The El Camino Del Diablo: America's Most Dangerous Backcountry Adventure

woodwizard

Observer
View attachment 13262The tragic events of 9-11 followed by a quadruple drug murder in the small Mexican border town of Sonoyta on August 8, 2002 set in motion the latest policies that have wounded this pristine area and largely our country. Being pursued by Mexican agents, the drug murderer drove through the porous border into Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument on the scenic Purta Blanco Road. Given the impossible task of patrolling the 30 miles of border in the park, the 7 National Park rangers did their best. Kris Eggle encountered the murderer crossing. The following gun battle left one of America’s most promising, young ambassadors lying dead. Mexican agents shot and killed the murderer trying to cross back into Mexico…..on August 9, 2002, all of America suffered further. Since that tragic event, border patrols have quadrupled and the Monument has continually added to the barricades and fences along it’s border with Mexico, but that hasn’t been the answer.View attachment 13264
View attachment 13263There continues to be a never ending list of reasons that culminate in tragedy along the El Camino Del Diablo. It started with the whispered rumors from Moorish slaves returning from the New World of the Fabled 7 Cities of Cibola (Gold) that sent Diaz, from the Coronado expedition, into the area and established the route in 1540; to the misled miners rushing, seeking a shortcut and avoiding Indian confrontations, to California’s ’49 gold fields (estimated 400-500 died along the route). The course of the road is littered with their graves. The piles of grave markers at the High Tanks have long been removed by the military. What seems to be the unending tide of heavily armed drug smugglers and coyotes leading massive groups of illegal aliens across the border, which has left 100s dead with no end in sight, has tapered down considerably. In 2004, during the zenith of illegal activity, it was estimated that over 200,000 to 400,000 illegal aliens crossed in the area between Sonoyta and Yuma with over 15,000 lbs of pot confiscated. During that period, Organ Pipe for 2 years running was considered by Rangers the most dangerous park in America.
How do you put your finger on it? How do you define the reasons and the logic for placing yourself in the middle of a perfect storm in the hottest, driest portion of the Sonoran Desert? How do you describe, to anyone listening, the sensations of the vastness and remoteness that is so rare in the lower 48, the dark night sky or just the only sound you hear all day is the wind. That’s what keeps us coming back and that’s where this story begins….View attachment 13265
 
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woodwizard

Observer
The El Camino Del Diablo: America's Most Danderous Backcountry Adventure

View attachment 13270Thank God Scout never read those stats. Thank God the smiling face of the volunteer on the other side of the counter in the Visitor Center communicated no real concern. Of course we were prepared…..for what we read on the Cabeza Prieta web site. Underneath the calm waters of nature’s beauty, buried discloser and seemly endless unspoiled back country, chaos was so close I’m surprised we didn’t trip over it. On our first time through in 2005 we learned that the Puerta Blanco Road was closed only after arriving at the Visitor Center. Up to that point all of my dealings had been with the folks over in the Cabeza. Alarms should have started going off. I was in a naive back country love haze; the smiling volunteer was a perfect plant. View attachment 13272View attachment 13271
At the time, my permit had been mail to me in California. Lightly mentioning the possible encounters with the Border Patrol, was given as the reason for having your ID and permit handy. Other than routine patrols, there was no real concern. It never occurred to me that the rustle in the bushes could be illegal aliens smuggling pot. I was looking for pronghorns.
View attachment 13273It was on Christmas Pass in 2005, heading in the opposite direction, which started our journeys with Expo. Scout and I were heading for Organ Pipe Cactus for the day with intentions of camping there. The following day we were going to circle around on the Purta Blanco Road, down the El Camino Del Diablo and exiting at Welton. We pulled over to let the Expo convoy pass when numerous members stopped momentarily to inform us of the Expo Family; we’ve been along for the ride ever since. Upon arriving at the Visitor Center did we realize that our plans needed to change and the seed was planted for the future. Time passed and work took me away. Now it has brought me back; this time even closer.
View attachment 13274The area had such a positive affect on me that as soon as I returned I called Organ Pipe to see if the Purta Blanco Road had been reopened; no, it had not- I couldn’t believe it. The road has been closed for 5 years and the Pozo Nuevo Road closed since 1998 with only an encouraging statement from the new, current superintendent, Lee Baiza, about efforts to reopen them. Without access to these roads, it cuts off 2/3 of the 330,000 acres to the public. All backcountry camping is temporarily prohibited. The only way to go beyond the Pinkley Peak picnic area was to be with a science study group. That left me out….
 
