Repainting my Trailer....

EdwardBernal

Adventurer
Hello Folks:

I'll have to update my build thread soon with the improvements I have made since my last post BUT before that, I would like to repaint it soon. I really haven't repainted something of this size
and function so I would like some advice on the subject. Its really a tubular steel frame with an expanded steel floor. It has metal boxes bolted on to and inside of it. It has some
surface rust mainly on the expanded mesh and on the underside of the fenders/protection bar.

I will obviously start by wire brushing off all the rust and flaky paint- do you guys just use the bare wire brush? I have seen some products such as Naval Jelly at Home depot that is a rust remover
but I've never used it. The other thing is what do you recommend to paint it with? I have already bought a gallon of black Rustoleum oil based paint but I've started to wonder if there was
something better to use instead of (or perhaps in addition to) the paint - especially to all areas of the underside of the trailer where most of the corrosion occurs. I am envisioning a thick gloppy
coating (liquid Bedliner?) to apply to the underside and the expanded steel floor to protect it from road debris, rocks, sand etc...

Here are a couple of pics of what I'm working with - thank you for any suggestions you can provide.....Ed

1.jpg

4.jpg
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
I used a product called Endura, a two part mix, for my frame...a little tricky to use (spray) but holding up great to date.

http://www.endura.ca/products.html

Prep wise I would sand, sandblast or wire brush...not strip.

Rustoleum is a fairly good product, but many coatings sold in big box stores are "ok", and not really a professional coating, and you may not get the durability you're looking for, but in some cases they are much easier to apply. You may have to re-coat, or touch up, every few years.
 

EdwardBernal

Adventurer
Thanks for the replies so far fellas...I'll look into these coatings. If there are anymore suggestions, I'm all ears.
 

tclaremont

Observer
Anyone know if the KBS resists fading better than POR, for example? Wondering if the KBS would be OK for the sides of the trailer as opposed to just the frame.
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
If you use POR you have to make sure you use the one with the UV stable additive. It may be just some stuff that you add to the regular POR. I have heard my buddies that talked about it/used it in the jeep world say if it is used in direct sunlight in can chalk up/fade badly without it.
 

Trailpsycho

Observer
I would look into having it blasted and powder-coated at a good shop. It wont cost as much as you think. Very durable. And, if you want to go for extra protection on the underside, just shoot it with a couple of cans of 3M Rubberized undercoating.

Dont get me wrong, I am all about DIY, but a sandblasting and powdercoating job would probably cost between $400 and 500. You will spend well over 4200 in materials and a few days in time... Just a thought.

I have heard some folks talk badly of PC on some websites...and yes, some overseas jobs are lacking, but if you take it to a local shop that blasts, cleans and coats, you will likely get a very good job at a good price and it will last for a very long time. Alternatively, get it blasted somewhere else and have it shot in bedliner....will last a long time. There are several decent DIY bedliners.

Not a fan of POR.
 

Trailpsycho

Observer
Ooops, noted a typo. Should read:

Dont get me wrong, I am all about DIY, but a sandblasting and powdercoating job would probably cost between $400 and 500. You will spend well over $200 in materials and a few days in time... Just a thought.
 

HuskerJeep

Adventurer
This is what I used when finishing my trailer-

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29

It probably isn't your most durable option but was cheap ($5.77 a can at Walmart and Menards), easy to use, and touches up real well. I used about 20 cans but they do have it in quarts too. I would warn you if you go this route is that there was a color difference between the two even though it was supposed to be the same paint. I found that out when doing the axles under my Jeep, but it wasn't an issue since the last coat I did was all from the same can and the previous coats didn't matter. Here is a picture of the color I used-

2012-05-19_00-16-26_796.jpg


This is probably 5-6 coats...
2012-06-23_17-33-36_420.jpg
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Edward:

I am with Huskerjeep, I paint my stuff with a cheap HF HVLP gun and spray bomb cans.
I like ACE hardware paint as it dries fast and holds up well. My trailers sit out side uncovered and weather well.
Rock chips,scrapes and rust spots touch up well after a brush with my brass wire wheel.

If the paint starts to fade I tape the area off and repaint it. Factory fresh in 30 minutes.

I have been unhappy with any powder coated items in Pennsylvania, once scratched or cracked the water and salt get under the finish and blister it off.
I had a Superlift lift kit on my Ford F150 peel off the first year of Pa driving.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
.....repaint it. Factory fresh in 30 minutes.

I have been unhappy with any powder coated items , once scratched or cracked the water and salt get under the finish and blister it off.

I have to agree with the negative on the powdercoats. My wheels were powdercoated from the factory (they're Wheelers Steel so I'm guessing the factory is ProComp), and I went to the expense of having my bed rack powdercoated locally. Never again. I've painted the wheels every spring for the last few years, and I have to do the same for the rack. The coating chips with use and then it flakes off. I get whatever color I'm in the mood for at WalMart and wire brush, sand and repaint now.

If you want to do it on the cheap, wire brush it and spray it with rustoleum. If it's rusting you could get it sandblasted and have it Line-X'd. You'll still have to do touch ups if it gets dragged over a rock, but the rest of it would stay pretty well.

I've had more luck with a wire brush than with naval jelly......doesn't seem to do much for my rust and it makes my peanut butter taste funny.....
 

Silver dude

Xplorer
Kbs and POR15 both need top coating not UV stable. Which it alright. Coat it then spray can it with cheap paint. Having delt with rust for years. The best is just to find a reasonable paint and repaint every 2 years. I have yet to find a coating the holds up to the task of winter.

KBS and POR15 work well. I have used them both but it still didn't seal rust. Just sealed it 4x better then cheap paint.
 

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