Re-gear & Front ARB Costs?

[mountainpete]

Hi all,

I started calling around to find out how much it would cost to re-gear my Tacoma from 4.10 to 4.88 and I am finding that labor costs are insane!

How long should it take to swap the gears and install an ARB locker in the front (just the locker, no air line or compressor)? What is a typical all-in price?

I got quoted 14 hours worth of labor today! That's over $1200! :Wow1:

Not to mention the parts costs were just plain nuts too... $1582 for the locker, $280 for the front gears and $375 for the rear. Obviously I will be ordering parts from the USA! Heck, for these prices I might as well drive the truck down to Arizona and get it done there!

Thoughts?

Pete

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

I believe ARB lockers are $750-825 each
gears are like $400..?
regear labor is like $350 per axle...

I had a ARB locker installed on a truck a while back and I did all the wiring myself and just had them mess w/ the 3rd and that's it. I was much happier this way.

approx costs (I am considering regearing in te future)

 

[Ursidae69]

I feel you pain man, I recently looked into going to 4.88s and the cost scared me away... I might be changing tire sizes soon and the gearing will be more of an issue.

 

[articulate]

Setting gears is no small project. You'll find that $1200 for both axles is pretty standard.

:violent-smiley-031:

Mark

edit: Although I see you might be speaking in Canadian Pesos, EH? My figures are in 'Merrikan dollars.

 

[Nullifier]

If you pull the third members you labor dropes big time. THe rear is a no brainer the front is not much harder. You can do it yourself with basic tools and some jack stands.

I decided last minute to have a gear shop set up my thirds and it was 180 per third for ARB and gears. I supplied the lockers, gears, and master install kit. I got that package through dcwd for 1850 shipped.

 

[mountainpete]

I believe ARB lockers are $750-825 each
gears are like $400..?
regear labor is like $350 per axle...

That's the kind of prices I was expecting and I would consider that more reasonable.

Yes the $$ I am talking about are in Cannuckistan funds, but our dollar is basically .90 USD right now so it shouldn't be that far off.

Anyone know of a good step by step description on the net of how to pull the third members myself? Never gone down that path before...

 

[DaveInDenver]

I had my gears done as a turn key. I had installed Air Lockers in front and rear and Yukon 5.29 gears. The labor on mine included setting up the third members, R&R of the diffs and some of the plumbing and wiring (I did finish that myself). I figured that with gears if there was a problem I wouldn't have an issue that anyone could say I screwed something up. Turns out I do have a leaky front diff and I'm gonna fix it myself anyway, so my logic was flawed afterall. But none-the-less, the price broke down roughly:

Lockers - $1400
Gears - $600
Compressor - $300
Bearings and seals for the diffs (figured might as well replace them while it's apart) - $400
Labor - $1200

Yup, it was a little under $4000 to drop off/pick up my truck. That wasn't out of the ballpark comparing other places for quotes. Pulling the thirds and dropping them off would have saved about $700. It took the shop 4 days (in on Monday, picked up Thursday), which is significantly less time than it would have taken me (I figure at least two weekends and the truck is still down for the week in between).

 

[Brian894x4]

The actual regear used to only cost around $150-200 diff in my area a few years ago. That's after the diff pulled out and on the bench. When you add an ARB, there's complicated plumbing and drilling required which adds to the cost.

As already mentioned, by pulling the diffs yourself you save a ton of cash. One option might be to buy a rear Toyota electric 4.88 diff already set up from either Toyota or a number of aftermarket Toyota off road parts suppliers, marlincrawler.com, inchworm.com, allpro.com, etc. About $1300 already set up. That may be cheaper than an ARB and new gears, I haven't run the numbers. Then find a Toyota electric diff rear axle, minus the diff and just bolt it all in. After wiring, you're done with the rear. Total cost with you doing the labor should be around $1500 or so for the rear.

For the front, you might consider just regearing and no locker, or maybe a limited slip instead. I've found that duel lockers are really only needed in extreme situations. A rear locker will get you a long way. My front ARB gets so little use, I have to cycle it every once a while just to make sure it works.

Also, if you do go with ARBs, you'll want to shop around, since the mark ups on the ARBs seem to vary widely. I wouldn't pay more than about $700-750 per ARB and sometimes you can find them for the mid to upper 600s.

And don't overlook used stuff. Some folks might want to upgrade to 5.29s and sell their entire 4.88 diffs.

One more thing, if you're really on a budget, one possible option is to source a wrecking yard locking diff Taco axle, minus the diff. Then source a '92-'95 Toyota pick-up/4Runner V-6, auto, 31" tire truck rear diff, with factory 4.88 gears. While you're at it, grab the front diff too. Then you bolt in the rear diff to the Taco locking diff axle, since that locking diff axle should accept that diff, both are 8" (I think.) If you want a locker a cheaper auto locker like a Lockrite or Aussie would suffice. Then the front carrier and gears should be swappable into your front diff. Would require more work, and very convoluted, but would probably be the most economical option.

