Require longest frame rails

biggoolies

Adventurer
Hi:
I am looking for the longest frame rails for my 2006 FG140. I need them as I am extending my Bigfoot trailer that I have on it and to improve the departure angle. Doe anyone know where I can get these frame rails in North America? I need to find someone or an auto wreckers that would have them.

thanks,
Darcy
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Hi:
I am looking for the longest frame rails for my 2006 FG140. I need them as I am extending my Bigfoot trailer that I have on it and to improve the departure angle. Doe anyone know where I can get these frame rails in North America? I need to find someone or an auto wreckers that would have them.
thanks,
Darcy
If you are planning on replacing the complete frame, instead of extending the existing frame, why don't you just have a frame built to your specs.
Doug Hackney did a bunch of research here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59436-Fuso-FG-frame-specs
Doug's link to source:
http://www.pgadams.com/truckframes.php
So you can have the frame length, frame material thickness (more the 4mm of the Fuso), cross section, etc.
And they seem very reasonable priced.
 
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whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
If you are planning on replacing the complete frame, instead of extending the existing frame, why don't you just have a frame built to your specs.
Doug Hackney did a bunch of research here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59436-Fuso-FG-frame-specs
Doug's link to source:
http://www.pgadams.com/truckframes.php
So you can have the frame length, frame material thickness (more the 4mm of the Fuso), cross section, etc.
And they seem very reasonable priced.

Hi Darcy,

When you say " the longest frame rails" .......the FGs only came in the two WB's and you already have the longer one right? ....... Anyway they are an easy frame to stretch due to the S section as long as you have the skills....plus you already have a two piece tailshaft so that is realyl easy to stretch the front shaft instead of having to add a centre bearing if you had a one pice shaft. So it is obviously easier to split the frame at the S and extend the front end of the rear frame section than it would be to cut the frame and insert a piece as you would on a typical truck frame extension........but Dougs idea of sourcing rails from PG Adams looks like a winner too.......trust Doug to do the research and always have a plan B and PlanC ......Guess you'll have to get some prices. I'd get a quote from them on the rolled sections for doing your own extension too. You want the section (same profile as chassis) for the extension ( allow the little extra length for the 45deg cut) and you want a section to go over the outside of the chassis and overlap the 45 deg welded join by a good safety margin on either side.
 
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biggoolies

Adventurer
Thanks for all the excellent information. It is interesting to know that the frame rails are the same on the non FG model other than the "S" frame. I may find one from an wrecked FE and cut it down. John, When you mention the extension to put in between my current rear frame and the "S" frame, is the extension put on the inside of the current frame and another "U" channel put on the outside? Should they be riveted back on the same way or can it be bolted on? I would imagine the 45 deg end has to be welded on the inside of the current frame? You are an expert at this but I do want to ask something as I have heard that welding onto a frame is not allowed since it can weaken it. Does that mean anywhere along the frame and would not mean at the end? By the way, I have the shortest frame rails on my truck.
Thanks,
Darcy
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Thanks for all the excellent information. It is interesting to know that the frame rails are the same on the non FG model other than the "S" frame. I may find one from an wrecked FE and cut it down. John, When you mention the extension to put in between my current rear frame and the "S" frame, is the extension put on the inside of the current frame and another "U" channel put on the outside? Should they be riveted back on the same way or can it be bolted on? I would imagine the 45 deg end has to be welded on the inside of the current frame? You are an expert at this but I do want to ask something as I have heard that welding onto a frame is not allowed since it can weaken it. Does that mean anywhere along the frame and would not mean at the end? By the way, I have the shortest frame rails on my truck.
Thanks,
Darcy
You can check out Doug Hackney's frame extention work here:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/BEV_buildup/image015.htm
Use the forward arrow (>) to see more
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_02/image024.htm
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_04/image015.htm
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_07/image011.htm
Use the forward arrow (>) to see more
 
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biggoolies

Adventurer
Wow, thanks for that information Mog. Great detail with those pictures.
Darcy

 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Thanks for all the excellent information. It is interesting to know that the frame rails are the same on the non FG model other than the "S" frame. I may find one from an wrecked FE and cut it down. John, When you mention the extension to put in between my current rear frame and the "S" frame, is the extension put on the inside of the current frame and another "U" channel put on the outside? Should they be riveted back on the same way or can it be bolted on? I would imagine the 45 deg end has to be welded on the inside of the current frame? You are an expert at this but I do want to ask something as I have heard that welding onto a frame is not allowed since it can weaken it. Does that mean anywhere along the frame and would not mean at the end? By the way, I have the shortest frame rails on my truck.
Thanks,
Darcy

Hi Darcy,

Have seen it done plenty of different ways......about two years ago Fuso ran completely out FG84's due to the mining boom. To escape going to Euro 5 on time, they built an extra large batch of Euro 4 trucks plated as 2010 models and kept them for sale until the 2012 FGB71model was released mid that year. Most of the trucks sold at the end were actually SWB's with local chassis extensions and we got to see plenty of variations on how to strech them.

I didn't realize you had a SWB....that makes it a little harder as you will need to find a shafting service that can build you a two piece tailshaft with centre bearing that will need to be mounted on a crossmember. As for the extension, this is how I have done the MWB's out longer ( I am sure you will find plenty of variations of what is considerred correct but this works) .....take some measurements first and make some reference marks. Pull the rear rails out of the "S". Cut them back and up at 45deg on the end. Weld in the new section. Exactly the same profile as chassis....vertical up welds. No porosity. I presume you know how to weld ...if not get someone who knows what theyre doing for this part. Then clean up the welds on the outside of the rails with a sander. Then add the outside section . It should be a neat or slightly tight fit over the outside of the chassis rail (and the new section) and it should overlap the 45deg join evenly by a distance of 2x the height of chassis rail so the outside "cover" should end up around 800mm or 900 mm long in total. For a neat finish, replicate the scalloped shape of the "S" onto each end of the "cover" and only weld around the inside of the scallop. This is the bit where you can come unstuck and there may be debate but I used to weld a short 12mm long weld top and bottome at each end of the cover right in the middle of the flange....like a big spot weld just to help hold the cover tight. Either way you need to be careful and never put excessive heat into the chassis rail flanges. So NEVER weld across the flange when you are fitting the cover.

Mate, If those other guys can make you those new chassis rails and crossmembers at any length you like, then I'd go that way.....pending price of course. We don't have anyone like that here.
 
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biggoolies

Adventurer
Thanks for all that information John. If I find a wrecked FE model, could I not use that frame and cut it to fit in the S frame? Would that be an easier way? And can I take the drive shafts from an FE model also? I am saying this as I know a wrecker does have an older model FE that is near me.
Thanks for your help.
Darcy
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Darcy,

Mate, check out the FG frame profile where the S is spliced in to make sure the FE is the same at that point. It should be but double check. Also check the uni stud pattern. Again it should be identical but I dont have any hands on experience with the North American FE chassis so this is just theory.
 
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