Roadtrek Expedition Vehicle ???

[voyageur]

My wife and I own a Class C RV that we use all the time. Primarily, state and National parks here in Florida. We also own an old, 1988, Roadtrek, Versatile, (Class B) which we plan to convert into a lighter, more fuel-effficent, self-contained "Boondocking" special. Plan is to gut the interior and rebuild all of the cabinetry to our own likes.

I have extensive experience building "Living Quarters", in horse trailers and car haulers. Our plan is to install a composting toilet (no holding tank). Our galley will be set up to utilize our (soon to be here) 3 burner "Cook Partner" stove and our ARB 45QT fridge. Both will remain removable, so that we can use them outside the rig. This will keep the unpleasant, food prep heat, out of the house. We already have a Fiamma awning and companion screen room. Our electrical requirements will be shared between a 2.8 kW Onan RV generator and a simple solar panel set up. We intend to incorporate a drain, into the Fiamma, with a hose, to allow us to direct the rain water into our on-board water tank, or 5 gallon water jugs. We wil have an R.O filter system to eliminate any creepy crawlers form our rain-water refills. We will build a front and rear ARB style bumper set, as I have not been able to find Off Road type bumpers, for our 1988 Dodge 300 Van. I intend to install Aggressive, off-road tires, as would typically be found on 4WD vehicles.

This set-up, when complete, will afford comfortable, safe, efficient, travel, over a wide range of road surfaces. We hope with the availability of solar to be able to extend our stays as long as the food will hold out. Unlike Bear Grills... we won't be eating any roaches, scorpions, lizards or rats and we definitely won't be drinking our own urine (unless it is a Diiiiiiire emergency) Since we won't have four wheel drive our selection of routes will be chosen appropriately.

Is anyone else currently using/traveling off pavement, with a two wheel drive van?

Comments, similar experiences, or suggestions please...

Thanks... I'll stand by and take your answers off the air.

 

[xped]

I have always camped out of 4x4 vehicles so when I decided to go the more self contained route I knew it had to be 4x4.
The security of being able to lock it into 4 low in an emergency is very reassuring.
The problem with back country camping is you never know what lies ahead, it might snow or rain overnight, or a tree might fall blocking your path out.
A good start would be to install a selectable locker like the ARB.
I've read about several van owners who have done this and claim it's just like 4x4 ( I disagree, but it helps).
There are also a ton of old Dodge Pathfinder 4x4 vans out there you could get to convert yours and even some Quigley's around your vintage.

 

[voyageur]

ARB Locker at a minimum!

Fantastic idea. I never thought of an ARB on our van.

Both of our Discos have differential locks and they are amazing.

Do you think I could do the 4WD swap with used parts for 2K or under???

 

[spencyg]

I think 2WD is fine for what you want to do, but I would highly suggest looking into options for adding some taller tires. The biggest problem with a standard RV style van is clearance, I.E. you don't have any. I know nothing about Dodge vans, but chances are there are people out there who have added a mild (2"+) suspension lift, and some taller tires. I would not run anything less than a 32" tall tire in a rig like yours as the overhang on the back will get destroyed the first time you come to a ditch which needs crossing or a steep slope. Getting the van taller obviously isn't all good, and I wouldn't put in any more lift than is necessary for a taller tire. I would highly recommend looking for some 255-85-16 All Terrains load range E. There are a bunch of threads on here describing this tire size specifically, and the benefits of it. A locker is a very good way to get needed traction, and is highly recommended. I wouldn't worry about trying to convert to 4WD at this stage. Build the interior, get out and enjoy it, and if you honestly feel as though you're really missing out by not having a 4x4 system, then you can add it. When you do, it is going to cost you a heck of a lot more than $2K!. The bumpers are certainly nice for adding accessories like swing out tire carriers, winches, etc, but certainly not mandatory for traditional "Boon Docking". With your rig they'll be custom fabricated units, and those start at $2k per end. I'd also invest eventually in on-board air, as this will allow you to air down for additional traction when necessary. Try and really boost up the size of your house battery banks, as running a generator is both annoying to you, and all the folks who might be within earshot. Obviously, if you plan on running a house A/C unit, you'll need it. For everything else, there is no reason 200AH of house capacity can't keep you lit, cool, and pressurized for a full week without recharging.

