thinking of buying a disco II

Coachgeo

Explorer
If its a auto, its common for the xyz switch (yes really) to throw the main ecu into thinking your trying to start in drive. Try wiggling the auto shifter into a different position or check the plug connecting them (under the centre console) for a good connection. If it is. You can rebuild the switch.

Going back to the original poster, i cant comment on the price but overall ive found my d2 to be a great all rounder
hmmm. had not seen this mentioned yet. Will check this. Any other suggestions on checking this? It did actually all start with the alarm going off but could be more than one issue going on.
 

wagex

Adventurer
welp i went and picked it up sat, i got it for $4500 it seemed to have an oil leak as the entire underside was soaked and gunked up, drove it two hours home no problems. took it to the car wash cleaned it all up under there ran it about 50 miles got it home to check out the exhaust leak that developed, and whole underside of engine was still dry, i guess it was just left over from the head gasket leak that was recently redone. i think i lucked out. i do have a new manifold to downpipe gasket on the way aparently they forgot to put one in and one of the bolts vibrated out the other two were pretty loose, but simple fix. all in all im super happy so far already drove it down to the river, and took the kiddo's to shoot fire works in it :). now to get her ready for our camping trips coming up, hopefully a good one this fall.
 

lwg

Member
The leak was probably from the front timing cover or front crank seal. Both were likely replaced with the head gasket if they did it right.


Sent from my Toaster
 

wagex

Adventurer
The leak was probably from the front timing cover or front crank seal. Both were likely replaced with the head gasket if they did it right.


Sent from my Toaster

yeah i seen some runs down the passenger side head and also some from the front before i washed it so that is likely the case.
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
More likely the valve covers and timing cover. Oil pan gaskets tend to leak from the 2nd or 3rd bolt back on both sides as well as from the front 3 studs. I use right stuff sealant on all 5 when resealing the oil pan. Also common are the cam position sensor seal, crankshaft seal and oil cooler delete plugs.
 

99Discovery

Adventurer
Now that you've bought it you MUST do the following:

1) Ensure that it is a serviceable shaft, including the centering ball. Do NOT delay. A blown shaft will take out your tranny. Use high temp grease (usually the red-stuff).

This is the fitting for your centering ball:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2). Buy an ultraguage and mount it permanently. My D2 had full records too, with the HG recently done by one of Utah's best Rover shops. The temp. guage was on center. I drove it for 2-3k miles this way. One summer at the McDonald's parking lot I realized the guage moved slightly off-center. I got the UG on the way and installed it and found out my temps were pushing 250F on a mild incline at highway speeds! What!? My thermostat was clogged. Possibly the cause of the HG failure in the first place. I was driving a time bomb. I bought the 180F thermostat for the TD5 diesel motor and now I don't go above 210F in 4-low climbing hills in triple-digit temps in Moab. It is a MUST buy:

http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PEL500110&type=0

3: Do the rest of the high mileage service as needed, before $$ spent on mods: diff, tranny, T-case fluids. rear flex plate (inspect it for cracking), etc.

It took a bit to sort out my '99 which I bought for $5500 with 94k on the clock. I also paid more than the going rate as GetLost4x4 mentioned originally....a clean one in Utah, with records, commands a value that is not market on KBB or the banks. But it was still cheaper than a Land Cruiser!

Once I got everything sorted out, my D2 has been the most reliable (*knock on British Teak*) used car I've ever bought. I'm now up to 127k miles or so and two successfully uneventful trips to Moab.

Enjoy your D2!
 

wagex

Adventurer
Now that you've bought it you MUST do the following:

1) Ensure that it is a serviceable shaft, including the centering ball. Do NOT delay. A blown shaft will take out your tranny. Use high temp grease (usually the red-stuff).

This is the fitting for your centering ball:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2). Buy an ultraguage and mount it permanently. My D2 had full records too, with the HG recently done by one of Utah's best Rover shops. The temp. guage was on center. I drove it for 2-3k miles this way. One summer at the McDonald's parking lot I realized the guage moved slightly off-center. I got the UG on the way and installed it and found out my temps were pushing 250F on a mild incline at highway speeds! What!? My thermostat was clogged. Possibly the cause of the HG failure in the first place. I was driving a time bomb. I bought the 180F thermostat for the TD5 diesel motor and now I don't go above 210F in 4-low climbing hills in triple-digit temps in Moab. It is a MUST buy:

http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PEL500110&type=0

3: Do the rest of the high mileage service as needed, before $$ spent on mods: diff, tranny, T-case fluids. rear flex plate (inspect it for cracking), etc.

It took a bit to sort out my '99 which I bought for $5500 with 94k on the clock. I also paid more than the going rate as GetLost4x4 mentioned originally....a clean one in Utah, with records, commands a value that is not market on KBB or the banks. But it was still cheaper than a Land Cruiser!

Once I got everything sorted out, my D2 has been the most reliable (*knock on British Teak*) used car I've ever bought. I'm now up to 127k miles or so and two successfully uneventful trips to Moab.

Enjoy your D2!

yeah i talked to my dad who's a mechanic it said to just take the shaft off and take it to powerdrive and have them put a zerk in it and go over it, drive shafts is what they do. i might do that if it doesnt have a grease port.
edit: oohhhhhh now i see, i had no idea that was even in there lol. kind of scary il pull it in the shop here after bit and see if it has a grease spot for that bearing.

edit2: just ordered a grease gun and a grease gun accessory kit with a couple different needles.
 
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