybar links to the front and get longer ones for the rear. I’d get the Teraflex universal brake line brackets for the front. You probably won’t need that exhaust spacer—depends on how long those shocks are. Lasty—not really necessary—but I like the Rugged Ridge 18303.60 Parking Brake Relocation Bracket—cheap so not a bad throw in, but you can just let the cables hang.

Thank you for the response. I'll go look for both brackets.

 

[Dan101]

So, I've added the following. Still debating which sway bar links to go with, perhaps the ones that can but cut to fit for the rear, then relocated the back ones to the front. And bump stops. I'm thinking of buying stack-able/adjustable ones so I can dial them in better or change down the road since i won't have new tires/wheels for a bit.

Rugged Ridge Parking Brake Relocation Bracket

JKS Manufacturing OGS170 Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK with 2"+ Lift

Skyjacker JKFTB Front Track Bar Bracket for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK with 2.5"-5" Lift

 

[BroncoHound]

Over a month old, so I'm sure this is outdated, but here are a few notes:

- You won't need the front track bar bracket for only 2" of lift. You will benefit from the rear one though (along with an adjustable bar).
- Your money will be better spent on different control arms. Those Core arms use a polyurethane bushing on one end that is just as soft and prone to deflection as the stock arms. Also at your height, you don't need all 8. You'd be better off to buy better quality arms and only get front LCAs and rear UCAs. Or, if you really want the full adjustability, spend a bit more and get higher quality all around. Synergy, MetalCloak, and Rock Krawler (in that order) would be my personal preference. Synergy really gets the nod for me due to the durometer bushings AND the ability to adjust each arm without dropping it. Especially with all 8 control arms, dialing in your alignment/axle positions/pinion angles can be a pretty major PITA because you have so many adjustment points. Being able to fine tune without dropping each arm and retorquing after is a major headache reliever.
- Any adjustable rear sway bar end links will be fine. Pick whatever your favorite aftermarket brand and/or whatever fits in your budget. Then just move the stock rear end links to the front and call it a day. No sweat there.
- The stackable bump stops are your best bet so you can tailor the amount of bump specifically to your rig when laden down to ensure you don't get into the fenders. Again, just pick your favorite aftermarket brand here. All the major brands are of a similar quality.

I'm curious as to what made you decide on the ARB OME springs and shocks? I have a new JLUR on order and, like you, will be weighing her down as my gear loadout increases so have been preemptively looking at suspensions. I've done a bunch of JK's and TJ's in years past, but they've all been built with max articulation and road manners in mind and less thought as to weight loading. Since this vehicle (my first 4-door Jeep) will be loaded down far more than any of my previous, the spring rates and shock combinations have been of particular interest to me. So far I've narrowed it down (if you can even call it that) to Synergy, MetalCloak, Rock Krawler, AEV, and Clayton springs. To be honest, I hadn't even really considered the OME springs, though I sure will now. What qualities made you arrive at them?

 

[SBSYNCRO]

If you want to go with OME shocks, call Dirk at DPG Offroad - I have seen him referenced numerous times on the wrangler forums as a very experienced and knowledgeable source for picking the right OME spring. There's also a guy on wranglerforum.com called "Pressurized" that posts a lot about various manufacturers spring rates, so you might try searching some of his posts.

 

[shays4me]

I will chime in with what I did on my JKUR which is actually quite similar to your plans and how it worked out. I installed OME 2619 and 2618 springs, trim packers up front, 60066m front shocks and 60067 rears. If you use the standard front shock (60066) it is the same length extended as a facory rubicon shock so you will not need exhaust spacers to clear the front driveshaft. I used extended sway bar lengths from teraflex in the rear, moving the factory rear to the front as well as bump stops, and a rear track bar bracket that bolts to the axle from teraflex. Pro Comp builds a nice set of front brake line brackets that keep the oem look to late model JK's and I bought them at Summit. I've used them on two builds now and have been very happy. The rear brackets for the brake line drop are synergy. The last thing I added were Rancho control arm drop brackets for the front end. I thought they were going to be a gimic at first and then I installed them and drove the Jeep 50 feet! Awesome product. So now for how did it work out? 2618 springs are too soft for my JKUR that weighs 6400 pounds loaded and so those are in the shed and I'm now running 2620's. It handles much better on the road now and I don't get blown arond by crosswinds any more, but it is stiff when unloaded! I just got home from 1400 miles of every kind of road surface including winding highway, mountain rocky roads and dry lake bed and I think I'm dialed in. I don't have any further suspension plans and look forward to many more trips!

 

[shays4me]

Here's a couple pics of the stance fully loaded with stock KM1's that are half way worn.