So, First
-Interior
-Rear Selectable Locker
-Mild Suspension Lift
-32"+ tall all terrain tires (not M/S...All Terrain)
-On Board Compressed Air System
-House Battery Bank (200+ AH)

Last
-Offroad Bumpers
-4x4 System

Good luck...I certainly love Class B's!!

Spence

 

[xped]

I agree with Spence, do his recommendations and if you need 4x4 none of it is wasted money. If you were real resourceful and mechanically inclined you might get the conversion done for 2k. The problem with Dodge vans is the engine is offset to the pass. side so a drivers side drop transfer case and front axle fit better. All Dodge trucks up to 93 were pass. side drop so they aren't a good candidate for parts. 94 and newer trucks went to drivers side but in 96 they went to computer controlled transmissions. So the easiest swap is between 94 and 95 years. The older Pathfinder vans will not have overdrive trannys so they might not be what you want for a doner. The hardest part of the swap is the front end, one thing you can do is do it in two parts. Do the tranny and transfer case in phase one. Then do the front end as phase two.
I do not know of any 2wd lifts for the Dodge, they are not very supported by the aftermarket. It seems Ford vans have the most available aftermarket parts and info on 4x4 conversions.
Hope this helps.

 

[voyageur]

Excellent advis from both of you...

It seems the best may be to stick with the ARB lockers, larger AT tires and then tow my faithful 1996 Disco I, as an "explorer pod". We can base camp in areas that are easily and safely accessed by the Ram Van and as opportunity allows, have some great tent based overnighters in nearby, more remote areas, in the L.R..

One thing I hadn't considered was the extremely long body. It extends way back past the rear axle. It is a maxi-van... Regarding the piss-poor ground clearance, one of the worst things is the sewer pipe (4") that extends below the van This will be eliminated by the RV type composting john.

The original 318ci is strong, efficient and free of any leaks. I wonder however if we wind up towing the Disco, should I goto a 360 or larger V8?

I wish I could drop in a Cummins, turbo diesel...:smiley_drive:

 

[voyageur]

Hey! I meant ADVICE

 

[spencyg]

David,

If you haven't already, please do read through my build thread as I've addressed some of these issues you are highlighting during my development of Boomer. I do agree though, even with my 4x4 van, there are places I just won't take it, either because it is too big, or I don't want to risk serious damage. We are considering a "dinghy" as well in the future, though I'm thinking at this point more along the lines of a 'Ute like a Rhino on a small trailer. Anyway, check out my build and get back to me with any questions...

Also, post some damn pics of this thing!!!

Spence

 

[xped]

When I figure out how to get a Cummins in mine I'll let you know. I'm not sure how much more power the 360 makes over the 318 but it's probably not enough to warrant the swap. The Hemi would be nice but there goes the MPG.

 

[neverestablished]

If your going to be replacing most of the interior anyways, why not sell yours and get one that has 4wd and/or a diesel instead. If you plan on staying with 2wd, you can get E350 diesel work vans for pretty cheap. Just wondering if you though about this option.

 

[voyageur]

New idea...

Anton,

I haven't considered that at this point. One asset of the Roadtrek, is that it combines a slightly elevated fiberglass roof, with a partialy lowered floor, that in combination gives full stand-up headroom. If I knew how to post photos I would attach a couple.

Here is a link to a photo: http://www.chooseyouritem.com/rvs/files/84500/84724-1.1988.Roadtrek.190.Versatile.html

This is similar to our van. Same year and color. We do not have the RV roof air sticking up ours is built in...

Perhaps a Powerstroke in a 4wd work van, would outweigh the stand-up part. I will look into the cost of that type of van in my area. Good idea. At a minimum I would want a window in the sliding door (durb side). Maybe it would be more cost efficient both short term and long term.

Thanks for the idea...

 

[Icebox]

Blank canvas alert, blank canvas alert!!

Just found this:

http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/1402308586.html

My opinion is keep your Roadtrek intact, build off a blank canvas.

 

[neverestablished]

David,
Good luck finding one that is diesel and 4wd for cheap, since 4wd is not a factory option (btw I love diesel). But it still might be more cost efficient than keeping your van (but buying a vehicle who's history is unknown is intangible in cost analysis, which I'm finding out looking to buy 20yo trucks)
Were you planning on keeping anything from your van that wasn't dodge other than roof and floor? Sportsmobile and others will do roof conversions if you want to keep the standing height (but your roof does look slick). A window in a work van shouldn't be too hard.
Keep us all posted.