Recommendation on Lid hinge and latch system?

Dmarchand

Adventurer
I have a Sankey I'm looking to rebuild and convert into a camper. However I want to retain the open top properties for around town work (you know, going to the dump, etc). I'm going to build a clam shell top for it that will have some sort of rack to mount my hannibal and bike rack to.. It has a rear tailgate that pops open. However I'm struggling to find a hinge and latch system that would work and be "removable" with some ease. Of course I'd prefer everything in stainless as I live in a salty environment.

Any recommendations? I believe the top will weigh in around 50-80lbs, plus tent and/or bikes. So tack on another 150lbs. Top would support the weight of those in the tent of course.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
You might search for weld-on "Lift off" or "removeable" hinges. Welding stainless is a little tricky when you are attaching it to the steel trailer. But something that bolts on might be more up your alley.

As for latches, I really like the de sta co line of latches found at McMaster.com try searching adjustable draw latches over there for more choices than you can imagine.

Hope it gets you started,

Rezarf <><
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
What is the bed rail shape? Round or Square?
If round you may be able to use that directly as your pivot.
Are the length-wise ends of the rails exposed? If so, a tube inserted into both ends or all the way thru it could be the pivot.
By carefully sizing tube size and wall thickness (also found on mcmaster.com if no easy metal source nearby) you can make a hinge. A washer backed by a cotter pin or bolt thru a hole at each end of the inner tube will keep things in place.
I can generate jpgs of CAD models of these ideas if that helps the visualization process.

Second the De-Sta-Co's. You'll find them everywhere. Most people have seen them used to latch swing-a-way tire carriers etc. to a rear bumper.
 

bmonday

Adventurer
I also wanted a lid I could easily remove, so I went with a 1x2 peice of tubing mounted under the rounded edge of the trailer with bolts that go through the tub.

This allows me to pull the whole lid off by unbolting the 6 bolts holding the hinges and tube to the trailer.

Working well so far.

m416_5oClock_Apr22.jpg
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Use stainless hinges. You can have both pins facing the same direction, on one of the hinges drill and tap in a bolt behind one of the pins to stop it from slipping off, use some blue loctite to hold it in place. When you want to remove the lid remove the bolt and slide the lid off.

Lots of hinges to choose from, look at Mc Master, Allegis, Austin Hardware etc.

Latches can be obtained from the same sources, look for the adjustable kind that you can fit a lock in.

Good luck.
 

kong

New member
I built mine out of angle iron for the frame large enough that it goes over the sides, Home made barrel hinges with pins facing the same way. Held it high enough to put in weatherstipping. When I want to remove it I undo the strut bolts hold it vertical and slide it. Put on two more pieces of 1/2 inch i.d. tube on each side to slide a pin thru towards the rear to support wieght. Hopes this helps.
 

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
Stainless hinge

I used a stainless hinge on the front to open like a clamshell. It was not designed for instant removal, but it can be removed in a few minutes.

Front_Hinge.JPG
 

davegonz

Explorer
bmonday said:
I also wanted a lid I could easily remove, so I went with a 1x2 peice of tubing mounted under the rounded edge of the trailer with bolts that go through the tub.

This allows me to pull the whole lid off by unbolting the 6 bolts holding the hinges and tube to the trailer.

Working well so far.

m416_5oClock_Apr22.jpg

I used a variation of this as well, but hinged it in the front. Worked great and was easily removed by unbolting the rectangular tube.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,564
Messages
2,918,359
Members
232,524
Latest member
CharlieGreenT
Top