RRC 2" lift 235/85 16s

[zolo]

Ive posted up about my $500 RRC that needed some TLC.
I rebuilt the ABS pump and got it running solid and better yet braking solid.
Cleaned up the inside and out. SO for now I am good to go.

I just had a set of Cooper Disc. S/T's installed in 235/85r16 size.
When I bought the truck it had OME 2" springs in the rear and disco rear springs in the front. Giving it 2" all around.
Actually with the disco springs it sat a bit higher up front.
So with the 2" lift and the 235s it rubs under full stearing lock. Is this the case with other folks with 2" lifted RRC and 235?

I stuffed it and it never rubs under suspension compression just stearing lock.
Any insight would be great.

Tomorrow Im building a front bumper for it as it never had one when I got it.

 

[Michael Slade]

I've owned 3 RRC's and you are setting yours up exactly like I set up all of mine. You will need to either get used to rubbing the radius arms or adjust the bump stops.

The problem with NOT adjusting the bump stop is that the rubbing is extremely hard on CV joints. Not only are you applying force from the drive end of the axle, but you are at the same time applying stopping force in the form of wedging the tire up against the radius arm. AND...what makes it even worse, you are doing this when the joint is at full-lock, which is it's weakest point.

 

[zolo]

I've owned 3 RRC's and you are setting yours up exactly like I set up all of mine. You will need to either get used to rubbing the radius arms or adjust the bump stops.

The problem with NOT adjusting the bump stop is that the rubbing is extremely hard on CV joints. Not only are you applying force from the drive end of the axle, but you are at the same time applying stopping force in the form of wedging the tire up against the radius arm. AND...what makes it even worse, you are doing this when the joint is at full-lock, which is it's weakest point.

This is simple and good to know.
Im coming from years of Toyota ownership. So I can adjust the steering stops similar to a 40, 60, 80, series and stop the tire from hitting.
Thank you sir.

 

[zolo]

cutting front fender for new bumper

Well after spending the morning fitting the stock rear bumper corners we started on the front.
Getting the metal cut we had pieces to start welding with.
Ive decided to do a simple none winch bumper. Set it up to be strong and be able to mount a couple lights. With the way the classic is set up. The bumper gives a very good approach angle just by design from Rover.

Things done so far...92 RRC
Fluids changed
Rebuilt ABS pump
Installed a used good latch in pass. door. (came with truck)
New head lights, (we had these at the shop) free
Used accumulator, (still to be installed) $75
Rewired the after market radio that was a complete mess.
New cooper disc S/Ts (Most costly thing)
Engel Fridge, (From SAE raffle)

This truck is comfortable and seems to drive well. It has the potential to be a very solid rig. Simple and with the installation of a few bits and pieces it can be a very good truck for long distance. The one thing that seems to stand out as a negative is the small fuel tank.

 

[ibex101]

Im also doing a $500 1988 RRC. interesting idea with the rear disco springs in the front. How does this compare with the OME springs? also what shocks did you do all around?

 

[zolo]

Im also doing a $500 1988 RRC. interesting idea with the rear disco springs in the front. How does this compare with the OME springs? also what shocks did you do all around?

I bought this truck with the 2" lift already installed. It has OME rear springs and the disco rear springs in front. It already had new ProComp shocks all around as well.
According to the OME web site (ARB) The springs they make for the truck only give 1.5" up front. Not sure if its more or less in real life, but from dealing with OME in the past with Toyota trucks that would seem correct since most of there lifts are mild and always have a taller rear spring.

The ride is pretty good really. My other truck has sway-a-way coil overs and OME leaf packs in the rear. So trying to compare is hard having not driven another Classic. But its great for me. I love the truck just like it sits.
Apparently from what the previous owner said the disco rear springs are a common thing?.?.? I wouldnt know since this is my first Rover but it seems to work. It flexs like crazy and rides great and carries a lot.
Simple and cheap

 

[zolo]

stepper motor

Well I was getting some funny idle and the idle air bypass motor (aka stepper motor) was the first thing to get removed cleaned and installed again. It worked for a bit but it had to be replaced today. It is located off the back of the intake. Easy to remove and clean but sometimes they need replacement. I was told the RR part was $140. I researched RRs.net and found that it was used in some GM rigs. I found that Astro vans and Cavaliers used the same motor. I was also informed by a fellow rover guy in the local club that this was true.
AC Delco part #AC102 control valve was indeed the same part in the classic. It was only $25.
It seems to idle fine now. Easy as pie to instal and it works. Good info to have if you are on the road and it goes. Any parts store should have this guy.
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