The Dalton Highway from Fairbanks, Alaska to the Arctic Ocean

[Mad Brit]

First off let me say that if you are one of those people that say “I must do that drive one day” stop saying it and just go do it before it’s gone. I had been talking about it for 20 years in fact I actually gave serious thought to working on the pipeline back in the 70’s.

My excuses - I didn’t have the money, didn’t have the time, got married, had kids, worked 7 days a week. I had every excuse in the book but now it’s done and dusted along with 10,500 additional miles around Alaska and western Canada.

Before I tell you about the trip let me tell you about my means of transportation.

2014 AEV built JKU Rubicon edition with 35inch BFG All Terrain T/O KO2s, I had BFG Mud Terrains for 20,000 miles and they basically sucked compared to the all terrains. Handling is greatly improved, traction in rain and snow is superior, tread life is greater although the mud terrains do look cooler. I added dual batteries, ARB air compressor, and venting for transmission, T-case and axles, an sPod controlled the the ARB air compressor, CB radio, spot lights, radar detector and rear spot light. I kept motor and axles totally stock. I carried tools, recovery gear, camping gear, food, emergency supplies and other miscellaneous equipment in 6 Rubbermaid 24 gallon Action Packer storage containers which fit perfectly with the rear seats folded down. I carried full winter and rain gear just in case. A set of Mopar front slush guards were an amazingly good $45.00 investment although the door hinges are down to bare metal and rear fenders are pockmarked beyond belief from the rocks thrown up from the front wheels.

I sweated bullets over fuel mileage and just didn’t want to add an extra 80-100 pounds of fuel in the gas caddy hanging on the rear bumper. After all I was averaging about 12-13 mpg around town and about the same on the highway whenever there was a headwind. As luck would have it the first 1,350 miles were against a 25 mph headwind. But my fears were unfounded driving the Dalton and Dempster as I ran about 2,500 rpm and 35-50 mph average. As a result of this I managed between 17.5 and 20 mpg which resulted in an excess of gas between the 250 mile gaps between gas stations.

 

[Mad Brit]

 

[Mad Brit]

Right out of Fairbanks the traffic was heavy but got lighter as I traversed the Elliott Highway which was a series of climbs and decent over rutted and frost heaved black top. In fact I was surprised at how many miles of paved road there was. The gravel was for the most part quite smooth but every now and then a big assed pothole would catch me unaware. However, I could usually see the bad sections in plenty of time to slow down or drive around them.

There was still more traffic than I hoped for and it continued quite steadily all the way to Coldfoot. At the Arctic Circle sign there were a couple of very friendly BLM guys handing out certificates of accomplishment for reaching that point. Nothing like waiting in line to get your photo taken. Most of the truck traffic was considerate but once in awhile one would come hurtling down the road very fast and I was showered in rocks and dust. I now have 3 star cracks and one big vertical crack in my windshield. Wildlife was very scarce but did see a moose munching on grass in a lake. I reached Coldfoot quite early and was thinking I could have made Deadhorse in a day but I’m very glad I didn’t attempt it as road works and increasingly poor road conditions really slowed down the drive. Regardless it’s nice to have a few hours of downtime. The Coldfoot Camp Hotel is a series of shipping containers converted into small but functional rooms. It’s primarily a truck stop for the haul drivers but they seem to put up with the tourists with a smile.







Warning sign on the hotel front door



View of Coldfoot Camp restaurant, lounge, gas station, repair facility and camping area

 

[Mad Brit]

The second day’s drive to the Arctic Ocean was totally different. The roads became very rutted, big pot holes, and a 30 mile section was totally messed after the huge flooding last year by the Sag River. It took twice as long to traverse these 250 miles but well worth it. The moto bikes must have had a tough time with all the loose, deep gravel and rocks. A couple of Harleys weren’t so lucky and laid their bikes over. A semi needed a tow through one section. It took over 2 hours to traverse the last 20 miles coming and going. The scenery was again spectacular and I rarely shared it with anyone. Upon reaching the tundra the mosquitoes came out in huge numbers. I stopped to pee and was surrounded by hundreds in seconds and the Jeep was full in just the time it to to get in and out. Most of the traffic was heavy haulers coming and going to the oilfields. I probably only saw a half dozen tourists all day. I stayed at another oil rigger encampment, this one was quite primitive and the food was just plain nasty. Shared bathrooms are not my style, they didn’t even have doors, much like an old army movie.

Before heading back to Coldfoot I took the government ordained shuttle bus for a $69.00 tour through the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and a dip in the Arctic Ocean. Sadly it was raining and the bus’s windows steamed up so I couldn’t see squat I did walk into the Arctic Ocean and yes it was fracking cold. Got the “ been there, done that t-shirt" and got back on the bus to warm up. The oil field was hardly working as it was waiting for oil prices to climb. Workers there worked 12 hour shifts for 14 days and then flown back to Anchorage for 14 days off. They get flights, meals and lodging for free but not much cancellation with winter temperatures have been recorded at 80 below freezing.

The ride back to Coldfoot Camp was fairly uneventful except that it rained just about the whole way. This reduced the dust but damn the Jeep got dirty. The downhills were a joyful experience for the moto bikes but no problem for the JK. Despite the rain and clouds it was still a fantastic journey and again stopping overnight in Coldfoot Camp, after all they had a decent buffet and a good selection of cold beer on tap.

It’s hard to sleep with 24 hour sunshine (take an eye mask) so I started early and headed south to Denali National Preserve.





Insulation placed between tundra and road surface. It took 2 hours to travel 20 miles



Oil derricks at Prudhoe Bay oil field



Fantastic view of the Arctic Ocean



An idiot abroad with cold feet



Land of the midnight sun



The only game in town with a grizzly wandering around the camp every morning





Pulling into Deadhorse and the Prudhoe Bay oil fields



The road reaches its highest altitude as it crosses the Brooks Range at Antigun Pass, 4,739 feet. It's best to pull over for the truckers pulling hard up this pass.

 

[unkamonkey]

A nice report and that road is on my bucket list.
A friend was one of the metalurgical engineers for the pipeline back in the '70s. He spent 3 1/2 years up there in Prudhoe bay. A few years later him a a couple of his friends rode dirt bikes from Oregon to Alaska. He was the only one to ride both directions.
'Skeeters and mud a plenty.

 

[Wilbah]

Great write up and pics. And thanks for the kick in the a** about doing it. Definitely been on the bucket list for too long.

 

[Chris325i]

Nice write-up. I am headed there now, currently in Jasper AB. How much was gas along the road?

 

[Mad Brit]

I honestly never wanted to know. I do know it did get more and more expensive the further north you go but that is to be expected. I just told myself it is what it is and just enjoyed the ride and to hell with the cost. With the amount of gas I bought I doubt whether the wife will ever check the credit card statement that closely.