Project 35, The Stray

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Moose,

There is some room behind the transfer case. LongRanger had an auxiliary tank for the TJ platform that fit in this location. I think it was 11 gallons, but it was below the bottom edge of the frame. There is room in this location for sure.

The stock tank basically just hangs down too far. There really isn't a lot of room to raise it more than an inch without a body lift. Currie Enterprises did a tank for there competition TJs back in 99-2000 that didn't hang below the frame rails. I think it ended up being 12 gallons. Talk about clearance though!

No matter what I do I want it to be a 'factory functioning' solution. I would like it to be able to be filled from the stock location, use the stock fuel pump and sender, and not require the need for a transfer pump.

I do think this is the one area that the aftermarket hasn't covered very well at all.

Anyone know someone in southwest Colorado or 4 corners area that is a great stainless steel TIG welder?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Jerry,

Thank you very much for that idea. I will have to look into replacing the cross member that holds those two body mounts. I don't want to cut the tub, but welding in a new crossmember wouldn't be a big deal. It looks like the tank should miss the two body mounts if its raised as long as the cross member has a bend forward at the front to clear the tank as you raise it. Using the factory tank would be great for the sending unit threaded ring, fuel pump, etc. I will have to look how much space there till the fuel pump sending unit is almost touching the bottom of the tub. Great idea, thank you.
 

alosix

Expedition Leader
What does AEV do for the brute tank?

guessing it would be tough to replicate on a short TJ.

Could always move the axle back though.

Jason
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Aev does a custom midship tank for the brute I think.

I thought about moving the axle back about 4", someday I might, but to be honest I don't think the 94" wheelbase is that bad if you keep the vehicle as low as practical. I should only have to run 2-3" of lift with the Highline kit for the 35" tires. Its going to seem like a limo compared to the 81" wheelbase on my Willys MB!
 

Detour

Observer
looks like a fun build.

35s are the limit for me too. i like to have a very streetable rig along with a very able machine off road all int one! and it is :)

as far as bits and pieces, there are ways to get things cheap in a legal manner :D buying bits one at a time is expensive, buying a pile of them connected to something and parting the extras out on craigs might make a huge savings.

i have made $1300.00 on a free comanche (with a hole in the block) before by parting it out over a three week period.
 

86cj

Explorer
Sounds like a great plan to me, you will give all of us a few new ideas for sure, I am looking forward to Project 35.

I am gearing my LJ for 35's even though my 33's and 3" short arm does everything I have asked so far. I am not sure which path to take for 35's and will have a year or two to decide. I am really happy with the front suspension it drives great, while the back works OK it feels weird over bumps. I have even considered a modern set of leaf springs under the axle for the rear only, it gives more room for mufflers and air/aux gas tanks on the LJ than a long arm. If I do go long arm the Clayton seems to be the least complicated to me.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Wait till you see what I am going to do for the rear suspension. A 3" shortarm can be the perfect lift on a TJ/LJ with a little help. My general advise is to stay with the stock-type rear suspension on 3" of lift or less.

The 'weird' rear axle handling is generally caused by the short, offset track bar and the inboard mounted shocks. Good springs are also hard to find. I highly recommend the AEV/Nth springs. Slightly adjusting the rear control arm locations will also do WONDERS for how the rear suspension feels when its lifted.

For the move to 35"+ tires, I'm not recommending that you do unless you think you will use them. Even the move from 33s to 35s is a big one. If you do ever want 35s or bigger I would suggest investing in the AEV highline kit or something similar. If you keep the short-arm 3" suspension you can save a lot of money towards the Higline kit. Yes, $2000+ is a lot for a body kit, but many people are paying that or much more for a long arm lift, which is not only more complex, but also heavier.
 

jagular7

Adventurer
Sounds like a great plan. I've got basically what you are looking to do, mostly.

img9920small.jpg


Its a 4bngr/auto, TJD30/8.8, 4.88s/lunchboxes, 2" lift, 1.25" body lift, Rubicon Unlmtd coils, articulating arms/track bars, MML, and 35" KM2s. Still have the stock tcase and rear ds along with the belly plate. I'm have the stuff and will be doing a doubler with 231/flipped D300 and adding a flat belly skid.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Nice jeep.

One of my close friends is running the 231/d300 on his TJ. Its behind a 5.3 GM and NV4500 now too. Its pretty neat. The 231 is air shifted and the D300 has a twin stick cable shifter that comes up in the stock hole....very trick. Its a neat combo. The D300 has the ability to go into front wheel drive and rear wheel drive low, etc. His rear driveline is VERY short however!

For me. I will be installing an AW4 and keeping the 231. I will be doing the super short SYE and maybe the wide chain and 6-gear planetary front the 231HD if I can find a donor. For me, I have never felt the need to go to a 4:1 t-case with the automatic/4.0 combo. Sure, it would be nice sometimes to have lower gearing for downhills, but that is what good brakes are for. I don't like the big gap between high and low with the 4:1 t-case. I like the 2.72 much better overall. My last TJ was a 2001 4.0/3psd auto/3.73 combo with small 30" tires. It did GREAT! I'm still kicking myself for selling that one. This TJ will be getting 4.88s with the 35s and the AW4 overdrive should calm the RPMs down on the interstate a bit. The AW4/231 combo is also one of the most narrow, short ( top to bottom ), and thin drivetrain combos. This lets you do neat things like shove the entire mess WAY up into the frame :Wow1:
 

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