SYE for the 242 TC. Does it exist?

[Root Moose]

Ok, I just finished cutting the shaft. I'm waiting for the underside of the Jeep to cool so I'll relate what I did while I'm waiting.

I used a hose clamp to mark where to cut the shaft. Marking shafts with a grease pencil or marker or whatever can be kinda dodgy in my experience.

I started the Jeep and let the shaft spin with the transmission in neutral. I used a 1/8" cutting disk and cut the shaft as required. I removed the hose clamp and then I cleaned up the centre of the shaft and chamfered the outer edge at the splines while it was still running but this time while in drive.

Safety anecdote: I'm a just a computer geek - far from a professional wrench - I tend to really think about the safety aspects of doing things in the shop and always err and the side of caution.

While doing this I had my wife sit in the driver's seat to run the Jeep while I did the cutting. The end of the hose clamp was twirling around with the shaft. I didn't want to have something silly happen like get the clamp snagged on my coveralls and suck me into the driveline. For that reason I used neutral (able to stop rotation with my hand) and had my wife sit in the Jeep just in case. At one point the grinder hopped off the shaft and hit the under side of the Jeep, made a pop noise, I swore (F@$#) and then my wife shut it down. I thought I had somehow stalled the Jeep and was having a serious ******? moment. After talking to her I realised what had happened. Autocrossing seems to have given her lightning quick relexes. LOL

Anyway, the cat converter is hot now so I'm killing time having a beer while I wait for it to cool off so I can tap the end of the shaft.

 

[BIGdaddy]

You could also lift less, say 2", to reduce the chance that you'll need an SYE. Assuming you'll use 31" tires either way,that's only a 1" difference in clearance

x2. This is my plan, I don't want a slip yoke eliminator, and I don't want a non-stock drive shaft. These are parts that i want to find @ napa or Vatozone in Bummfu** egypt when they, undoubtedly will fail.(never in a big city with lots of supply, mind you).

Tom woods builds great heavy wall shafts, but darn it if you don't have to pay 300.00 for a replacement. No thanks.

I'll take a $20.00 Junkyard shaft with new ujoints, thank you very much.

 

[inked33]

ive had a few xj's with lifts one with 4.5" and another with 3" never had a problem with the stock driveshaft and slip yoke. the xj with 4.5" of lift had the 242 t-case in it as well. all the other xj owners ive met with 3" of lift never had a problem with vibrations either.

 

[BIGdaddy]

ive had a few xj's with lifts one with 4.5" and another with 3" never had a problem with the stock driveshaft and slip yoke. the xj with 4.5" of lift had the 242 t-case in it as well. all the other xj owners ive met with 3" of lift never had a problem with vibrations either.

yeah, I've heard that its somewhat of an intermittant problem. Case by Case type of thing.

Usually most jeep guru's warn to plan on doing some shiming of the tcase or a SYE, so you're pleasantly surprised when it doesn't need it and financially solvent if it does..haha!!

 

[winkosmosis]

Lowering the tcase by shimming the transmission crossmember seems to be popular, but I don't think it's a good idea. It stresses the engine, trans, engine mounts, and most importantly the exhaust system. I don't like the idea of bending that long, rigid pipe and possibly creating leaks.

 

[Root Moose]

I did the converse: shimmed my transfer case UP to get more of the case (NV242) above the bottom of the frame rail. Time will tell if it has any negatives. In my case I don't think there will be as the amount of angle is only a few degrees.

 

[Purple People Eater]

All of this is great info guys, thanks.

Root Moose, keep the updates coming. I'm really appreciative of the reporting.

*edit* You wouldn't happen to be taking any pictures, would you?
.

 

[Root Moose]

Nope, sorry, no pics. It is pretty straightforward though. I finished putting the shaft in a few hours ago. I can take a few of it installed if you want.

I'd take one of these overbuilt shafts over the stock stuff. You will not break this stuff. If something breaks it'll be a u-joint which you can get a replacement for pretty much anywhere. The transfer case slip yoke is worth eliminating IMO.

Whelp, off to sit in front of the TV. Last episode of the season for Top Gear tonight. Jay Leno is the SIARPC. Should be a riot.

 

[alosix]

I'd take one of these overbuilt shafts over the stock stuff. You will not break this stuff. If something breaks it'll be a u-joint which you can get a replacement for pretty much anywhere. The transfer case slip yoke is worth eliminating IMO.

Was driving to work a few months ago on an older TW shaft. Broke the joint closest to the T-case (the only one I didn't lube before driving across the country). When it broke it took out the ears on the CV joint and the ball centering joint.

On the flip side, those 2 parts are commonly available spicer part and could be scavenged from any TJ, XJ, or ZJ front shaft (on the years that had CV fronts). The shaft itself is still nice and straight. Not sure if that would have been true of a stocker in the same situation.

 

[Root Moose]

yeah, I was more refering to the shaft part. The rest of the parts are "red shirts". You can break anything, I guess I was being a bit sensationalist.

FWIW, I have a HAD (High Angle Driveline) shaft. Well built, looks good. Bought it about 4 years ago and just installed it yesterday. How lame am I? LOL

 

[2drx4]

I did the converse: shimmed my transfer case UP to get more of the case (NV242) above the bottom of the frame rail. Time will tell if it has any negatives. In my case I don't think there will be as the amount of angle is only a few degrees.

It's not a very common thing to do, but you can move the 231 tcase up high enough that you can run an entirely flat belly. There can be mild rubbing, easily fixed with a wood drift and hammer. With a 242, I'm not so sure.

When I did it I built new trans mounts, as the stock setup wouldn't allow for a flat belly (I think). I had no long term issues that I could directly attribute to doing it. I ate up stock XJ motor mounts all the time with my driving style, so I can't say if anything changed there (I doubt it, the angle difference is very minimal). I also cut my CPS wire once, but I'd blame that more on not having anticipated that issue (I think it can happen if the setup is stock anyways).

Another plus of this is that it brings the front output, on the tcase, closer to level; decreasing the static angle on the double cardon setup on the front driveshaft. It can be an issue to bind the driveshaft there on front suspensions that flex well (especially if the front axle is low pinion).

 

[Root Moose]

I ended up leaving around .5" - .75" of space between the transfer case and the floor/housing. That is as tight as I wanted to have the driveline to the body. The transfer case ended up hanging maybe .5" below the frame. Make it a total of ~.8" below the frame when you factor in the steel bucket I welded into the skid plate (TNT, used, meant for NV231) to cover the bottom of the transfer case.

The NV242 is quite a bit larger than the NV231 so I can't see getting it flush without lots of floor massage. It's quite a bit longer too. Went to my buddy's place today to help him put the IronRock SYE and shaft on his XJ. Won't work with the NV242 because the recycled OEM front shaft they use in the rear is too long. It's a good value kit for what it is but won't work with the NV242.