thoughts on this CL find

C

calicamper

Expedition Leader
My rule for higher end vehicles name plates like Rover, Mercedes, Lexus, etc is that you find the machine that was the 3rd or 4th vehicle even better if it was the vacation house vehicle they are kept up via dealer visits given the owner has the clams to pay for that and doesn't have the time to bother trying to find a good indy shop. They have low miles on them and are basically hardly used those are the screaming deals.

The costly name brand plates owned by pole dancers and street walkers are just piles of junk one step from the scrap yard. or Repo by the corner lot shady car lot guy.
 
M

mpinco

Expedition Leader
bri said:
The worst thing you can do is buy a range rover with problems. Look for one that is mint and pay the extra money for one that works, has always worked and has all the service history,.
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Pay me now or pay me later comes to mind.

Or, in your best Clint Eastwood voice ...... 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do ya, punk?
 
B

bri

Adventurer
mpinco said:
Pay me now or pay me later comes to mind.

Or, in your best Clint Eastwood voice ...... 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do ya, punk?
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Doesn't really work like that. Consider the one in question. Won't start. 289k miles. Unless there has been NUMEROUS COSTLY items performed on this vehicle you are looking a a bundle to bring it up to snuff.

It's all theory, really, but I likely would not even go look at it. I have '98 disco with 113k miles and an '01 P38 with 140k miles.

That P38 could EASILY require 5000 to get into shape. Especially if it really has 289k miles and a significant amount of original equipment. I have a near mint P38 H&H that was in impeccable shape when I got it. It still required a lot of work within the first 2 year. Heater core, head gasket, air suspesion to start. Something with 289k miles needs every bushing and a whole lot more. Unless that 289k vehicle has absolutely perfect maintenance record, it is to say the least, long in the tooth.

All of a sudden your $875 vehicle is a $7000 vehicle. Sure a lot can be saved doing it yourself, but the time, effort and price should be considered. Do yourself a favor and get something with a known past.

Sometimes the WORST deal is the cheapest.
 
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M

mpinco

Expedition Leader
bri said:
Doesn't really work like that. .......

Sometimes the WORST deal is the cheapest.
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I was agreeing with you. Spend the money on a vehicle with history - pay the extra money for one that works.

Or pay me later (likely a lot sooner than you think) if you buy cheap because you WILL pay, maybe a LOT more. Hence the Eastwood quote.
 
B

bri

Adventurer
mpinco said:
I was agreeing with you. Spend the money on a vehicle with history - pay the extra money for one that works.

Or pay me later (likely a lot sooner than you think) if you buy cheap because you WILL pay, maybe a LOT more. Hence the Eastwood quote.
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Ah gotcha. It is true. If you really want to go through EVERYTHING, you can get older high mileage with no history. If you want great lower mileage and will pay prime (other end of spectrum), contact eliaschristeas. In between is someone with L.R. history or vendor here or from dweb.
 
D

DividingCreek

Explorer
I'd pick that 95 classic lwb over the p38 every day of the week. One's value continues to climb, the other is still free falling to zero.
 
oscar the grouch

oscar the grouch

Jeep Nut
454 said:
Wiring issues? Run.
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The dents are on the drivers corner and quarter panels. I had all dents removed and touch up paint done in some areas about a year ago. The week after I had her fixed up, a major ice storm hit and I slid sideways into a fire truck. Still haven't gotten the motivation to fix it. Price isn't too bad because of the availability of scrap Rovers around Atlanta to pick body parts from. Last round of repairs, junkyard body parts ranged from $20 to $150. Just takes a bit of time to find one in the right color and acceptable condition but is way cheaper than having a body shop perform repairs. I've attached some pictures of the dents. Beyond what was mentioned, I've included a picture of smaller dents on the tailgate and passenger door (last two photos).

Regarding the wiring, the instrument panel or guages don't work (tach, speed, odometer, etc.) as well as the driver seat motor, side view mirror motors and rear window motors. The electrician at The Shop (Rover place in Norcross) told me that these are more than likely all tied to one wiring issue involving a panel under the driver's seat...not a bunch if unrelated fixes. He couldn't give me an estimate until he actually got into the job.

The '95 Rovers are the most desirable of the classics because they're the one crossover year that featured the more modern soft dash like the Discovery. Additionally, the long wheel base (LWB) is in higher demand because of extra legroom for passengers. The nicer ones (i.e. after repairs) typically sell for $8-12k. I've priced mine to reflect the fact that it still has some issues to resolve before being of that caliber. That being said, it is already much nicer and cleaner than most I looked at when I was on the hunt.

Give me a call if you have an interest in talking further. I'm rarely around on the weekends but actually in town this weekend and would be happy to meet somewhere.
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im hesitant to even look at this thing.
 
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