The Need for a Lock and Roll Hitch When Overlanding

[wagex]

i use a 1 7/8 ball on my trailer but its pretty small only 48lx40wx24h box size.

 

[Martyn]

I believe the reality of the matter is that a ball coupler has the potential to pop off if it exceeds 15' from vertical. There will be some variation on this based on the tolerance between the ball and the cup, but at some point the ball will come off. If the trailer and vehicle are leaning in the same direction, or the vehicle is vertical and the trailer to one side the chances are the ball will stay on.

The problems arise when the vehicle is going in one direction and the trailer in another, or the trailer is nose down and the vehicle is front up.

For some people the multi axis coupler is essential off-road gear. For others it would fit into the category of "never used it so I don't needed it" like winches, recovery boards, air compressors, tire repair kits, first aid kits.

 

[Bigunit]

What about a rotating pintle hitch, like the LR rotating/locking hitch. IMO, just as good as a lock-n-roll hitch.

 

[fike]

What about a rotating pintle hitch, like the LR rotating/locking hitch. IMO, just as good as a lock-n-roll hitch.

The pintle hitch is a cool idea, but others in this thread have suggested that they are noisy and clunky on highways...which we all know is likely to be 80% of our travel time.

 

[fike]

What about a rotating pintle hitch, like the LR rotating/locking hitch. IMO, just as good as a lock-n-roll hitch.

From everything I have read, there probably aren't any forest service roads that would be too rough for a standard ball hitch. There may be some wicked potholes and washouts, but I think I will be okay with the ball hitch. If it becomes a problem, it looks like you can retrofit a lock and roll hitch.

 

[Nd4SpdSe]

I'm running a 2" as well for the moment, and will get an off-road/max coupler style coupler eventually, but as of now, the 2" ball does actually a surprising job

 

[verdesardog]

It's not really the yaw of the trailer I'm concerned about, it's going through deep trenches or over high humps in the road. I do have a max coupler on my trailer.

 

[tgreening]

I'll take a pintle/lunette every time. They are dead simple to hook/unhook with no regard at all for the physical orientation of trailer to tow vehicle. As rugged as it gets, available at just about any farm supply hardware type store in Everytown USA if you do somehow manage to kill one, and dirt cheap. I never have to give any thought as to whether today's trip is on road or off road. Most of the noise you experience is because people buy a 20 ton pintle for a 5-ton lunette and then wonder why theres a bit of clunky slop in the system.

 

[TacoDell]

options make for great... !? (and tho' not recent pictures, the status has not changed) *

* This is the earlier 6000lb Max C. I believe now they produce an 10,000lb Max C.
But I'll assure anyone that the 6000lb Max C. is rugged enough for 1/4 -1/2 ton trailers/operators/terrain.







The Max C. can be inverted or run as is intended.
So many options exist for leveling the ride height of the trailer/hauler.





The Max C. can also be modified to improve it's approach/departure angles.









action... (older video, but share the Max C.'s function/capability)

https://youtu.be/pibS4xWF19M

https://youtu.be/-PkPNmaq1r8

https://youtu.be/0YXqv08F04A

While a Lunette is acceptable offroad...
The Max coupler beats it in most everyway
when traveling off the beaten path.

My Lunette is the WWII Lunette (skinny neck)
So it's not an easily obtained Lunette, nor cheap to purchase. (if you can find one).
My lunette is mounted simply as back up to my Max C. (not likely needed)
But it's integral with keeping my M100 trailer's originality.

I do recommend as did a prior user
that if using a 1/4 ton Lunette, the Pintle hitch need be 5 ton or smaller.
A well matched fit is critical to ensure the proper function-fit of Pintle/Lunette combo.

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yep, I was bored