Steel Wheels w/ Hubcaps; Old School Is Cool; Toyota 16x7’s w/ FJ40 Hubcaps

cr4x4cruiser

Observer
We’re old school… don’t care for polished alloys, don’t care for massive wheels. But we have long desired having simple [and stronger] steel wheels with hubcaps. Where we are headed we know a steel wheel will withstand abuse far greater than any alloy wheel. Our mission was to find a way to get hubcaps on our truck, and we finally succeeded.

The conundrum for this whole deal is the Spring Clip, which retains the actual hubcap. Looking high and low, far and wide, we kept coming up with no answer – but it was always right in front of our noses. If they can be found, GM Clips do not work… even Toyota Clips do not work. BUT, Volkswagen Beetle Clips do work!


Spring Clips:

It took many attempts and many failures, before we figured out how to successfully modify Clips that would work. The key is to take the VW Clip, place it in a vise, and heat it – allowing one to bend the Clip 90 degrees. Which, basically, allows the Clip to be placed backwards [from its intended VW use] on the Toyota Wheel. Having a friend to hold the torch while you bend the Clip will make the process far easier and result in a better outcome. As well, get an inexpensive pair of Long-Handle Needle Nose Pliers from any discount hardware store [they, themselves, will suffer from the heat generated to do the work involved]. Lastly, you really will want proper gloves for this procedure.

We spray painted each of the - black - wheel centers silver, so that we could see what we were doing [silver just reflects light so much better than a black hole]. Each wheel requires six [6] punches, six [6] pilot holes, and six [6] enlarging holes. We did all wheels at the same time, for each procedure. It is a rather tedious day…there is no wrong way… whatever you prefer.

We highly recommend purchasing - at least – fifty [50] of the VW Clips… there is a bit of a learning curve involved with getting the Clips “just right”. Remember, you are going to require six [6] Clips per wheel… a complete set of five [5] wheels will require a minimum of thirty [30] Clips. All of the clips were coated with ‘Por 15’… we do not suspect we will incur corrosion by doing such. Once we had the Clips correct, it was onto the Wheel Centers.
Cost Per Wheel: $10 [WagenWerks.com]


Wheel Centers:

A trip to our friendly machinist was in order. The Toyota wheels are smaller in diameter than what is required on a Montero [106mm vs. 108mm]. Running them through a CNC machine was easy enough. After drilling everything for the Clips, after machining the Wheel Centers, it was time for finishing the wheels.
Cost Per Wheel: $17 [East L.A.]


Powder Coating:

We do not care for black, when it comes to wheels. The color specified for these wheels is ‘ANSI 61 Gray’, often seen on electrical utility boxes. It’s different, easier to clean, and less prone to fading from the sun/ elements.
Cost Per Wheel: $35 [East L.A.]


Bolts/ Nuts:

We chose to use bolts/ nuts for the Clips, since we do not care for rivets [we just don’t have the proper tools required], and bolts/ nuts are much easier to replace. A small amount of ‘Loctite’ should be sufficient to keep them in place. As well, opting for SS/ Black Oxide material eliminates corrosion issues. Cost for 100ea Bolts/ 100ea Nuts/ 100ea Washers was $35… we will use the remainder for other projects.
Cost Per Wheel: $2.16 [eBay]

Hubcaps:

Toyota FJ40 Hubcaps fit these specific wheels like a hand & glove. We opted for two [2] closed caps and two [2] open caps, which are required for manual hubs. We, again, chose to coat the untreated surfaces [backside] with ‘Por 15’… nothing worse than hubcaps rotting on the inside. Further, we elected to drill six [6] holes in each cap… wanting for excellent water drainage. The environment these wheels will be in is extreme humidity and 100% ocean air. The weep holes provided I do not believe will be sufficient for said environment, so consider this modification a bit of insurance.
Cost per cap: $27.50 [eBay]


Lug Nuts:

Note that the Toyota Wheels require conical, or “acorn”-style lug nuts. People will debate it, but these wheels are very much lug-centric. Yes, the manufacturers will state they are hub centric, but you will not mount this wheel properly if the correct lug nuts are not used. As well, verify that the lug nuts you obtain are hardened steel, made in the USA… you do not want inferior lug nuts, that must withstand 120ft lbs of torque.
Cost Per Wheel: $8 [local shop]


Tires:

Kenda Klever A/T KR28 LT265/75R16E
We were really wanting for the Hankook Dynapro’s… but this deal came into sight. They ride like a truck tire, but that’s what we need, and it's why we have air-ride seats.
Cost Per Wheel: $124.75 [complete, inc. tax/ install]



Things I would do different;

1] Bigger tires desired?
Locate Toyota 16 x 7.5 wheels, if you want tires any bigger than 265/75R16.
OR, plan on having the wheels - custom - cut and widened.

2] Offset the Clips 30 Degrees… placing the Clips in between the lug holes / lug nuts.
This will prevent any interference when installing/ removing the lug nuts.
It’s not a major issue, but it does bother me, now that I see the finished product.


