Timing Gear Question for 200TDI gu-ru

[pratty85]

About a year ago I changed my timing belt and tensioner in my Defender's 200tdi. The previous belt had been making contact with a bolt that holds the crank case to the block, I assumed that was the reason the belt was slowly peeling off the inside. I replaced that bolt with the proper one when I changed the belt. A week or to ago I was going through everything, and noticed some belt shavings inside the housing, so I ordered up a new belt and proceeded to take everything apart again, this time everything came apart smoothly thanks to my old friend anti-seize. What I discovered this time, was not only the belt shredded it was starting to wear the inside housing, so I began to investigate what was pushing the belt into the housing. What I found was that the cam gear, crank gear, and injection pump gear were all wore down on the inside teeth.




So this lead me to think what would have caused this to occur, so I took a straight edge and checked to see if one of the gears was was not aligned with the other two. The injection pump gear is slightly inset compared to the cam gear and crank gear, almost an 1/8 of an inch.

Cam gear to Injection pump gear:



Crank Gear to Injection pump gear:



Crank gear to cam gear is perfect:


So my questions are:

A: Is the injection pump sup-post to be slightly inset?

B: Is there a bushing that is suppost to go between the injection pump gear and the housing?

C: Judging by the slight gash in the far left of the cast aluminum housing (which must have happened when someone swapped this motor) could the injection end of the case be slightly bent towards the motors and be causing this misalignment? (I checked the rear injection pump support bracket to see if there was any signs of movement and there wasn't)

Thanks ahead for your input!

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

First of all...I have no clue.

Next...I'd guess you might have better luck sharing this on DefenderSource.

 

[meatblanket]

Hard to tell from your pictures but if you have visible wear on the gears, that might be causing the belt to run from the unworn area down to the worn area. Are the gears worn such that the belt wants to move inward? If so, then replacing the gears should resolve this.

A. I don't recall if the pump pulley lines up exactly or not. But it really shouldn't matter.

B. No bushing.

C. Doubtful. The cast aluminum timing chest would more likely break as opposed to bending, but I guess it's possible.

Are you tensioning the belt per the manual?

 

[pratty85]

Thanks Meatblanket,

The belt moving inward is definitely whats happening, and the gears are worn on the inside edge.

I ordered all new gears from the UK yesterday, I din't think it would matter much if the pulleys lined up either, but it stood out to me, and I needed someone else to re-assure me. I tensioned the belt to spec when I changed it last time, I think I just assumed the bolt was all of the problem last time and didn't check the gears. The gears weren't as expensive as I expected thankfully.

 

[DividingCreek]

That's a new one on me. Its usually the early 300 belts that walked not 200's.

 

[Red90]

The tensioner is the part with shoulders that should be preventing the belt from walking. What does the tensioner look like and how is it aligned? Did you use a new OEM tensioner?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14285

 

[pratty85]

Yup I used an OEM tensioner, and it didn't appear to be worn at all.

 

[Red90]

Then I'm not sure. Is the injection pump mounted to the timing case correctly? No extra spacer or something?

 

[pratty85]

I will check that next.