M35A2
Tinkerer
My YJ Jeep has nice flat floor sections everywhere but between the seats. For some reason this are is rounded and angled. I don't like center consoles as I prefer the flexibility of having that space open, but by the same token the stock shape is not conducive to many uses since nothing will stay put.
I've been meaning to address that and finally had a few minutes. I cobbled this up and thought I'd share.
I started with an old PC case. I like to use the sheet metal from PC cases for various things. You can get the metal for free, they usually have useful shapes and edges, and it's good quality steel - PC cases are probably one of the few things that are still overdesigned.
The case I cut apart was 16" long and that was perfect. I laid out an 8" wide section in a way that retained an interesting stamped pocket that seemed like it could be useful. I cut it about 9 1/2" wide so that I would have a 3/4" lip along each side. This would stiffen and, at the front, give me support since the front area had the greatest curve (the photos illustrate what I am trying to describe.)
The metal was cut with a whiz wheel, edges smoothed on a belt sander, and edges bent with a brake.
I bent some 3/4" strap for the rear mount. It's a lazy 'W'. Three inches wide in the center to mount to a nice area of the Jeep floor pan, 1" tabs to mount to the corners of the sheet metal platform, and it turned out I needed about 4 1/2" center legs (that are splayed) to get the rear of the platform where I wanted it.
The strap was cut with a hacksaw, bent with a hammer while being held in a vise, and tweaked to final shape on an anvil.
I took some photos. Unpainted and mounted to confirm fit and broken down before paint. I'll post again of what it looks like after painting. I painted the bracket flat black and for some reason - not sure why, maybe because it was the first rattle can I found on the shelf - I painted the platform OD.
The platform will get scratched in use: that's OK, and if the OD annoys I'll roll it with black latex house paint as that is extremely scratch resistant once cured. In use, the platform will also get holes punched as I decide to mount anything using screws.
I like using sheet steel because you can attach things with magnets. Registration documents will go in a ziplock underneath, attached by magnets. I'll fab up a magnetic cupholder or two as well - easy to move around or to place on the hood when hanging around camp.
Someone will likely ask why I did not use an ammo can as I know they are popular for use as center consoles. I could always attach an ammo can to the platform. However, I do not like ammo can consoles. Ammo cans are great for holding a lot of the same thing (like ammo) but IMHO they suck for the things that end up in center consoles. Sunglasses, water bottles, energy bars, receipts, napkins, small tools, spare fuses, and on and on, all jumbled together in a can that is not easy to reach inside.
Anyway, this was quick and dirty and we'll see how it works out.
I've been meaning to address that and finally had a few minutes. I cobbled this up and thought I'd share.
I started with an old PC case. I like to use the sheet metal from PC cases for various things. You can get the metal for free, they usually have useful shapes and edges, and it's good quality steel - PC cases are probably one of the few things that are still overdesigned.
The case I cut apart was 16" long and that was perfect. I laid out an 8" wide section in a way that retained an interesting stamped pocket that seemed like it could be useful. I cut it about 9 1/2" wide so that I would have a 3/4" lip along each side. This would stiffen and, at the front, give me support since the front area had the greatest curve (the photos illustrate what I am trying to describe.)
The metal was cut with a whiz wheel, edges smoothed on a belt sander, and edges bent with a brake.
I bent some 3/4" strap for the rear mount. It's a lazy 'W'. Three inches wide in the center to mount to a nice area of the Jeep floor pan, 1" tabs to mount to the corners of the sheet metal platform, and it turned out I needed about 4 1/2" center legs (that are splayed) to get the rear of the platform where I wanted it.
The strap was cut with a hacksaw, bent with a hammer while being held in a vise, and tweaked to final shape on an anvil.
I took some photos. Unpainted and mounted to confirm fit and broken down before paint. I'll post again of what it looks like after painting. I painted the bracket flat black and for some reason - not sure why, maybe because it was the first rattle can I found on the shelf - I painted the platform OD.
The platform will get scratched in use: that's OK, and if the OD annoys I'll roll it with black latex house paint as that is extremely scratch resistant once cured. In use, the platform will also get holes punched as I decide to mount anything using screws.
I like using sheet steel because you can attach things with magnets. Registration documents will go in a ziplock underneath, attached by magnets. I'll fab up a magnetic cupholder or two as well - easy to move around or to place on the hood when hanging around camp.
Someone will likely ask why I did not use an ammo can as I know they are popular for use as center consoles. I could always attach an ammo can to the platform. However, I do not like ammo can consoles. Ammo cans are great for holding a lot of the same thing (like ammo) but IMHO they suck for the things that end up in center consoles. Sunglasses, water bottles, energy bars, receipts, napkins, small tools, spare fuses, and on and on, all jumbled together in a can that is not easy to reach inside.
Anyway, this was quick and dirty and we'll see how it works out.