 

[erin]

When I had the 4.88's and true tracs fornt and rear done, it was around $2200 cash otd. iI believe the shop charged something around $325 per axle for installing both. One of the reasons I eventually went with the True tracs was the ARB associated costs, as they were almost half the price and no compressor or additional install costs. So far, I have been really impressed with them. The only drawback so far, is you just have to be careful in wet weather, as they act almost like a full locker in the rear through corners under power, spinning the inside tire, creating oversteer. But if you just pay attention, it's really not a problem.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The only drawback so far, is you just have to be careful in wet weather, as they act almost like a full locker in the rear through corners under power, spinning the inside tire, creating oversteer. But if you just pay attention, it's really not a problem.

For a daily driver in Calgary I think he'll find the same thing I do, snow covered roads are bad enough with open diffs that an auto locker in the drive axle is nerve racking. I like having the option of either completely open or 100% locked so that I can adjust for the road surface. In very deep snow a locker is nice, but on anything under a few inches or recently plowed, an open diff lets you enjoy your coffee on the way up to ski.

 

[mountainpete]

For a daily driver in Calgary I think he'll find the same thing I do, snow covered roads are bad enough with open diffs that an auto locker in the drive axle is nerve racking. I like having the option of either completely open or 100% locked so that I can adjust for the road surface. In very deep snow a locker is nice, but on anything under a few inches or recently plowed, an open diff lets you enjoy your coffee on the way up to ski.

I agree with you there Dave... in the front it's either completely open or 100% locked for me. Having a locked front while driving on snowy streets is a disaster.

The more I shop around the more I think I am going to spend the money on something else...

 

[Brian894x4]

For a daily driver in Calgary I think he'll find the same thing I do, snow covered roads are bad enough with open diffs that an auto locker in the drive axle is nerve racking. I like having the option of either completely open or 100% locked so that I can adjust for the road surface. In very deep snow a locker is nice, but on anything under a few inches or recently plowed, an open diff lets you enjoy your coffee on the way up to ski.

I agree that the Truetrac limited slip can sometimes act like an autolocker. I ran one up front years ago and ended up in the ditch, while trying to drive away from a stop on an ice over road. The rear had a Lockrite, and I expected the front "limited slip" not to spin both tires, keeping me somewhat steady, but it did and with all four tires spinning I was at the mercy of gravity, which pulled me off the road.

I'm a firm believer now in manual lockers or nothing for anyone that regularly encounters ice and snow.

 

[crawler#976]

I've only worked on one Taco front diff - so I can't give ya any hints on that. But...

I've pulled a bunch of 8" thirds, both front and rear solid axles;

1. support the axle on jack stands

2. remove the tires

3. drain the diff

4. remove the 4 nuts off the inside axle flange (rear axle only), or remove the spindle, birf's and shafts on a solid front axle.

5. remove and cap the rear brake lines - vacuum line caps work great

6. remove the 4 bolts from the d'shaft

7. carefully pull out the axle shaft from the housing. do not let the axles bear in the axle seals if you plan on re-using them. IMO - axle seals are cheap, so I always replace them.

8. remove the nuts on the third member.

9. it seem like 99.99% the third member is pretty well sealed to the housing and will require some persuation to break it loose. whack it with a lead hammer once or twice, if that doesn't do it, I use a floor jack and gently bump the pinion flange up until the gasket lets go.

BE CAREFUL!! the third is now loose - it's a heavy, oily chunk of cast iron and steel.

10. if doing this by yourself, support the third with a floor jack or some other item, (I use an old milk crate) and ease it out of the housing.

11. clean out all the debris from the housing in prep for re-installing the third.

install in reverse order - again, be very carefull of the rear axle seals when sliding in the axle shafts.

note: I don't bother with the paper gasket, red RTV works great!

MAKE SURE YOU REFILL THE DIFF AND BLEED THE BRAKES!

USE A CHEAP STRAIGHT 90W GEAR OIL FOR BREAK IN

FOLLOW YOUR BUILDERS INSTRUCTIONS FOR BREAK IN, OR YOUR WAREENT MIGHT BE VOIDED.

I recommend you drive 15 to 20 miles, stop the vehicle and let it sit until the diff is cold. cycle the diff thru 3 repeats of this proceedure. don't tow or haul loads for the first 500 miles, then change the oil at your regular intervals (20,000 miles for my stuff)

after break in, and only after break in, I highly recommend a full synthetic gear oil suitable for your climate. I use Valvoline 75W-90 Synthetic in my rigs.

Mark

 

[crawler#976]

On gear install time - I had a freind (Mark Mason) that used to own Kong's Offroad in Phx. He could set up a Toy third in about an hour, 2 hours tops if it was a real PITA.

IMO: Gears - US GEAR or Precision Gear, accept no others. Yukon and Superior Axel and Gear suck from my personal experance(S)!

Find a installer that is very familiar with Toy thirds. They are very finicky to set up. Ask them how many they've done and get references!!!

If you don't mind paying the freight ZUK does good work down in Phx. http://www.gearinstalls.com/

Mark

 

[sroney78]

I believe ARB lockers are $750-825 each
gears are like $400..?
regear labor is like $350 per axle...

I had a ARB locker installed on a truck a while back and I did all the wiring myself and just had them mess w/ the 3rd and that's it. I was much happier this way.

approx costs (I am considering regearing in te future)

ARB front Air Locker is more in the $1300-$1400 range, and I don't know of any shops that will do re-gears for $350 an axel standard is just shy of double that.