Parasitic draw
- Thread starter conifers4
- Start date
A stereo amp should have a small 12v line that feeds from the head unit to switch it on and off with the stereo. If That's hooked up properly, the amp should completely shut off.
If it's really that big of a problem, put a continuous duty solenoid in the power cable, with the coil fed from the stereo remote power wire.
Is it definitely from the amp? Some people have large capacitors installed in the system as Well, and the ones with the digital voltage displays built in will apply a very small parasitic drain.
If it's really that big of a problem, put a continuous duty solenoid in the power cable, with the coil fed from the stereo remote power wire.
Is it definitely from the amp? Some people have large capacitors installed in the system as Well, and the ones with the digital voltage displays built in will apply a very small parasitic drain.
conifers4
Suburban nomad
Thank you for the reply. I will double check the 12v "remote" line to ensure it is connected firmly. I'm still getting power to the amp when everything is off and the key is out. My sturdy test light determined that. I have no fancy capacitor or anything installed. Never had this problem until the amp install. Even tried another amp with the same results..Grrr
The amp will always have power at the battery + terminal Because it's hooked straight to the battery. the remote switch wire is a 12v feed that is switched by the head unit to trigger the amp's Electrics to turn on. It's usually blue. If the remote line is connected to an always live 12v line, the amp will never turn off. The remote wire should show 12v with the head unit on, and zero (or less than 1) volt when the head unit is off. If it stays hot the whole time something is hooked up wrong at the head unit.
Back in my car stereo days I always installed a toggle switch in line with the remote line... made a very convenient quick way to kill the boom when unwanted or unwelcome.
Back in my car stereo days I always installed a toggle switch in line with the remote line... made a very convenient quick way to kill the boom when unwanted or unwelcome.
conifers4
Suburban nomad
Thank you! I will check the remote line tomorrow although the blue wire from the radio is connected to the blue wire on the amp so I don't see the problem coming from there but I will test it anyway.
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
Agreed. The wiring to the amp will always have power. Essentially the relay is inside the amp, and the blue (usually) remote wire is the trigger to turn it on.
Have you changed for any amperage? Just because the wires are hot (they should be) to the amp doesn't mean it is pulling current.
conifers4
Suburban nomad
Brian what do you mean by "Have you changed for any amperage?"
Norbullitt
New member
He probably meant if you have measured any amperage.
Like stated; even if the amp has access to power, it does not mean it draws power.
But a test lamp will not tell you that, you will need a proper instrument.
Many cheap multimeters (but not all) will be able to measure current...