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woodwizard

Observer
The El Camino Del Diablo: America Most Dangerous Backcountry Adventure

View attachment 13278The trip was planned to pick up my permit from the Cabeza mail box in Ajo on Friday night and camp at Organ Pipe. It rained hard and I didn’t take off until early Saturday morning. This time I drove to Yuma and entered the Barry Goldwater Range from the Fortuna Road. I’d pick up my permit in Ajo on the way out- begging forgiveness from the Border Patrol all the way.
View attachment 13275Things were going pretty well up to the Fortuna Mine. At that point my dated, hand drawn map sent to me from the Cabeza in 2005 completely failed. Sitting at the fork trying to make sense of the map, up drives a Range Ranger (civilian police officer hired by the Marines).
Him: “Are you lost?”
Me: “No, I don’t think so”
Him: “Let me take a look at your map”
Me: “I got this from the office over in Ajo”
Him: “You’re lost. Use this map to start your camp fire. Here, take this map. It shows all the roads and how they’re marked. With your truck, stay off the hardest roads. They’re not patrolled often.”
Me: “Thanks”
What I was really thinking was thank God I crossed that guy’s path. After I read the date of September 2007 on the map, I didn’t feel quite so stupid for not having that map. From that point on crossing the Barry Goldwater to the El Camino would be simple.
View attachment 13279View attachment 13276My goal was the High Tanks in the Tinajas Atlas Mountains and camp about 1 mile afterward. Soon after the Fortuna Mine the drive was a beautiful, soft, high speed sand run with forever views. Because of the rain, there were no plumes of dust to obscure the deep blue skies. It was rubber neck heaven. At the high tanks were the only non-official people I was to see all weekend. The older gentleman, of 3, was hunting big horn sheep at the tanks. After putting his name into a lottery to hunt the area since 1957, he received his first tag. I couldn’t help but notice the tone of disappointment from being skunked. I soon took off not wanting to get in the way his hunt and set up camp down the road. Later that night, sleeping without a tent and no moon, the billion star sky showed up. It was all real good until it started to rain at 3:30 am. I climbed under my tent fly until 6:30am when the rain let up. My stove had gotten wet and didn’t want to work- bummer no coffee. Packing up my wet things and braking camp I took off for Tule Well. Once there my stove decided to work. While savoring my coffee, I read the log book in the casita. I read 1leg Lance’s entry from the previous week and Scotty Brady’s from the day before my arrival. View attachment 13282
 
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woodwizard

Observer
The El Camino Del Diablo: America's Most Dangerous Backcountry Advennture

View attachment 13287During the drive from the High Tanks to the east exit in Ajo, I looked around for the impact, which could be seen from the road, on the area from the previous assault of illegal activities and subsequent law enforcement. Many ghost roads appeared not to have any use; lots of effort had been placed installing road closed barricades. All of the authorities that I chatted with along the way conveyed the steady decrease in all illegal activities. They were starting to brace for the cool weather spike where illegal traffic picks back up. The Border Patrol had taken classes in the definitions of a National Monument, a Wildlife Refuge and Wilderness Areas. There is promise…View attachment 13289View attachment 13290
View attachment 13286 The following weekend, work took me to the Palm Springs area so I thought I’d take the long way back to Phoenix via back through the Cabeza. This time through I had a much different experience with the authorities. When I ran into the Range Ranger on the west side of the Tinajas Atlas, hanging half in the cab of the truck he would ask me a question that would continually repeat itself all weekend- “Why do you want to be out here? There’s nothing out here”. To me it was obvious; to them it didn’t make sense. View attachment 13284
View attachment 13283 It was during the 3rd time that I was asked that question that presented a unique prospective. Exiting north from Tule Well crossing Christmas Pass, I had stopped to capture a perfect photo of a Sonoran panorama when a Boader Patrol helicopter approached me from behind. After taking the picture and the copter circling about 10 times, I walked the 100 yards back to my truck. At that point they landed and one of the pilots exited and walked over to the truck. The first thing he told me was to keep my hands where he could see them at all times- nice introduction. The 2nd thing was the question. After he asked and I gave permission for him to search my truck, which he did thoroughly, did he tell me about the efforts chasing drug smugglers. I want to breathe easier about this amazing place; miles upon miles of accessible remote back country where you see very few people, if any. But I’m getting a bit of a complex because most everyone you meet is wearing flak jackets and plenty of fire power. View attachment 13288
The extreme vastness and eerie calmness camouflages the vortex of politics. The reality of world economics has forced these pristine areas to be one of America’s front lines in our battle for our borders and identity. We can only hope that everyone will take a step back from the edge. I wonder what Edward Abby would think about all this from his grave. Enjoy it while it lasts….
Now for the Purta Blanco Road…
 
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1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
that was a great trip report....
it is crazy the different expereinces people can have on the same track of dirt...
while we had a big black homeland security helo land in our camp it was to ask about a lost truck and they freely gave the radio freq when I mentioned being a ham operator.
we met 6+ border patrol guys and all were great, most thought it was funny that we would come out on a rainy weekend to run the CdD but they were supportive.
Again great trip report and I hope more good people go check out this historic trail (even if it is mostly flat & dusty) if nothing else to balance out the "bad" people that are in the area.
 

Willman

Active member
love it!

That is on my list!

At least the board crossing guards are doing their jobs! It seems like a sweet job to have! Lots of cool toys on a pretty trail!

:)
 

articulate

Expedition Leader
Willman said:
At least the board crossing guards are doing their jobs! It seems like a sweet job to have!
Shameless, gutless, yellow-bellied plug coming......
Read all about it in JPFreek Magazine June/July 2007, by a certain dude whom you might know. :)


Otherwise, yes, you need to get down there and drive this trail yourself. Nothing that a fridge and a full tank of gas can't handle.
 

viter

Adventurer
wow, this made me feel like I was reading a good book - great storytelling with a meaning and cool pics to boot!!!
 

Willman

Active member
articulate said:
Shameless, gutless, yellow-bellied plug coming......
Read all about it in JPFreek Magazine June/July 2007, by a certain dude whom you might know. :)


Otherwise, yes, you need to get down there and drive this trail yourself. Nothing that a fridge and a full tank of gas can't handle.

Sweet Mark!

Nice article!

:REOutArchery02:

I can't spell......"board".....should be "boarder"!

Oh well.....

:26_7_2:
 

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