sPOD vs Switch Pros

Tex68w

Beach Bum
I am looking to add switches to my 2018 Power Wagon to run switched power sources for a ARB Twin Air Compressor, LED lights, Fridge/freezer, etc. I like the compact size of the Switch Pros 9100 unit and it'll allow me to stealthily hide it in a few areas whereas the sPod 8-circuit touch screen model will require a Ram mount or something similar in a more exposed mounted area. sPOD does make a HD 8-circuit version that is similar to the Switch Pros as well.

I like the price of the Switch Pros unit ($495), but I will still have to add a BUS bar, circuit terminal box, and circuit fuse all of which will have to be wired and mounted somewhere/somehow under the hood which will likely bring the price within $100 of the sPOD. The sPOD unit comes already pre-wired and enclosed in a circuit break box, but at a much higher initial price of $750. PowerTrays makes very clean mounting options for both of these systems, but unfortunately not for the Power Wagon/2500, so I will have to figure out a solution should I go with the Switch Pro setup or find someone that offers a solution similar to the PowerTray options.

Any suggestions or recommendations from those of you out there who have run either of these systems or something similar?
 
If you can do your own wiring and understand the basics then why not consider an Eaton SSVEC (Severe Service Vehicle Electrical Center).
This is the one I use the most. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-31S-000-0-ssVEC/
It comes complete with relays and fuses, but you may want to resize the fuses according to your needs. The only thing I would recommend using marine circuit breakers mounted at the battery feeding the two lugs.
For switches there are all kinds of custom rockers available. Most switch panels use Contura V from Carling. Two sources I use are:
http://www.otrattw.net/home.php
https://www.dirtyparts.com/ They get theirs from OTRATTW but carry some in stock that OTRATTW does not.
 

Tex68w

Beach Bum
If you can do your own wiring and understand the basics then why not consider an Eaton SSVEC (Severe Service Vehicle Electrical Center).
This is the one I use the most. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-31S-000-0-ssVEC/
It comes complete with relays and fuses, but you may want to resize the fuses according to your needs. The only thing I would recommend using marine circuit breakers mounted at the battery feeding the two lugs.
For switches there are all kinds of custom rockers available. Most switch panels use Contura V from Carling. Two sources I use are:
http://www.otrattw.net/home.php
https://www.dirtyparts.com/ They get theirs from OTRATTW but carry some in stock that OTRATTW does not.


I did something similar in one of my SxS's, it works and it's a clean install, but I want to stay away from rocker switches this time. I'd like a stealthy flush mount system like the sPOD and Switch Pros models offer.
 

Tex68w

Beach Bum
Why not use the AEV switch mount that mounts on your dash? I got one, just haven’t installed it yet

That would be along the same premise that Hillbilly suggested. While those options are simple, effective, and financially efficient, I am looking to stay away from the traditional rocker switches on this build, hence the inquiry about the sPOD and Switch Pros options. Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming!
 

dman93

Adventurer
This product does require external relays to switch high current devices, and also requires using your smartphone for display and control of functions, but it’s cheaper than either and very capable:
https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/
Screenshot below is the app on my iPhone, connected to the distribution/switching unit in my Tacoma. Six programmable circuits, tap on the circuit and many parameters can be programmed and saved. Also monitors battery voltage with programmable low-voltage threshold shutdown, ambient temp, speed and elevation and heading based on the smartphone GPS. phone is connected to the distribution box by low energy Bluetooth. If your circuit current exceeds the capability of the unit (I think 20A max per circuit) you can add a relay and program the circuit to switch the relay.
E6881207-3384-420C-AE49-AAF972FC8899.jpeg
 

Trikebubble

Adventurer
I went with the SPOD for my Tundra, as they make a dedicated housing to replace the sunglass holder.
It cost around $400US, but I am a complete electrical twit, so the idea of having everything already setup, having to run only one wiring harness through the firewall to the switch unit, and having an easily laid out and very simple means of connecting wiring to the control unit under the hood was worth every penny to a guy like me. I went with the standard rocker switch set-up, again to keep things simple for me.
I do not know if they make something similar and specific for your truck, but again, I've been very happy with my SPOD set-up.


29101550_10155108283211637_1712262482908676096_n.jpg
 

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