Titan Overheating

[Mack4]

I've been chasing an overheating issue with my 2010 Titan for the last two summers.

My truck spends a lot of time idling on drilling locations, and when it gets above 100 degrees, my truck will start to overheat pretty rapidly. If I leave the A/C off, it's a non issue, with the A/C on, give it about 2-3 hours and the truck starts to have problems.

Moving slowly down trails also produces the same result. Any speed or strong wind into the nose of the truck and the heat drops right off.

It's been into the dealer many, many times. They've done everything but replace the radiator on the thing.

I've been toying with a couple of ideas and wanted to get some input.

Hood Louvers: major surgery on my hood at the tune of $300.00

Electric Fan: not sure if this will do enough to cool down the truck.

New Radiator: Maybe the best option, anyone know of any high capacity aftermarket they like?

-Mack

 

[pugslyyy]

Is it an electrical or mechanical fan? mechanical I would say a bad fan clutch.

 

[Rebelord]

Check to see if Hayden makes a HD clutch for your truck. If not a fresh OEM one from Nissan.
Also, you could add in some simple electric fans to help out.
Have you checked to make sure the radiator and AC condenser fins are not clogged up with dirt/dust? Big area for debris build up is between them. (Notorious on 82-92 GM F-bodys to build up with leaves, dead critters etc.)
Check the radiator for proper flow in case it has a clog somewhere. Found this on a quick google search: http://www.nissanraceshop.com/product/332839/racing-radiator-titanarmada-qx56-3328

 

[Dances with Wolves]

what model do you have mack? I have a '05 big tow, offroad package and it never gets hot. it's been 100+ last few days and i was rock crawlin this weekend. no problems. I bet you have an air bubble that needs bleeding.

 

[Co-opski]

Sounds like extreme conditions for a truck sitting and idling for long periods of time.
Have you thought of just opening the hood to let it cool as it sits on your drill pad idling? Also look into hood spacers that put a gap in the back of the hood hinges. It may be the cheapest route, verse cutting the hood louvers or adding a larger radiator. Some trucks up here move the radiator to a different location (buggy or prerunners), but these guys know they are putting there trucks through hell and modify them accordingly.

 

[Mack4]

Thanks for the input guys! For clarity it's a 2010 Pro4x and this is engine number two, it had the long block replaced at 50k right after I purchased it.

It's not the fan clutch or the radiator cap, I am going to try to burp it and clear out any air bubbles.

Blew out the radiator and whatnot, looks pretty clean in there.

You're right, if I leave the hood open I don't have any issues. Because of that, I am leaning towards Louvres, but hood spacers sound interesting and don't require major surgery.

Dealer is trying to tell me it should be able to idle for long durations without overheating issues, but with that huge V8 crammed in that tiny engine bay, it seems like it would always run a little hot.

Oddly enough it's not dry heat that's the issue. West Texas at 110 and it doesn't seem to suffer as much. East Texas at 100 and 80% humidity and it'll only take an hour for it to heat up. Of course in West Texas I generally have some wind blowing as well.

- Mack

 

[Rebelord]

The easy method for spacing the hood is to stack washers on the hinge where the hood attaches. However I dont know how the Titans hood attaches. I think several have done it here. Should be able to google it.

 

[Mack4]

I'd like to shoot this problem in the head so...

High Performance Radiator

High Performance Water Pump

Hood Louvers

-Mack

 

[Co-opski]

I'd like to shoot this problem in the head so...

High Performance Radiator

High Performance Water Pump

Hood Louvers

-Mack

I like how you take care of business. Now for pictures.

 

[Mack4]

Well, I did the Radiator and the Water Pump, but the Louvers will have to wait- both front bearings are almost gone and had to be replaced!

-Mack

 

[Co-opski]

I hear you just did mine this weekend. The Nissan Koyo, NSK lasted about 185K miles for me, and Napa had the same brandnames under there Napa Bearings. I only repacked them 3 times in the 185K that I got out of them.

 

[Mack4]

Just completed the WABDR with the Titan.

The water pump and radiator did not fix my overheating issue. The engine temperature never got as high as it did before, but at idle in 90+ degree weather and on long climbs the temp gauge would pop up into the red zone.

In order to complete the WABDR we had to prop the hood up about 4" and keep the A/C off. With that setup we had no issues at all. Despite High 90s and low 100s and some very steep, long climbs.

When we get back to Texas I am goign to try to spend some more time diagnosing the problem. It's not a huge issue not having A/C, but it gets a little uncomfortable with these high summer temperatures.

-Mack

 

[skibum315]

How'd your burping go, from before? I know on the VQ40 motors in the Xterra & Frontier, guys can sometimes have a heck of a time getting every last bubble out ... and if there's one trapped in there, as I'm sure you know, it can play havoc with the system's cooling ability.

Side note: How'd the Titan do on the WABDR? Any places where the size caused any problems? Any issues with the breakover angle?

 

[madmax718]

Do you drive through bugs or something? Im pretty certain much like every other vehicle, the AC condenser is in front of the radiator. Check to make sure the AC condenser isn't packed with bugs.

Second thing, hook up a real time OBD2 reader to see what the computer see's the engine coolant temp is. If you have a normal coolant temp reading there, but a spiking gauge, it could be an air pocket, or a bad gauge sensor. Their two different sensors..

most vehicles when the fan is in full draw can keep a tissue at least sucked up against the condenser. If yours is barely able to do that, your having a big airflow issue.

My guess is the air flow issue, as you say, there is no problems when the hood is slightly propped open. That to me is a definitive answer that there is not enough air flow under hood. Do you have massive skid plats under there?

 

[madmax718]

Btw, if you have an instant read thermometer, they are awesome to diagnose these issues. Even better is a thermal scanner. Usually with air bubbles, its a flow issue- in which case, the hoses are of a massively lower temperature. If your hoses are equally as hot as the radiator, then the radiator isn't able to spew the heat out. One side will be hotter than the other. If both sides are equal, and so is the hoses, then its cooling ability.