Tank Cleaning Suggestions

[Wander]

I have determined from a fuel filter change(clear one) that my stalling problems are from crud in the fuel from the old tank. With the amount of crud in the fuel (looks like fine rust particles)I am assuming the elec fuel pump is toast as well so I am changing it back to manual-I didn't like the idea of another electical item anyway-and I am goung to drain the tank and clean it out.
A few questions
- should I filter the fuel into a canister so I can reuse it? whats the best way to do this?
- what is the best way to clean a tank and what do I do about the run off?
Draining the tank and getting it out look pretty straight forward-any tricks I should know about?

 

[muskyman]

I would dump the fuel first.

rusty tanks can be cleaned and lined with a two part tank liner.

you mix the stuff and dump it in, then slosh it all around and it dry and hardens into a new liner in the tank preventing more rust and keeping the fuel from getting contaminated down the road.

I have used a couple different brands over the years and they all pretty much work the same way. I have used POR's version as well as one from Kreem.

 

[greenmeanie]

The simple thing to do is take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out. Costs money of course but is less hassle. Then go after it with your product of choice.

If you have lots of crud in there dropping a piece of chain in the tank and driving around for a while works wonders breaking it all loose. Place a cheap inline filter in the fuel line close to the tank and be prepared to change it.

I can't talk to all products out there but most require you to get the old fuel varnish off the inside of the tank for them to stick properly. POR-15 has a three stage process that you need to follow meticulously. Their Metal Clean and Metal Ready followed by the tank sealer worked well on my 109 SW tank although I did seem to spend most of a week standing in the front yard shaking a fuel tank over my head to make sure all surfaces got clean.

I've know of others who swear by Redkote.

 

[Antichrist]

A couple of things to keep in mind.
A pour in coating may flake up around the drain plug. I don't know if it would be better to do it with the plug in or out.
The "skid plate" bracket that supports the tank is soldered to the tank, as is the filler tube and the bung for the drain.

 

[Wander]

Would any of you recommend changing the sending unit whilst the tank is out or leave it alone if it's working.

At what point do you ditch the cleaning out idea for buying a new tank plan?

I just sold the GM bucket seats that were bolted to the seat box for a good price so the money I had earmarked for new seats has been covered-maybe a new tank would be an easier and better long term solution?

 

[muskyman]

you need to strip the tank to do it right.

I would keep the sending unit and reinstall it if it was working.

 

[Elliot Press]

I've been told to hand the tank up on some rope, put some diesel in it and lots of small landscaping stones or similar and give it a good long shake and then empty and clean.

 

[Antichrist]

I would keep the sending unit and reinstall it if it was working.

Yes definitely, since the diesels have a low fuel level warning light which the (more commonly found) petrol senders don't have.

Smiths (the OEM) used to make replacement sending units (PN SBGF-T that were a direct bolt in, you just adjusted the length of the float arm as needed, that had the low fuel level warning. But I can't find any evidence of them still being available.
Nissonger rebuilds sending units, if yours is ever faulty.

Here's one I adjusted to fit a 109 rear tank but never used.

I wish I'd bought more when they were readily available.

Looks like at least AB is selling the diesel senders as the "standard" replacement.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/4065.cfm?gpf
For anyone needing a 109 rear tank sender, you can order the saddle tank sender and shorten the float arm. Looks like it'll save you $20.

Roversdownsouth has the cork gaskets for $1 each.