Sliders: Body or Frame mounted

TexGX

Explorer
Hoping for some help. I looked under the GX today and found out that almost the whole frame on the drivers side is taken up by my KDSS system. It would be really hard to mount something to them. I did notice that my current steps are attached in three places to the body. I was wondering if for light wheeling, I could use these attachement points for my sliders. I am not into rock crawling, just want a little more protection then the ones on now. Any suggestions?

TexGX
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
NEVER mount them to the body; the body sheet metal is too thin to provide any structural support to deflect even the most minor scrapes with rocks or trail debris.
 

Tim A

Adventurer
Is the KDSS system on the outside of the frame or inside the frame rails with fuel lines etc? If the KDSS is inside the frame rails then you would no problem welding sliders to the outside of the frame correct?
 

bjowett

Adventurer
Sliders can be mounted to the body, ideally when doing this, they should be tied into the body mounts. I will be building the sliders for my Tundra this way... they offer more clearance than the traditional frame mount.
 

TexGX

Explorer
The KDSS is on the outside of the frame rail and the gas tank in on the inside. The current steps have taken some abuse without damaging the mounting points. I am sceptical of mounting to the body, but not seeing any other way. May just have to leave the steps.

TexGX
 

Tim A

Adventurer
Would it be possible to remove the KDSS, install sliders, then replace the KDSS? I'd explore all options before mounted actual rock sliders to the body. You won't be able to lift your vehicle up or have nay real protection unless they're mounted to the frame.
 
N

NorCalBorn

Guest
By simple definition any tubework not directly mounted to a frame is a step.

Sliders are for if you need protection, a safe jacking or a recovery point.

It's been done, search on the Toyota120 board to start with since I remember Jason Demello getting ready to tackle this exact issue last Fall.
 

rsbmg

Observer
If the wheeling is so light you would consider mounting sliders to the body of a vehicle then you really have no need for sliders in the first place.

I would say save yourself the money and the headache and skip the whole slider idea unless they can be mounted to the frame.

As was pointed out if you can mount them to the body its not a slider its a step and wont offer much protection it will just be a hinderance.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Sliders can be mounted to the body, ideally when doing this, they should be tied into the body mounts. I will be building the sliders for my Tundra this way... they offer more clearance than the traditional frame mount.

I sincerely respect your skills from your previous posts.

When you get to that point of modifying your Tundra please show us how you accomplish this. I'd be interested to see how you maintain the sliders function to protect the rockers from damage and support the vehicles weight from those body mounts to ensure a stable platform for sustaining the weight of the body, the entire truck assembly, and while maintaining alignment of the body panels.

I only have 2 body mount locations between the wheels that support the body and 1 for the bed of the truck. I would be uncomfortable "multi-tasking" the thin metal of that support area to include vertical and lateral stresses.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
The KDSS is on the outside of the frame rail and the gas tank in on the inside. The current steps have taken some abuse without damaging the mounting points. I am sceptical of mounting to the body, but not seeing any other way. May just have to leave the steps.

TexGX

I suspect you could temporarily loosen the KDSS for the installation of sliders to the frame and then remount them with longer bolts and bushings backing them that accounts for the additional stand-off from the scab plates. Other bolt-on applications account for brake lines and control cables the same way now and include instructions and hardware in the kits. DeMello and Bud Built from my experience do.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Funny folks say never mount to the body when Land Rover Discovery uses this setup as well as a few other rigs I am sure.
I know that on the 11,000 lb Sportsmobile WAVE the SLIDERS that Rock Slide Engineering built for me worked great, supported the wgt & were body mounted using 2 rows of nutzerts...one in the pinch weld on the bottom and another up the body a ways at the top of the unit.
I will try to find some pics and post them but you can check out the JK sliders that Rock Slide Engineering makes on their website.
 

rsbmg

Observer
After reading the post again, my question is now, do you have a manufacturer of said sliders in mind or were you trying to build something yourself?

I think the issue is self explainatory if you already have a manufacturer in mind they will tell you how to mount them.

I would also say with a fair degree of certainty that any reputable manufacturer who makes SLIDERS, not steps and not novelty sliders is going to make them frame mounted.

Even if you don't have a specific manufactuerer in mind call some and ask them their opinion. You are going to get conflicting answers on here because you have people who know what sliders are really for and drag their vehicles through up over and down rocks in such a manner that a body mounted slider ain't going to cut it, then you have people who drove down a fire road once and bumped their step and it didn't break off so they call it good.

Not trying to be an ***** just pointing out there are huge differences in driving off the road, and offroading. Without knowing what you plan on putting your vehicle through either frame mounted or body mounted may meet your needs. Or it may not.
 
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bjowett

Adventurer
We can agree to disagree..... My thoughts and experiences..... Body mounted sliders work well when designed properly because for the most part they spread the load over a large area that is directly above them. There is much more structure in there than the thin metal gauge would suggest. Additionally, they may have several inches more clearance.
 

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