The Rock

[wikid]

After a few changes in direction about doing some major mods to my FJ , then deciding to change the motor and s/c , then a few other ideas, After the new TT came out in the Cement color. I toyed with the idea of getting a new one. Then, one came in and I decided to look at it.
12/12/12, I went down and signed the papers .
Here's where the build begins.

2013 Cement TT. Notable mods that are new to me are, Crawl Control and Rear View Camera

"The Rock"
It seems like I rack my brain trying come up with a a name and the meaning behind it. This time it was simple, FJess, thought it looked like a rock . Thank you Jess.

Current pic, as of 9/23/13



Updated picture November 3rd 2013, the night before leaving for SEMA


Featured at
Overland Expo May 2013 Flagstaff AZ
SEMA , November 2013 Las Vegas NV


Mods list

Factory

2013 TT
Crawl Control
A-trac
Locker
Rear View Camera
All the TT Garnishes

Suspension
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/icon-vehicle-dynamics/208929-rock-goes-icon.html
Icon Stage 6 with CDC
Icon S2 remotes with CDC
Icon rear bump stops
BMC http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-tech/159378-body-mount-chop.html#post2376386

Armor
Total Chaos Spindle gussets/with swaybar http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...sset-install-swaybar-version.html#post2400930
Ricochet Full skid plates http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/ricochet-offroad/162270-ricochet-porn.html
Icon LCA skid for S2 System
Demello X Wing Sliders
Demello Rally Front Bumper
Demello 3 piece rear bumper
Boztec Dif Armor
Redline Landcruiser link skids
Superwinch 12.500 Talon
Synthetic Winch line, Factor 55 thimble and hitch adapter

Wheels
Stock TRD (SOLD)
Method 17x8.5 Split Six Matte Black
Method 17x8.5 NV's (Second set)



Tires
Stock a/t's (SOLD)
Hankook 285/70/17 RT-03 M/T
General Grabber 35/12.50.17 (Second set)

Brakes
TRD Big Brake Kit

Electronics
Odyssey PC 2150 battery
Kenwood 9990HD Head Unit
Alpine PDX V9-5 channel amp
Infinity Kappa 60.11cs component speakers
Focal CVX Coaxials
JL Audio 12" Stealth box
Kenwood 710 Dual band Ham
Boztec Antenna mount
I-Pad Retina for navigation
Ram Mounts
ExtremeAir Magnum Air Compressor, 2 gallon tank, Extreme Outback Products http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/235201-extremeaire-compressor-install.html
Engel 45
portable cb, somewhere
Scan Gauge II
S-Pod/ Dirty Parts Switch panel http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/158490-rock-26.html
Dynamat Extreme and insulation of ceiling (post 153)http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/158490-rock-16.html#post2424781
Katzkin Leather seats

Performance
Airaid CAI http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/149635-airaid-cold-air-intake-review.html
Magnaflow SS Cat Back

Lighting
Baja Racks Utility Rack
Spylight Articulating Light Bar Actuator
Baja Designs 40 " Stealth Bar
Baja Designs Squadron XL's on the bumper (4)
Baja Designs 20" ONX amber (inside bumper)
Baja Designs 20" Stealth Bar (amber) rear facing
Baja Designs S2"s 3x3 per side
Baja Designs 3x3 Squadrons in front bumper

Other Stuff

Husky Liners


Coming soon
New and improved camera system

 

[wikid]

I have been setting the bar higher for my new build. As a part of my SEMA upgrade, I have partnered with Icon

We have put together an Icon System that should make her perform, at the highest standards.

Here s the beginning of the transformation
As a part of the Stage 6 upgrade, I have installed most of the rear set up.
Upper and lower links, adjustable track bar
The other part of the rear set up, are the new bumpstops


The hardest part of this whole process, is the drivers side upper link. Out of all the mods I have done throughout the years, this was the first time I have touched the upper links .

At first I thought it would be relatively easy just to pop them out and put them back in.
The bolts were hard to get to and really tight. I ended up pulling the shocks and a few brackets, then it was fairly easy

Here are some pics of the progress











Here are the new bump stops . They were really easy to assemble and install. If I were just adding these I could do them both in less than 1 hours. You just have to remove the springs and add them.

