Preping Metal for Paint

[Nuclear Redneck]

What is the best way to prep metal for paint?

I need to paint my sliders. They are made of HREW tubing. I think that they are covered in some sort of preservative coating. I know that has to come off and I'm not sure what is the best way to do that.

I plan on rattlecanning the sliders and putting a small amount of herculiner on the top where the slider will double as a step.

Thanks,

 

[CoastalDefender]

Carburetor Cleaner at Wal-Mart is an excellent degreaser that dries quickly.

If it's a film, you can hit it with carb cleaner, sand it down, then clean it off with carb cleaner.

At $1/can of carb cleaner, you can afford to get as much as they have there. It's works great for cleaning paint off too.


Get the metal bone dry, then attack it with the wife's hair dryer (or go get yourself a cheapie one, I have a designated one) will heat the area and assist in cleaning, as well as drying of the paint.

I would also invest in some etching primer for the bare metal. it will help in making the paint stick REAL well.

When you're actually painting, be sure to heat up the area to be primed until it's hot to the touch, then ********** it with the primer. This does two things- expands the metal on a molecular level, and makes the primer nearly dry instantly. The positive effect of heating the metal is when it expands and you paint it, it will then contract as it cools and the bond between the primer and metal will be stronger. The paint will adhere to the primer real well, so you will have a rock-solid paint job.


and forgo the herculiner on the top. Too tough to control as far as keeping it only on the top. It will either come out splotchy or if you use masking tape, will have an ugly line between the differences in thickness each paint provides.

I've seen the best looking results with grip-tape being cut to size and stickied on the top of the sliders. Get a length you need and cut to size at any local Skate Shop, or online at CCS- http://shop.ccs.com/browse.do?categoryID=90&shopnavTrack=skate.grip


Hope this helps a bit.

 

[gearbox]

My HREW sliders weren't coated, but I spent a couple hours sanding them with 3M chem-resistant heavy scrub pads, then used acetone to wipe away dust and oils.
Then I used Rust-Oleum primer and Hammered paint. I plan on using thin strips of skateboard tape on the very top for grip so I don't scratch up my pants and shins.

Use a true respirator if you can. The degreasers, paints and propellants can hurt you. At the very least use a dust mask!

 

[MoGas]

Why not just get them powder coated? I am going to get my ARB and sliders changed from black to a hammer grey and the PC guy told me 65 for the bumper and 50 each for sliders. Pretty affordable if you ask me.

 

[CoastalDefender]

Use a true respirator if you can. The degreasers, paints and propellants can hurt you. At the very least use a dust mask!

BAH! The buzz and picking black boogers out of your nose for days is half the fun!!! :jump: :roost:

 

[Nuclear Redneck]

Why not just get them powder coated? I am going to get my ARB and sliders changed from black to a hammer grey and the PC guy told me 65 for the bumper and 50 each for sliders. Pretty affordable if you ask me.

I worry that powdercoating won't touch up well at all. But rattlecan will touch up no problems.

 

[Rockit]

Most powder coaters have all their standard colors matched in spray touch up. A quick squirt and your good to go. If it's a super high gloss (over 90%) it's a good idea to hit it with a green scotch brite pad for better adhesion.

I'd go powder. Unless you actually set it down on the slider you'll have minimal chipping issues.

 

[ntsqd]

I recommend brake cleaner over carb cleaner, leaves even less residue. There are products made to be the final prep on raw metal. POR-15 sells their own called "Metal Ready", but you should be able to find similar products locally. Most are some sort of acid etch and should be available from an auto body paint supplier of possibly Standard Brands or a well stocked hardware store.

I'd be cautious of heating to the point that the primer dries instantly, gives the primer no time to etch or penetrate. Though warm to the touch isn't a bad idea.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

If you powdercoat in black, "satin black" is a rustoleum and other common brands color, seems to match perfectly including ARB products.. Hope it helps. I paint 99% of the time though regardless...