Replacement fuse panel for 110

[AndrewClarke]

The fuse panel in my 110 needs to be replaced. It's shorting out, and a few components like my heating fan are not working as a result. It's scary when you hear shorting noises coming from your fuse panel when you're driving along

I asked someone more knowledgeable than myself what he'd use, and he suggested something from http://snsclassics.com/wiring.html . I've heard good things about Painless Wiring ( http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30001&SearchAll=4x4 OffRoad ) but have no experience with them. I've also seen Rovers Down South's product mentioned ( http://www.roversdownsouth.com/defender-electrical.htm ).

Has anyone else swapped out their fuse block? Do you have any suggestions? I'd like to replace the fuses with blade fuses. I also have an auxiliary glass fuse panel that I'll be replacing at the same time. I'd like a product that's durable, safe, easy to use, and fits in the existing fuse panel space.

Thanks a lot,
- Andrew.

 

[overlander]

I would absolutely go with the RDS fuse panel repair kit. that would swap you to blade fuses, and it's really easy to do. you just need the right crimper, which I can point you to if you go that way.

 

[AndrewClarke]

Here's my theoretical, uninformed problem with the RDS product. I've heard it's just a fuse panel from a newer Defender. Given how, erm, well, useless Land Rover is with electrics, is it any good? That's what the little voice in my head is wondering.

If you have experience with it and it's a solid product, that's great feedback.

- Andrew.

 

[overlander]

the rds panel is the factory panel I have in my 110, and every other 110 with blade fuses. all you would be doing is cutting each existing wire end off the wires going to your current glass fuse panel, putting the factory correct blade fuse panel female connector on the wire, and inserting it into the back of the panel. its dead simple. the electrics issues associated with Land Rover are not associated with this fuse panel.

My panel had blank circuit holes, and I purchased a few extra connectors to wire in my heated seats to the panel. Dead simple and reliable connection.

 

[AndrewClarke]

OK, that sounds so easy that even I could do that. I can move my existing aux fuses from my other panel over to this one to avoid having to carry glass fuses.

Thanks a lot for your feedback,
- Andrew.

 

[overlander]

I will post up the special crimpers you need when I find the link. good tool to have ongoing. Makes perfect factory crimps.

 

[AndrewClarke]

I will post up the special crimpers you need when I find the link. good tool to have ongoing. Makes perfect factory crimps.

Cool, thanks. I'm sure it will be slightly but crucially different than anything in my current small arsenal of crimping tools...

 

[overlander]

Here is the crimper which is an open barrel OEM F type double crimp. (double crimp grabs the bare wire and the insulation at two different points):
http://www.delcity.net/store/OEM-Type-24!14-Ga-Crimping-Tool/p_10478.a_1
or
http://www.americanautowire.com/catalogs/AAW_sections/AAW11_AccessoriesandTools.pdf

Here are some other relevant threads for you on D90.com:
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34856&highlight=crimp
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30201&highlight=fuse+panel

 

[AndrewClarke]

Thanks again, Mark. I'd seen some of your posts on d-90.com before posting here, which is how I'd found out about the RDS panel. I just hadn't immediately clued in that it was you over there too.

- Andrew.