Synthetic Oil

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:archaeolo Greetings guys, I'm in Southern Ca. for a while and I'll change my oil, when I get back up North

I should have about 1800 BREAKIN miles on my new JK-3.8 liter V6

Has anyone replaced their BREAKIN oil, immediately with Mobile One/filter ??

Or, are there any SEALS, fears ??

:safari-rig: :safari-rig: JIMBO
 

madizell

Explorer
If you wish, follow the manufacturer's break in procedures, assuming that your owner's manual has specific recommendations. Once you have exceeded what the manufacturer considers an adequate break in period, you can do what you want.

However, synthetic oil can be used in any engine at any time. Much of the difference between petroleum based oil and synthetic oil is in its reaction to heat and its ability to maintain stability at temperatures above what would otherwise be normal operating temps, rather than lubricity at a comparable temperature. Using synthetic oil won't cause the motor not to break in, and I have not seen any scientific analysis of engine break in vis a vis synthetic oil. Whether the use of synthetic oil would prolong break in is the question, and I have not seen other than anecdotal discussion on the point. Synthetic oil does not cause seals to leak.

Personally, I would consider 1,800 miles as too short a period to consider any modern engine broken in, and I believe that how you drive the vehicle during this period is far more important to longevity of the engine than what kind of oil you use. Short commutes and inadequate heating and cooling cycles are more likely to prevent break in than using synthetic oil. The best way to break in an engine is to use it. Get it fully warmed up, and drive it both around town and on the highway. Take it for a trip.

Changing oil at 1,800 miles has more to do with flushing out assembly junk than with the break in period. Initially there will be a higher concentration of debris, partly due to new parts getting to know each other, and more so due to loose metallic and other bits that just a part of building a motor. No problem changing oil at this point, along with a new filter. Which oil to use should be up to you unless the manufacturer specifically states that the use of synthetic oil at this point in the motor's life places the warranty in jeopardy.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:smiley_drive: Thanx madizell


madizell said:
If you wish, follow the manufacturer's break in procedures, assuming that your owner's manual has specific recommendations. Once you have exceeded what the manufacturer considers an adequate break in period, you can do what you want.

However, synthetic oil can be used in any engine at any time. Much of the difference between petroleum based oil and synthetic oil is in its reaction to heat and its ability to maintain stability at temperatures above what would otherwise be normal operating temps, rather than lubricity at a comparable temperature. Using synthetic oil won't cause the motor not to break in, and I have not seen any scientific analysis of engine break in vis a vis synthetic oil. Whether the use of synthetic oil would prolong break in is the question, and I have not seen other than anecdotal discussion on the point. Synthetic oil does not cause seals to leak.

Personally, I would consider 1,800 miles as too short a period to consider any modern engine broken in, and I believe that how you drive the vehicle during this period is far more important to longevity of the engine than what kind of oil you use. Short commutes and inadequate heating and cooling cycles are more likely to prevent break in than using synthetic oil. The best way to break in an engine is to use it. Get it fully warmed up, and drive it both around town and on the highway. Take it for a trip.

Changing oil at 1,800 miles has more to do with flushing out assembly junk than with the break in period. Initially there will be a higher concentration of debris, partly due to new parts getting to know each other, and more so due to loose metallic and other bits that just a part of building a motor. No problem changing oil at this point, along with a new filter. Which oil to use should be up to you unless the manufacturer specifically states that the use of synthetic oil at this point in the motor's life places the warranty in jeopardy.

Yes, I know that 1800 miles isn't the breakin period, but I was reading on the Jeepforum, on a post, the engineers had started and their recommendation, was to use an oil that had "seal additives", but didn't say yes or no on the synthetic oil, I'll peruse my manual specifically, about the oil, first

I had just wondered if any one else had done this

I'm 500 miles from home and I'm just "surfing" on a relatives computer

Thanks everso for your response

:peepwall: :safari-rig: :safari-rig: JIMBO
 

tommudd

Explorer
In Sept. 04 bought a new Liberty, drove it on some short trips 275/300 miles one way moving to another city and at 2000 miles ( less than a week later) changed it out to Mobile 1 full syn, 114,000 miles later no problems. Did the same on a 98 Ford F150 and 95 GMC both of them I sold with over 190,000 miles and never a leak or any engine problems, and oh my last Harley same way. I break mine in the way I will run them the rest of their life!:roost:
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:wavey: Madizell, I wanta thank you and Tommudd for your helpful responses, I appreciate your experience and ideas



tommudd said:
In Sept. 04 bought a new Liberty, drove it on some short trips 275/300 miles one way moving to another city and at 2000 miles ( less than a week later) changed it out to Mobile 1 full syn, 114,000 miles later no problems. Did the same on a 98 Ford F150 and 95 GMC both of them I sold with over 190,000 miles and never a leak or any engine problems, and oh my last Harley same way. I break mine in the way I will run them the rest of their life!:roost:

I read the owners manual and it only required proper certs for synthetic oil and the filter of choice, but DAMN, 6 quarts of oil for a 3.8 liter v6, I guess thats good !!!

