Shurflo wiring

[skuntz]

OK. So I'm sure I've seen an example of this here someplace but can't find it. HELP.
I'm looking for an example of wiring a Shurflo pump with a 12v accessory plug (cigarette adapter).
My purpose is to allow me to create a removable storage/camping system similar to that of a "vanessa kitchen"

Anyone got some direction for this newbie (aside from "take a hike buddy")

 

[theksmith]

the center of the socket is positive, connect the wire coming from the center of your lighter plug to the red wire on the shurflo and other wire to the black wire on the shurflow.

there will usually be a fuse inside the tip of most lighter plugs, you need to make sure that fuse is just slightly higher than the max amp rating of the pump. you may need a "slow blow" type fuse because the pump may have a higher initial surge current than it's nominal current rating. if there is no fuse in your lighter plug, buy an inline fuse holder and wire it inline on the positive side as close to the plug as feasable.

if you want a switch, wire it inline (on the positive side usually).

i don't know what the amperage rating on your pump is, but you want to match the wire guage to your distance & amps. look at the wire gauge selection chart here: http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html if in doubt, go a size bigger.

if your pump needs more than 10amps, consider permanant wiring it in instead of to a lighter plug, 10amps to me is starting to push the safe limits of those type of plugs.

 

[skuntz]

Wiring

theksmith - thanks for the quick response. Very helpful.

 

[Borrego60]

Maybe a hard wire install with a quick disconnect plug?

 

[skuntz]

quick connect plug

This is also a good idea. Any examples of others who have used this idea?

 

[Engineer Guy]

Reliable Connections

+1 on the impeccable answers above, including using a Slo Blo Fuse.

I've got 2 of these Shurflos linked below in 2 Trailers. The higher ~5.7 GPM Pumps sure take flak for unreliability on some Big Rig RV Forums. Not so on these 2.8 GPM Pumps that I've had zero issues with [i.e. the same experience as others].

Shur Flo Pump

In a past life, I designed and built large P.A. Systems. For 'foolproof' thinking, we used to get a royal buzz on. Then, we'd think through failure scenarios and design/build accordingly the next day. This led to avoiding Connectors that could have dual purposes [like 1/4" Phone Plugs]. And, using only intrinsically-polarized BigAss Twist Lok Connectors for Speakers where Bass/Mid/Treble Amps could never cross-connect while we were fatigued. Yeah, fatigued, that was it... :ylsmoke:

Case-in-point, I don't like passing >10 Amps through the tip of a typical Cig Lighter Connector. It's originally designed for light, occasional duty. The contact surface area is undersized and overheats. Instead, consider picking a flat blade Connector as used on a Genny +12 VDC Output, or some similar connector. Then, as suggested above, hard wire it.

Me, I like Circuit Breakers instead of Fuses. More forgiving. There are CB form factors now that fit into Euro Blade Fuse 'sockets'. Some folks like Fuses because they blow, and you can then troubleshoot. Fair enough. However, you can also remove CBs and troubleshoot, and CBs reset w/o replacement.

Vehicle Circuit Breakers

Blues Sea Systems