Wheels:
Cost Per Wheel: $20 [Craigslist]

Toyota 16x7 / “16-Hole”
Wheel Part Number / Manufacturer: 426010C010
Wheel Part Number / Hollander: 69392
Wheel Stamping: J 16X7JJ DOT CMC3 04 HM 18
Dimension: 16"D x 7"W
Lugs: 6
Bolt Pattern: 139.5mm / 5.5"
Offset: 15mm
Center Bore: 106mm [2mm smaller than Montero]
Stud: 12 x 1.5mm
Lug Nut: Acorn Style
Thread Size: M12x1.5
Width: 22 mm
Height: 35 mm
Seat: 60-degree cone
Hex Drive: 3/4''
Valve Stem Hole Dia.: 0.453” - 0.625”
Finish: Painted
Stock Tire: LT245/75R16
Oversized Tire: LT265/75R16

Hubcaps: 04 Toyota FJ40
Spring Clips: 50 Volkswagen Beetle
Bolts: 30 Stainless Steel / Black Oxide-coated
Nuts: 30 Stainless Steel / Black Oxide-coated
Lock Washer: 30 Stainless Steel / Black Oxide-coated
Lug Nut 20 Hardened Steel
Lug Nut, Lock 04 Hardened Steel


Here's the link for pictures;

http://s756.photobucket.com/user/blueplate84/library/Mitsubishi Montero SR 1999



[if someone knows how to upload pictures here, much easier than I think I ever will, you are welcome to do so]

- Wm.

p.s. [after a few hundred miles all is fine]
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
What you've done is different and I dig that for sure. Will certainly keep the lug nuts and wheel studs cleaner.

DSCF4670.jpg


DSCF4684.jpg


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Offroadmuch

Explorer
That is a great looking rig with some cool wheels! Looks like you know all about wheel specs. Very handy with the Monteros.
 

NMC_EXP

Explorer
Well done all around: steel wheels.....hubcaps.....the right color. Other than tires, I have a bad case of black fatigue.
 

jlocster

Explorer
This is just phenomenal! Awesome idea, awesome execution, awesome look!

BTW, I a have a set of 16 hole wheels, too. If you don't mind, what shop did you use to widen the center bores?
 

cr4x4cruiser

Observer
The shop used to open the Center Bores is located in the wonderful barrio of Bell Gardens, CA, 90201...

A fairly decent size shop, but the have large government contracts that take priority over small jobs.

But they are quite decent with me... it's almost charity for the amount paid.
 

TheMole

Adventurer
The shop used to open the Center Bores is located in the wonderful barrio of Bell Gardens, CA, 90201...

A fairly decent size shop, but the have large government contracts that take priority over small jobs.

But they are quite decent with me... it's almost charity for the amount paid.

Nice work on the wheels! Thanks I was about to ask about the shop as well. Wonder if opening the bore on alloy wheels would cost more. There are some Toyota wheels I wouldn't mind running.
 

cr4x4cruiser

Observer
Nice work on the wheels! Thanks I was about to ask about the shop as well. Wonder if opening the bore on alloy wheels would cost more. There are some Toyota wheels I wouldn't mind running.

My opinion:

1] Anything more than $30 per wheel is getting up in price [in L.A.]... there are plenty of shops, all over SoCal, so it can be a "buyer's market".

2] It is far easier/ faster to cut alloy than steel, thus the cost should actually be less - than any steel wheel of equal dimensions.
 

M35A2

Tinkerer
Very nice. Here's a tip when using POR:

Never open the can! The paint picks up moisture from the air and begins to cure. Shelf life is drastically reduced.

Instead, poke a hole in the center of the lid with a punch. Dribble out all you need. Close the hole with painter's tape.

Next time, punch through the tape, dribble out, retape.

I have cans of POR that are many years old and they are still as good as new. Opening the POR paint can, one drop of sweat will ruin the entire can.
 

TheMole

Adventurer
i looked into opening the bores on toyota too, is there any loss of strength on alloy by shaving close to the stud holes?

That was my concern as well. I was thinking that alloy wheel isn't as strong as steel so it may be more sensitive and prone to issues during the enlargement process. I mean its only 2mm, but I don't know too much about how its done.
 

cr4x4cruiser

Observer
Very nice. Here's a tip when using POR:

Never open the can! The paint picks up moisture from the air and begins to cure. Shelf life is drastically reduced.

Instead, poke a hole in the center of the lid with a punch. Dribble out all you need. Close the hole with painter's tape.

Next time, punch through the tape, dribble out, retape.

I have cans of POR that are many years old and they are still as good as new. Opening the POR paint can, one drop of sweat will ruin the entire can.

M35A2,

Thanks for the great tip! You are absolutely correct... it does help to read the details when using any given product. Since I have opened the can, I need to find another [more or less] airtight container to transfer it to... I, too, find that I do not use very much of 'POR-15' for most any task - and have had this container for quite some time. While not outrageously expensive, 'POR-15' ain't a $3 can of paint. Again, wicked tip!
 

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