Pulling hubs off of M1102 trailer...............

[billybronco]

Guys........My bearings/hubs are overheating like a CHAMP and I CANNOT get them off...............I've ended up nearly destroying them by trying to remove them. I beat on them.......Tried to pry them.......Nothing.

I'm surprised they weren't glowing red after I picked it up and drove it 40 miles to my house.....Got out of truck and smelled like a chemical fire was burning under the thing. Got near the wheel and could SMELL the heat coming off of it.

NOT good........Please help. Need to remove and loosen the nut.......I think I'm supposed to pull a cotter pin and back it off a quarter turn.........??

 

[RagnarD]

Are you sure it's not the brakes/parking brakes heating things up?

Post a pic of where you are at right now. The hubs should come off the axle easily. Remove grease cap, remove cotter pin/retainer, remove spindle nut.

May find your answer somewhere in here too

http://www.silvereaglemfg.com/parts_pdfs/M1101 Tech Manual.pdf

Assuming the brakes are working and the parking brakes are released, if the trailer is tongue down, that can apply the brakes constantly and things up. Post a pic of the trailer attached to the tow vehicle too.

 

[billybronco]

yeah......FAIRLY certain...........both the hand brakes are facing rearward toward the trailer box as is the emergency lever next to the brake fluid reservoir.

I guess I'm misusing my terminology.......the GREASE CAP is what I cannot remove....I should be starting there, I assume? Do I need a pair of vicegrips or channel lock pliers to pull it off? I've beaten the things to death in trying to get them to pop off. Like, their dented and missing paint. It's no bueno.

Good observation on angle of tongue.......Didn't know that. No pics at the moment; however, it does lean forward fairly significantly when hooked up.

 

[billybronco]

I've glanced over that manual quite a bit in the past. thanks for linking it.........nowhere inside does it explain HOW to remove the caps.

 

[RagnarD]

It's a pry/hammer deal. Jack up the tire so you can rotate it then start to wedge/pound a screw driver or chisel into the gap between the hub and grease cap. May need to twist some and go to progressively larger screwdrivers/chisels. A rubber/plastic mallet works best for pounding on them/installing. Once you get one side loose, sometimes you can work the rest loose with a rubber mallet. May have to drill a hole or two in the grease cap to get some leverage for prying. I don't typically reuse the grease caps after I remove them. They are cheap to replace.

Sometimes they have silicone in the gap and are more difficult to remove. Generally, its a good idea to have new seals, caps, cotter pins, and maybe spindle nuts on hand when pulling the hubs.

I am willing to bet its your tow angle that is causing the brakes to engage and heat things up. Still a good idea to pull hubs and check that everything is ok. Military folks do strange things sometimes. Have seen missing cotter pins, over torqued nuts, stripped spindles, lack of grease, etc.

It is also a good opportunity to inspect brake pads/adjust as needed.

 

[tarditi]

Don't try to salvage the cap

 

[billybronco]

Kinda thinkin the same thing..........they're both already ruined. only concern is.....Where do I get replacements? Plus, who's to say i'll even be able to EVER get them off? Starting to think they not made to be removed. It's literally that difficult.

 

[billybronco]

I see........So, are the brakes ruined now or can I simply replace pads? The breakaway actuator is ALLLLL the way to the rear facing the trailer box itself. Not sure how to test or remedy that either........What a pain.

Surprisingly enough, I have no idea how to lock out the braking action either.....I'll research.

As far as bearing caps I reckon i'll keep beating on them till they pop. Do I need to literally pull both hubs off now for inspection or repair? You think I ruined them or the brakes?

Thanks

 

[billybronco]

Copy. Thanks

 

[RagnarD]

The 1101 and 1102 do no have a lock out provision. I am willing to bet the brakes are salvageable and may just need to be adjusted. The grease cap will come out.

 

[RagnarD]

Grease seals

https://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-070.html

Grease caps

https://www.etrailer.com/Grease-Caps/Redline/RG04-100.html

Any 2.72" size should work but I have found these to be easier to pound in and remove than others. They have a curved lip vs a tapered/straight.

Order more than 2 of each in case you ruin one on the install.....

 

[billybronco]

thanks bossman......appreciated

 

[billybronco]

impressive work on that M101 BTW...........Seems like you know what you're doing.

 

[RagnarD]

Thank you. Should be hub pics in both threads. They are the same as 1101/1102. I can locate some 1102 pics if you need more.

 

[billybronco]

I think I'm good boss........You're the man though so you should probably know the answer.....

These things fit my rig? Bolt pattern 8x6.5 which is what I need but I'm just concerned about width/back spacing or is it a non issue? Also, you'll have to forgive me....I know not what I'm doing.....Is it as simple as jacking the trailer up, pulling the military wheel and bolting up the below wheel or do i have to mess with brakes or anything? Thanks again.....


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