"Service 4wd" message came on briefly - something to worry about?

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
(Xposted from Tahoe/Yukon forum since this one appears to be a bit more active.)
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I want to call on the GMT-800 Mafia here on ExPo for a possible/potential 4wd issue on my Suburban.
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We got a late spring snow here on the Front Range of Colorado. Got almost a foot of heavy wet slushy snow here at my house.
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On Saturday the wife wanted to look at furniture so we took the Suburban (2004 1500 LT, 4x4, about 156,000 miles on it.) Since it was intermittently snowy and slushy I put the truck into "auto 4wd." Drove all day like that until the end of the day when we were coming home through a mountain canyon with snow building up on the road, I went ahead and put it in "4 Hi" for about 2 miles so I would have sure traction. As soon as I got to the main highway it went back into Auto 4wd.
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Sunday morning driving to get gas I switched it from Auto 4wd to 2 hi (all the snow was gone and the roads were dry by that time) and shortly after that I got the "service 4wd" message. I cleared it with the steering wheel button and it did not come back on. After filling up with gas, sitting in the parking lot, I decided to run the transfer case through all modes except N (I sometimes forget that there's a neutral on these!) It went into Auto 4wd, then 4hi, then 4 lo (with a noticeable "clunk" shifting to low) and then back to 2 hi. No problems, no warning messages and no indications that something wasn't right.
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Is this something I need to worry about? Is there something I should be checking? I didn't really test out the 4wd, just made sure the dashboard buttons worked, and they worked fine.
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If I understand there are 3 potential points of failure in the 4wd system: The button on the dash, the encoder motor on the T-case and the fork on the front axle that engages the axle to the wheel. Is that correct? And if so, are there specific symptoms for failure of each component? I have heard of the dashboard button going "haywire" and not working correctly (as in, showing the vehicle is in 4 low when it is not in 4 low, showing neutral when the vehicle is able to move, etc.) As I understand it, that usually is fixed by replacing the dashboard button. For other failures, I'm not sure what the symptoms are.
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Thanks in advance! I may be doing some mild 4 wheeling this coming weekend so I want to make sure the 4wd system is operating correctly.
 
only thing I recall is some notes / anecdotes about the front axle actuator / solenoid and the dash switch being balky from lack of use. And something about cleaning electrical contacts on the harness at the trans / transfer case. That was for a random / intermittent 'service 4wd' warning light. Computer might be throwing the cord because of an intermittent electrical contact while all the mechanisms are working ok.
 
I've mentioned it before on here, but a cheap app (working in combo with a $20 OBD adapter) can pull codes off these GMT-800 modules that you use to need a high $$ tool for. Here I pulled the transmission code that normal scantools couldn't see, nor did it throw a check engine light.
uD7z9eD.png
 
Lack of use is the #1 reason for any issues with electric shift 4wd systems. The contacts in the encoder get gummed up from lack of use, and begin making only intermittent contact when you do finally work them.

My suggestion, since yours is still mostly working, is to cycle it a bunch for the next few days. Then make a habit of using all three 4wd modes every couple of weeks all year. You can run 4Auto on any road at any time, and if there are no turns coming up, engage 4wd for 30 seconds or so a couple of times, then back to 2wd if the weather is nice. You're not going to hurt anything running 4wd if you're not making sharp turns. If you have a gravel drive, shift to low and drive up the driveway once in a while.

There's normally a "clunk" going into 4 low. It actually makes that shift best if you're just slightly rolling vs. stopped. (Like 1mph...)

Exercising the system is the only hope of keeping things working at this point.

Oh, and change the fluid in your t-case too. It's not lifetime fluid... :)
 
I've mentioned it before on here, but a cheap app (working in combo with a $20 OBD adapter) can pull codes off these GMT-800 modules that you use to need a high $$ tool for. Here I pulled the transmission code that normal scantools couldn't see, nor did it throw a check engine light.
uD7z9eD.png
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What App is that and which dongle did you use? I do have a SGII but I don't think it will pull the Chevy specific codes.
 
Have been lurking but this is my first post.
My Tahoe had "Service 4WD" message all the time around 150k miles. Would sometimes start the truck up and it would be in 4Lo. Long story short, it eventually got to the point where my t-case shifted and would not come out of neutral on the freeway. Had to have it towed home, replaced the encoder motor ring inside the assembly ($80) and have not had any issues since. May be better to go ahead and get that changed before you get stuck somewhere.
Cheers
 
Mine did the same thing but it was the front diff solenoid going to ****. no issues after that...shifts fast and proper!
 
Common problem on the GMT800 simply replace the 4WD switch and be done. It's a $35 dollar part on eBayAmazon and a 10m job. I had the same symptoms drove me nuts. It would go into 4WD on its own even 4Lo!!! Very intermittent so I waited.
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https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-901-062-4-Wheel-Drive-Switch/dp/B002YCE5V2
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
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$35-45 on Rockauto, too.
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Mine did the same thing but it was the front diff solenoid going to ****. no issues after that...shifts fast and proper!
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You see my dilemma here, right? :rolleyes: Three potential failure points (the dash 4wd switch, the encoder motor on the T-case or the front diff solenoid) but how to isolate it? I don't like replacing parts unless I have to.
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I haven't had any issues since that first "hiccup" last Sunday. Of course, the 'Burb is not my DD and hasn't been moved since Monday night. We have a camping trip coming up this weekend that will take us 250 miles from home and 40 miles to the nearest town big enough to have a Chevy dealership, but unless something drastic happens we're still planning on going. I suppose if it starts acting up on the trip out I'll have a decision to make as to whether we continue the trip or not.
 
Have you considered getting an Android tablet? Here's the first one I pulled up over on Amazon Warehouse: http://a.co/2bvmFji

That's $73 ($118 if you buy new). Pretty cheap when you consider all the other $$ you spend on vehicles/travel. I use Car Diagnostic Pro to pull those module codes, and Torque Pro for live gauge monitoring (like knock retard, etc.)
 
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You see my dilemma here, right? :rolleyes: Three potential failure points (the dash 4wd switch, the encoder motor on the T-case or the front diff solenoid) but how to isolate it? I don't like replacing parts unless I have to.
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I haven't had any issues since that first "hiccup" last Sunday. Of course, the 'Burb is not my DD and hasn't been moved since Monday night. We have a camping trip coming up this weekend that will take us 250 miles from home and 40 miles to the nearest town big enough to have a Chevy dealership, but unless something drastic happens we're still planning on going. I suppose if it starts acting up on the trip out I'll have a decision to make as to whether we continue the trip or not.
Yeah but it's common on GMT800 there was a TSB on it.
See video to test for your self.
https://youtu.be/JNWxhIWs8Uk

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
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Looks like android only though? :( I have an iPhone 6 so I need an IOS app.

I'm using the Torque app on an android tablet, with a Panlong OBDII bluetooth dongle. It will pull and clear codes. The Torque app is available for iOS. And the compatible dongles are in the same low price range. And the Torque App is $5. SO about $20 to have a port scanner (too).

I'm about to go out and work on my Liftgate interior latch releases some more, I'll mess with my Torque setup some to confirm what it can do in this regard.

The $60 dash switch sure seems like a good place to start. But I also suggest getting a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and pulling the electrical connections on the front axle and transfer case and blow them out, re-seat them, make sure you have good contact there as well. Especially in wet / corrosive climes.
 

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