Rear Pinion Seal Leak
- Thread starter blazinid
- Start date
alosix
Expedition Leader
Both axles that could be back there (D35 and D44a) are both crush sleeve axles.
This means that the pinion bearing preload is set by 'crushing a sleeve' when tightening down the pinion nut on install.
To properly do this, anytime you remove that nut you're supposed to put a new sleeve in as well, then tighten it and get the bearing preload right.
This means that the pinion bearing preload is set by 'crushing a sleeve' when tightening down the pinion nut on install.
To properly do this, anytime you remove that nut you're supposed to put a new sleeve in as well, then tighten it and get the bearing preload right.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
Which means you get to rebuild an axle! Perfect time to sweet talk your wife into letting you get a locker!
alosix
Expedition Leader
Which means.. If its only seeping or just a little damp, just leave it alone
It really doesn't require a complete rebuild, but you need an inch pound torque wrench, a decent impact, and you need to remove the carrier to properly do it.
Its a real pain. I've been putting off doing the Yoke on my M725s 14bolt for this reason. (because if I'm going to take it apart that much I should regear to 4.56 and if I do that I should throw in an Arb). Takes a $15 install to a $1500 install real quick
Jason
Last edited:
alosix
Expedition Leader
As long as you can scrounge up the tools is not all that bad to do. It also takes some of the lure out of differentials. 'The web' makes it sound like you need to be some sort of witch doctor to work on diffs, and it really isn't the case. You need to be patient and measure a lot, but there's no magic. to it. You won't be messing with any shims or playing with the backlash, so its not too bad to do.
FWIW, you pretty much need to take the pinion out to get the seal set properly anyway and to take the pinion out you need to remove the carrier.
These are skills that aren't bad to have anyway. If you're out wheeling the ZJ and manage to break an axle shaft there's a good chance you'll still have a chunk left in the carrier and you'll have to do some magic pulling the carrier to get it out to swap the spare in. You really don't want the first time that you do this to be on the trail.
jeffy
Observer
The Factory Service Manual (FSM) should give instructions on how you can replace the seal without having to replace the crush sleeve and without having to take the pinion out. I suggest you get a hold of a FSM anyway, they are good to have. You get them them bound or as a pdf.
IIRC, you measure the pinion nut preload and then make sure not to pass that number when reinstalling the nut. The manual will give a - number like 5 or 10 inch-pounds. It's inch-pounds not foot pounds and you'll need a dial type torque wrench.
IIRC, you measure the pinion nut preload and then make sure not to pass that number when reinstalling the nut. The manual will give a - number like 5 or 10 inch-pounds. It's inch-pounds not foot pounds and you'll need a dial type torque wrench.
Some useful info here: http://www.differentials.com/specsi.html