Please review my dream build(s)

[MirageMobile]

Vehicle: 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4door 4WD
Currently have D30/D35 axles with 3.07 gearing and the AX-15 manual trans

Going to post my dream paper build to get it out of my head.
Theme = Expedition/Reliability/Right_the_first_time/Daily Driver

Please provide cost saving suggestions, hahaha.

~4" Lift
I've attached a zipped excel file displaying three options to achieve the ~4" lift.
I'd appreciate some major assistance here if possible.

Tire
This will be my DD.
I've put 10,000 miles on since June 2012.
Located in central virginia, so I expect minimal ice/snow.
Initially leaned AT KO for tread life, noise, less maintenance(?). Debating those now after realizing how little I drive.

1. 33x10.5 BFG KM2
2. 33x10.5 BFG AT KO


Wheel
15x8
1. Stock Eccos and spidertrax spacers (4.5" net backspacing)
2. Mamba MR1X (4.5" net backspacing)
3. AR-23 (3.75" net backspacing)

Axles
- Grabbing a Chrysler 8.25 or Ford 8.8 to replace my D35
- Gearing of 3.73 or 4.10 (prefer 3.73 using gear calcs but 4.10 D30 and Chrysler 8.25 sound easier to find).
- Leaning towards F/R Detroit Truetrac or R (truetrac) and F (e-locker)

I've attached a spreadsheet comparing axle costs. There doesn't appear to be an inexpensive route to go (JY 8.8 vs 8.8 EastCoastGears vs. JY Chrysler 8.25.
Please review my costs of these options.


Rear bumper
I'd like to incorporate the ability to add rotopax in the future to either the rear bumper or a roof rack. May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. Detours full tire carrier
2. Detours tailbone
3. JCR tire carrier
4. AJ Tanker
5. Dirtbound tire carrier
6. Hanson Tire Carrier

Front Bumper
May have the ability to use DIY kits.
In no order:
1. JCR Pre-runner

Sliders
In no order:
1. Detour
2. JCR
3. AJ
4. TNT

Steering
Whats necessary after ~4" lift and 33x10.5s?


Thanks for looking

 

[brianjwilson]

We can assume, but how about starting by telling us about the vehicle this is all for?

 

[96XJ11C]

I would assume looking at the parts list and leaning toward 3.73 gears that this is a manual trans XJ??

 

[MirageMobile]

We can assume, but how about starting by telling us about the vehicle this is all for?

I would assume looking at the parts list and leaning toward 3.73 gears that this is a manual trans XJ??

Just edited to include the vehicle. 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4door 4WD with D30/D35 (F/R) axles with 3.07 gearing and the AX-15 manual trans

Are you sure you guys needed that bit of info?

OH MAN!

 

[Stumpalump]

Throw the gear charts in the trash and put in 4.56. By the time you add the drag from the lift and the weight of the bumpers you need lower gears than those charts say. Stock gearing is on the high side to start with so the mileage numbers they provide look good. Go with an 8.8 rear for the disk breaks. Gut your pro portioning valve and that thing will stop a lot better after you mod it with lift weight and tall tires. You can get Ford Motocraft gears for it and they drop right in with no set up in most cases. With front use Dana Spicer gears for the same reason. Good luck with it and check out this guy for bumpers. http://www.nates4x4.com/category_s/1821.htm

 

[MirageMobile]

Throw the gear charts in the trash and put in 4.56. By the time you add the drag from the lift and the weight of the bumpers you need lower gears than those charts say. Stock gearing is on the high side to start with so the mileage numbers they provide look good. Go with an 8.8 rear for the disk breaks. Gut your pro portioning valve and that thing will stop a lot better after you mod it with lift weight and tall tires. You can get Ford Motocraft gears for it and they drop right in with no set up in most cases. With front use Dana Spicer gears for the same reason. Good luck with it and check out this guy for bumpers. http://www.nates4x4.com/category_s/1821.htm

Thank you stump! All of your suggestions will be taken into strong consideration.

 

[Chi-Town]

My suggestions:

4" lift for cheap = Rubicon express 3.5 super ride. Actual lift is about 4-4.5" unloaded. If you're going with a full bumper (do the detours slim line) with a big spare and Jerry cans and misc cargo it'll settle down to about 3".

4" lift for not so cheap = OME 2930 front and CS033RB rear springs, jks ACOS, Rubicon express rear boomerang shackles, super ride upper and lower control arms and track bar. Bilstein 5100 shocks.

As for wheels stay away from spacers, you'll be constantly re-torquing them even if you thread lock them.
Unless you plan on trimming fenders and quarters the 33's will rub in a decent flex. I have 32's and still run into rubbing issues when loaded and flexed.

If you're going to buy another rear axle find the xj dana 44. The 8.25 is a great able but your locker selection is limited and the c-clip axles can put you in a bind on the trail. The 8.8 is an ok axle but what you'll spend adapting it and then the width difference just makes it a pain to deal with.

Front bumpers are a matter of taste, I prefer something that can take a animal strike or a accidental rock.

Sliders from jcr are some of the best on the market.

Steering wise at 4" you don't have to do anything but I would recommend a good steering dampener like the OME SD40.

 

[Somecallmetimm]

When it comes to gearing, this is the best site I've seen, and have used it a lot.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

But all the charts in the world won't help with seat of the pants feel.

You might want to also consider frame stiffeners, they're relatively inexpensive but do a TON in retaining the shape of your jeep when flexing it out. Especially when it comes to door/hatch alignment.

Going with an 8.8, you will need to use spacers on the rear to match track width. Spacers are evil. They will fail unless you are checking them constantly, and when they fail, it's not fun.

Also, I believe the 8.8 is a C clip axle. But disk brakes prevent the wheel loss issues when braking a shaft, unlike the 35c.