I really love the fact that I can adjust the rear axle track now. I actually extended it about 1/2 inch just from the beginning. When you lift an FJ you will be able to see the difference of where the axle sits in relation to the body. Lifting always makes the axle sit more to the passenger side. I will be measuring, to get the closer to center placement, after the entire system has been installed



I will be getting more detailed on the rest of the install, since installing the front hoops , for the S2 secondary bypass shocks will be added to the front

There are a whole slew of parts coming in on Monday/Tuesday, so more will happen all at one time

 

[wikid]

The first part of the front upgrade, is pretty typical of changing coilovers and upper control arms. The upper control arms were a breeze to change since you aren't dealing with the large bushings to line up. The billet uca's are really eye candy and well constructed . I basically feed the bolt in , right from the fender well, with hardly any struggle .
There was a 2 day lag between when I did the basic coilover set up to the next step


It's too bad I have to actually work for a living. Otherwise I could spend all my time doing these mods and exploring
Update for the remaining front

I began the upgrade to the S2 system last night

The hoops were already done so here is where I am at . Kind of late when I took this pic.
Passenger side is done, except for the remote to be mounted. I will delay the inevitable until tomorrow. Welded tab, relocated the brake line bracket on the frame and changed the brake line. All of which is necessary to complete this part of the mod. One section of brake line gets replaced with a slightly flexible line that has a hard curve to it, so it won't get in the way of anything. If you do this right, you don't even need to bleed the brakes afterwards.
Disconnect old section of line. Attach upper fitting first. Fluid will drain to the other opening, connect line and there should be no air in it, since it forces air out by gravity.





Before welding the shock mount tab, to the lower control arm I used a piece of aluminum foil to shield the cv boot, since it's in really close proximity to the welding surface



Next morning
I finally had to loose the washer bottle. It just wouldn't allow the remote resi to sit correctly. I guess this means I have to do what I have been delaying for quite some time now. Find a solution for the washer bottle

One other note.
The instruction and parts bag include a small rounded tab to weld to the steering bump stop (if Necessary).
After I cycled the steering wheel I realized that one of the caliper bolts, impacts the lower secondary shock mount bolt at full lock . The "if necessary" part, turned into "definitely necessary". You loose just a little bit of turning radius , but hey, cool parts are now working correctly







I figured if I needed to do this mod again I could cut the time down to at least 1/2 probably 3 hours or so

 

[wikid]

I am going to go through doing my body mount chop, hopefully to simplify some of the mystery behind this often dreaded and talked about modification

Here are a few pictures of the mount in question

Looking down at it from above. The section showing is what needs to be trimmed back Before

After

From the passenger side Before

After

From the wheel location.

Slice removed

This was accomplished in about 5 minutes with a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel, then a grinding wheel

Using a scrap piece of steel I was verifying that I chopped enough off. That steel is pressed flush against the inside of the fender well, down along where I chopped it. This will ensure you have enough, or the tire will be hitting the fender well, as it hits the chop. Then you need to do more extensive action, such as pounding it in. For most of us, this is more than enough

At this point, if you have no access to a welder or don't have the skills, you can just take some black paint and call it a day. If you don't want to install the mud flap then paint any exposed body color metal so it looks all black

if you have access to a welder, you move to this step
Any scrap steel will work. You don't need to make it thicker than the metal already used in the rest of the body mount. It's about 1/8th thick

Again with my scrap steel, I am showing the angle of the chop

This was a scrap piece of steel I found under my bench . Nothing fancy i am sure you can get a piece from most hardware stores or scrap steel recyclers in your area. You need a piece less than 3 inches wide and 6 inches long for each side
Dry fitting it

I made a little bevel on the inside part to fit the contour.

A little trouble with my gas cause some ugliness but I sorted through it

after a little trim and grind

Since I won't be adding the mudflap back I painted the exposed body metal that wasn't black

Passenger side

This project took a total of 45 minutes including pulling the tires, mudflaps, and doing all of these pictures.

Tools needs if you want to do a chop yourself without a welder
angle grinder
cut off wheels
grind disc
Gloves , goggles and or face shield
Jack
hand tools
jack stands
rattle can of black paint. Rustoleum etc

If you want to weld it ... Welder

Here are a few pics I took of a 35" General on a Method 8" wheel 4.5 backspace with no lift, just a BMC

Drivers side almost full lock

 

[wikid]

Total Chaos spindle gusset(with swaybar). How to.

Here are a few of the tools and equipment needed for doing this modification
Gussets
Spindle
Welder
Grinder
Goggles
Gloves
Various other tools as you go

You will want to go through a series of test fit sessions

The gusset kit comes with 2 of the top plate pieces of different thicknesses
You need to use the one that fits best. As you can see the one I have here is the thin one and it has way to big of a gap

This one is much closer

Here is the added gusset that reinforces the tie rod area

I originally used my 4.5 inch grinder to clean the surfaces but found my dremel useful to get all the curves and bumps. All areas that are welded need to be ground clean, for better penetration.

