Snagger
Explorer
I have just fit a 109 ambulance anti-roll bar to a standard 109 with rear fuel tank. The write up and photos are here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/1196
Rear anti-roll bar on 109
- Thread starter Snagger
- Start date
UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
Good work. That mount is much nicer looking than the o.e. set!
Mine are stillsitting on the floor gathering dust. We'll see how it works without them.....when it's back on the road....before reinstalling.
Cheers,
KAA
Mine are stillsitting on the floor gathering dust. We'll see how it works without them.....when it's back on the road....before reinstalling.
Cheers,
KAA
Snagger
Explorer
For most people, a 109 won't need them, and that's why they were only fitted to ambulances (as far as I know). I need one because I have 1-ton chassis and shackles, parabolics and a lot of top weight, especially when loaded for trips. I haven't test-driven it yet - I plan to do that some time tomorrow. I hope it drives well without the front anti-roll bar, as my Tdi rad and intercooler are mounted on top of the dumbirons where the anti-roll bar would go.
UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
Right, right....Mine's an ex-ambulance that's now a 3-door.
We've modified the frame to take rear (long) springs up front and have mounted RM parabolics all around.
The Chevrolet / LT95 combo are about ready to go in, so wiring & plumbing are next on the "list"
of neverending things to do.
We've modified the frame to take rear (long) springs up front and have mounted RM parabolics all around.
The Chevrolet / LT95 combo are about ready to go in, so wiring & plumbing are next on the "list"
of neverending things to do.
Snagger
Explorer
The short test drive was a great success. One thing about British roads is that a test drive doesn't need to be long - with the amount of pot holes, traffic and roundabouts we have, the engine, steering suspension and transmission all get a thorough workout in a matter of minutes.
There is no change to the general feel of the vehicle, only when conducting tight turns, and the lean when cornering is reduced by about 50%. I'm very pleased with the result. It will be interesting to see what it's like when laden.
There is no change to the general feel of the vehicle, only when conducting tight turns, and the lean when cornering is reduced by about 50%. I'm very pleased with the result. It will be interesting to see what it's like when laden.
diesel_jim
New member
I was about to say "why have you got an a/R bar on a 109???" as my old 109 I used to have, I might as well have welded the axle to the chassis the springs were that stiff! but then I saw you had parabolics.
I've just fitted A/R bars front and back to my 110 Td5, it's got an external cage, and with all the off road rubbish i carry, it's a bit wobbly, but those bars have really tightened it up and it drives lovely now.
and off road I've hardly lost any axle travle either.
I've just fitted A/R bars front and back to my 110 Td5, it's got an external cage, and with all the off road rubbish i carry, it's a bit wobbly, but those bars have really tightened it up and it drives lovely now.
and off road I've hardly lost any axle travle either.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Not that a 109 is likely to be a high speed cornering machine, but which ever axle has the greater roll stiffness will have the least cornering power. That is to say that at the extreme that the rear will likely break loose first with your current arrangement.
I don't know if that is good or bad for your driving style, just something to be aware of. Normally the OE's prefer to set up vehicles to have the front loose cornering traction first. It is considered the safer route to take with John Q. Public behind the wheel.
For what that's worth....
I don't know if that is good or bad for your driving style, just something to be aware of. Normally the OE's prefer to set up vehicles to have the front loose cornering traction first. It is considered the safer route to take with John Q. Public behind the wheel.
For what that's worth....
Snagger
Explorer
It's a good warning. I am expecting to have to treat the vehicle differently; while it may not roll as much as before, I was already aware that it would loose traction at the rear at an earlier point because that energy has to go somewhere. I am also going to drive it very easily until I get used to it because up till now, the vehicle would become too uncomfortabe/scary to push any harder, but now it corners more comfortably I have lost some of my "early warning" that I'm pushing the vehicle close to itss limits. I'm going to have to learn the new limits and the new cues.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
You can reduce the "Oversteer" tendency by doing what you noted might not be so easy, install a front anti-roll bar. Since this is a relative thing, increasing the front roll stiffness should bring the vehicle more towards a neutral handling condition.
Keep in mind though, that since I've not seen the truck driven or have driven it myself that these are very general observations. It is rather unlikely, but if the front already has enough roll stiffness then adding the rear bar brought it closer to neutral. I seriously doubt it, but it is possible.
Keep in mind though, that since I've not seen the truck driven or have driven it myself that these are very general observations. It is rather unlikely, but if the front already has enough roll stiffness then adding the rear bar brought it closer to neutral. I seriously doubt it, but it is possible.
Snagger
Explorer
It's all taken in the vein it was intended!
I will be fitting coiler axles, just like Koos did recently (except that I'll be using a Discovery front axle and a disc braked Salisbury on the back). When I do that, I'll be looking at fitting a Discovery front anti-roll bar for the very reason you mention.
I am also considering fitting an LT77 and LT230 - I'm sick of oil leaks from the transmission, and if I retain the 3.54 diffs in the new axles, I'll have higher gearing in top and lower gearing in low range, as well as a transmission that I can worry less about the Tdi engine breaking. It would also help with vehicle dynamics, being full-time 4wd. I already have the gearbox, which is a UK military reconditioned unit with 11 miles on it (the previous owner removed it because he found the gear change difficult - the fact that it had been filled with EP90 is almost certainly the problem).
Anyway. for the moment, it drives very nicely.
I will be fitting coiler axles, just like Koos did recently (except that I'll be using a Discovery front axle and a disc braked Salisbury on the back). When I do that, I'll be looking at fitting a Discovery front anti-roll bar for the very reason you mention.
I am also considering fitting an LT77 and LT230 - I'm sick of oil leaks from the transmission, and if I retain the 3.54 diffs in the new axles, I'll have higher gearing in top and lower gearing in low range, as well as a transmission that I can worry less about the Tdi engine breaking. It would also help with vehicle dynamics, being full-time 4wd. I already have the gearbox, which is a UK military reconditioned unit with 11 miles on it (the previous owner removed it because he found the gear change difficult - the fact that it had been filled with EP90 is almost certainly the problem).
Anyway. for the moment, it drives very nicely.
Snagger
Explorer
Well, I have just finished a camping holiday in France (just using camp sites rather than being a proper expedition) with the 109 well laden and covering 1600 miles over the trip. It performed very well, with the suspension being far more comfortable and having very little lean on cornering compared to before (less than 1/4 the amount I suffered on my trip around the Alps last year), with no adverse effects on the steering or handling. I'm very pleased with the results.