Thanx again guys, I've got another 800 miles thru Vegas, then I'm heading North, so I'll probably put some Mobile one/K&N-HP 1002 filter, for another 4/5000 miles

:truck: :pROFSheriffHL: JIMBO
 

Steve Curren

Explorer
I just turned over 5K on my '08 and I have been using Mobil 1 for a long while now. I also read that the Mobil 1 filter is not what you want to use because the oil is not kept in the filter and you get a "dry" start.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:oops: I never read that Steve, but it would be darn near impossible, for a dry start, as long as you have oil at the PAN PICKUP


Steve Curren said:
I just turned over 5K on my '08 and I have been using Mobil 1 for a long while now. I also read that the Mobil 1 filter is not what you want to use because the oil is not kept in the filter and you get a "dry" start.

Anyway, I have been using K & N HP (gold) filters for about 5 years and they seem to work OK, so I'll do my Mobile one and HP 1002 filter when I get home--

Thanx for your note--have a good day

:gunt: :safari-rig: :safari-rig: JIMBO
 

Steve Curren

Explorer
I also wondered but a number of people on jk-forum have said that they have experienced the "dry" start. I used a Fram for many years but now with the lifetime oil changes I am using the Mopar one, I take my Mobil 1.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Going to Synthetic

With my last few new engines ('01 BMW Moto/ '05 Jeep TJ I6/ '06 Toyota 4.7L V8) I have changed to synthetic oil earlier than many would suggest. I go through a careful wear-in process, limiting cold starts and short trips, allowing the engine to cool, using the whole RPM range and generally thinking about the wear-in process to benefit future, long-term use.

On my current main ride, '06 V8 4Runner, I did my first oil change at 900-miles intentionally doing an early flush and filling with Red Line synthetic. The rings were/are certainly seated as I now have 22k the engine has never visibly used any oil between 5,000-mile oil changes. I’m sure I could make the 4.7L use oil if I drove it harder, but the engine is certainly oil tight during most use.

Burning Oil

However oil use isn't necessarily a bad thing and depends on the engine and use. An apples-to-oranges comparison because an air-cooled motorcycle is different than a water-cooled 'car' engine, if I ride 'normally' my '01 BMW moto with 37k on the clock doesn't use much oil between changes (Red Line 15-50). Though if I spend several hours riding through the twisties in a spirited fashion, slam-dancing with the redline needle, then even this relatively tight engine will use oil.

Redline. It’s more than a name, it’s a life style ☺
 

madizell

Explorer
JIMBO said:
:... but it would be darn near impossible, for a dry start, as long as you have oil at the PAN PICKUP

On start-up, oil is distributed from the oil pump, through the filter, to the main gallery. If oil is allowed to drain back to the pan from the filter on down, the engine will start with virtually no oil to circulate, and more or less no oil pressure. Just having the oil pick up in the pan below oil level won't prevent a dry start. So, if a filter won't retain oil, there will be an amount of time during cold starts when there is nothing much to circulate even if the pump itself is still primed, and the engine will run briefly without adequate oil pressure. If you experience the situation and it is attributable to the filter design, I would change filters. I have not had the problem using Fram or NAPA filters, and have not used a Mobil 1 filter. Why any filter would not "retain" oil is hard to understand, especially if it is mounted below a horizontal line a most are. Still, if one brand has issues that another does not, I would use the more reliable filter.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:victory: Yea, I just got back to Norcal


madizell said:
On start-up, oil is distributed from the oil pump, through the filter, to the main gallery. If oil is allowed to drain back to the pan from the filter on down, the engine will start with virtually no oil to circulate, and more or less no oil pressure. Just having the oil pick up in the pan below oil level won't prevent a dry start. So, if a filter won't retain oil, there will be an amount of time during cold starts when there is nothing much to circulate even if the pump itself is still primed, and the engine will run briefly without adequate oil pressure. If you experience the situation and it is attributable to the filter design, I would change filters. I have not had the problem using Fram or NAPA filters, and have not used a Mobil 1 filter. Why any filter would not "retain" oil is hard to understand, especially if it is mounted below a horizontal line a most are. Still, if one brand has issues that another does not, I would use the more reliable filter.

I CRUISED 1430 miles, in my New JK, at 70 mph and averaged 20 mpg

So I'll replace my oil, with Mobile One and my K&N filter, which, by the way has an oil lock-back feature, inbred

Thanx guys

:26_16_2: :safari-rig: :safari-rig: JIMBO
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:wings: OK, Just got some MOBILE ONE , so I warmed that baby up and put in 6 qts ($45 bucks) and the K& N, HP1002 filter

Relatively easy, just roll under and using 1/2 " socket, open the pan drain, checkout for debris on the magnet (none), then reseal

Reach over the radiator and replace the filter-(lotsa room), oh, prime the filter a little first and oil the gasket--DUCK SOUP

Don't have to move the jeep or ANYTHING

:shakin: :shakin: :gunt: JIMBO
 

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