I didn’t have a bolt readily available to secure the top piece so I clamped it. To keep it center in the exsisting hole I used a allen wrench of that diameter . A little unconventional but it worked great

Installing the sawbar is mandatory to make sure the hole lines up

After cleaning everything with carb cleaner, I tacked everything into place

I welded it in different areas, to keep the heat down. Eventually after some cleaning up, it looked like this

Then some black paint.

Installed

 

[wikid]

A couple of tips for you while you fab up your gussets. I forgot it mention this on the initial write up

Looking at the gusset sideways, you can see an area I ground into a dish . When I did the first gusset, I noticed the swaybar link caught that lip and I had to persuade it to line up to the hole. Here is the fix. It allows the link to just slide in the hole without any rub

I also ground the area where the brake line bracket mounted. It just needed a little less material there to line up the bracket correctly

I am updating this procedure to include some fitment information

I was told these may not fit with stock Fj wheels

I decided to try them out
here is what I found
Stock 17 in alloys with the typical 265/70/17 duelers

Method Race wheels 17x8.5 with a 4.75 in backspace Hankook Dynapro 285/70/17 M/T's

 

[wikid]

Skid plates taken to powder coat

Back from the powder coater . The color is called "hi-tech gray"

It's actually almost a perfect match....... well close enough

Install pics

 

[wikid]

Dynamat install
Here are some pics of the dismantling and end results of a a few days.

I didn't start the pics right away.
Here I already have the rear upper inner panel on the right down, to inspect what happen to the captures

Tools of the trade include my cordless , 10 mm socket/ ratchet will get most of the interior pieces off required for removing the headliner. The plastic container is for all of the pieces. The I-phone is optional :lol:

I worked from the back to the front, leaving the 2 button clips in the center of the ceiling to keep the headliner supported

Here's where I dealt with the new Crawl Control box . As you can see I figured out how to take it down. You just need to get something large and flat, to pull down on the corners. it just snaps into place, without any fasteners to actually loosen or move
The 4 holes line up then the white button snaps just pop into place

Here is the housing for the crawl control . That answers my question of whether it would be easy to move Probably not
I was hoping to add a sun roof but I think I can come up with a different option . as you can see , I took this after I put the dynamat in, but I will get back to that.

There are a few suggestions I have at this step.

As you can see I still have the headrests in. Take them out prior to this. Also the upper rear side pieces should be completely removed so you can weasel the headliner in easier. I found the the seat belts that go through the panels, extend far enough to slide the panels out the side doors , without disconnecting them. I missed this step and it was harder to do with those items in the way. On re-assembly the headrests and panels were out of the way. Much easier this way

Since the headliner is about 1500 bucks you want to be careful removing it. It takes a little patience, especially alone, but it can be done. I found that wearing clean latex gloves for this part keeps the headliner relatively smudge free

You do need to clip the wire harness for the exciter speakers and interior lights, to get the headliner out. Afterwards, I just used some wire connectors to re-splice them back together. The exciter speakers will be rewire to use as Ham radio speakers. Since there are 2 of them I will wire them individually for each band of my dual band, so I can tell which station is transmitting, without having to look at the radio

Poof !!, its out resting on a garage table .

Here's what I bought for the ceiling
Dynamat Extreme 36 square FT pack It was $159.00 The roof is approx. 8' x 4' =32 square ft So I have a few pieces left over for doors etc.

In the interest in getting this done quickly I just snapped a few pics on the tri-pod while installing. You can see the dynamat pieces here with a paper backing. You can cut it with scissors, but they get sticky

Presto!! It's done

I happened to have some of the 3/4 inch insulation, left over from my last roof project and used contact adhesive to attach that to the Dynamat.
No pics of that, since I was in work mode

Everything is the same on re assembly

The results are actually immediate. It doesn't feel quite as hollow in the truck now. Since I always do these in stages, it's funny how the higher sound level moves down , toward where the dynamat isn't . The stereo actually already sounds better

 

[lqdchkn]

Finally post this up here huh? :luxhello:

 

[SIZZLE]

Very cool rig. Any action shots?

 

[wikid]

Here are a few






Turned a few lights on

 

[PetitFrereArmada]

Wow!!! Is it right to guess the cost of mods is almost reaching half the cost of the truck?

Nice looking rig, between. I almost thought you were doing all that and that truck would never go offroad.

Nice pics. Show us some more.

 

[wikid]

Thank you.
There are a few dollars involved with my build, but it was built to be used .
This was before the latest round of mods


Last week at Box Canyon AZ with a little Christmas spirit

Almost..... rock camo




Full guns a blazing about 40,000 lumens of them

 

[SIZZLE]

That's what i like to see! Cheers!

 

[Renntag]

Really nice build.
Amazing suspension candy. Wow.
Really like the reinforcement of the steering knuckle. Nice mod.