Repairing a broken WARN XD9000 winch terminal stud

[Brian McVickers]

Hi everyone!

In taking off my Warn XD9000 the other day, one of the studs on the motor casing was broken off.

There are three studs protruding from the casing, "A", "F-1" and "F-2".

The "F-2" stud bolt broke off about three quarters of the way down so there is now only a small stub sticking out.

There is a nut at the base of the stud, I tried wrenching on this but it will only spin and the stud does not actually come out.

I called Warn and they recommended I take it to a starter shop to be repaired since the motor on the winch is essentially a large starter motor.

Is there a DIY way to do this fix?

Any information or ideas would be greatly welcomed!

Thanks
Brian:smiley_drive:

 

[Mlachica]

Tear it apart and peak inside. More than likely it's something you can repair very easily. You might need a new bolt or have to cut, strip and crimp a new lug on the inside.

It's been quite a while but this happened on my mile miker that was on my old taco. I called Mile Marker and received a new motor under warranty. While swapping motors I was able to repair the original one.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Brian, i believe you could remove the left side endcap on the casing and see what you need to replace/repair. Here is the parts list for your winch on warn.com

http://www.warn.com/truck/ReplacementParts/Self-RecoveryRPL/srrpl59-60.pdf

 

[Brian McVickers]

"Tear it apart" "Remove the endcap"

Hooray!:victory:
Just what I was looking forward to doing.

I think you guys are right though.
I found a picture from a post on pirate where a guy was rebuilding a smaller Warn. He had to replace the studs, with the motor casing off it looks like they are just bolts that run through the case wall with insulators.

Brian

 

[Mlachica]

Just what I was looking forward to doing.

LOL, it's actually not as bad as it sounds. There aren't very many parts...

 

[Brian McVickers]

Ok,
so I took the motor off of the winch and I was able to remove the broken terminal stud bolt.

Unfortunately, when I had originally wrenched on the bolt with the motor still attached to the winch I also broke the connection between the copper winding and the bolt head, see pic:

I also broke a bit off the end of the copper winding:

This is what it should look like soldered to the end of the terminal stud bolt:

My intention is to purchase a replacement bolt, insert it, and solder the end of the copper coil onto the head of the new bolt. I will try to bend the end of the copper coil back into place as much as possible but I will most likely try to solder it back together as well.

Any other solutions or thoughts are welcome!

Brian

 

[ntsqd]

If you ever really work the winch hard you could raise the stud's temp to the point of melting low temp solder. It shouldn't EVER get this hot, but it can.

So suggestion A would be to crimp an eyelet terminal on the end of the winding lead and capture it under the bolt head. And suggestion B would be to use a high temp solder or TIG/GTAW weld it directly to the stud. Copper to copper welds nice. I've used solid core house wire for filler metal.

 

[Brian McVickers]

I like the idea of trying to crimp on a connector.
I am hoping to leave the copper coil in place and don't really want to take it out of the housing so it will be a tight work space for sure.

The bolt I picked up at the store is just a zink plated steel bolt - I hope that will suffice.

Brian

 

[Antichrist]

You should be able to find a brass one somewhere.

 

[ntsqd]

Unless time is short I'd ask Warn about getting another bolt.
If you have a West Marine handy they normally stock Silicon-Bronze hardware.
I got no where, rapidly, in searching mcmaster.com.
If you have a local starter/generator/alternator repair shop they may have something that will work as well.

 

[Mlachica]

I would use silicon bronze as well. If you can't find one PM me with the size and I'll see what I got...

 

[davegonz]

Any place that repairs starters can probably get you what you need and/or do the repair for you for cheap.

 

[wing sasongko]

If you ever really work the winch hard you could raise the stud's temp to the point of melting low temp solder. It shouldn't EVER get this hot, but it can.

So suggestion A would be to crimp an eyelet terminal on the end of the winding lead and capture it under the bolt head. And suggestion B would be to use a high temp solder or TIG/GTAW weld it directly to the stud. Copper to copper welds nice. I've used solid core house wire for filler metal.

I think the crimp an eyelet terminal was a bad idea.
I did it on my xd9000i and it got very hot on a hard winching and melted down the plastic stud.
I was looking for the part to WARN and they said no replacemet part for the plastic and recommend to buy a new casing. Blaah...
Sigh...