TJ ride quality

SeaRubi

Explorer
stock '06 rubi unlimited, and the ride quality off-road is pretty bad. Even with the longer wheelbase of the unlimited, I could swear there are leafs holding the axles on :)

On a short-arm (stock) type setup, is an OME kit enough to smooth things out or do I need to up my medical plan to afford the oncoming kidney transplant?
The ride quality is horrendous - rockier sections of trail or road come close to giving me a concussion.

Just curious what some other folks have done to make the longer hauls more friendly to children's teeth and my internal organs.

cheers
-isaac
 

Wanderlusty

Explorer
I can't give you any sure fired remedies, as I have just kind of dealt with it. I am actually pretty pleased with the ride on-road and off, when considering the specs of a Jeep.

Before getting the whole OME setup, unless you plan on lifting anyway, try just getting some of their shocks. It is on my wish list, and have always heard GREAT things. In fact, I have never heard anyone say a bad thing about anything OME.

I think, though, that even with the best the aftermarket has to offer, it will never ride like a Cadillac.
 

articulate

Expedition Leader
I found that anti-sway bar disconnects improved the off-road ride on my TJ. It's a night and day difference. How about your tire pressure? Get those things down to 15 psi or so.

An Old Man Emu kit will help - it's definately better on road - but I think disconnecting the anti-sway bar does more for improving the ride on rough roads.

Hope it helps. :safari-rig:

Mark
 

Wanderlusty

Explorer
Discos are on my wish list, and I thought they may help, but since I have never disconnected them, I did not want to venture an opinion, but in principle, I thought that might be the right way to go. I think they just moved a little further up the 'want' list.

;)
 

Steve Curren

Explorer
I must agree with Mark, disconnects and tire pressure makes a world of difference. I found that when you drop to 12-15 pounds it makes a big difference on the bumpy roads.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
thanks guys. i've been keeping the tires at about 18 ~ 20psi. i haven't tried disconnecting the sway bar yet (been too lazy) ... assuming it wouldn't have much effect. i'll give it a go.

I've strongly suspected the factory nitrogen charged shocks are much of the culprit. There's so little travel to them that the valving must be extremely stiff to not bottom out all the time.

I'm trying really hard to resist the temptation to over-modify this rig. Pretty easy right now since I'm broke, but that's besides the piont :clapsmile My last was riding around on bilstein 7100's ... VERY nice ride, but a major PITA and expense to fit them, and keep the heim joints happy with any kind of road use.

i see an OME kit and some 255's at some point in my future, but I worry that it won't do much to improve the ride.
 

cshontz

Supporting Sponsor
I beg to differ somewhat - I agree that OME offers superb ride quality compared to other aftermarket suspensions. It may also improve handling. But as far as comfort is concerned, I don't think it is better than stock. In fact, I think it is uncommon for any suspension that increases ride height to offer better-than-stock ride quality due to changes (albeit slight) to suspension geometry and increased spring rates. Make no mistake, OME makes the best of this.

With the possible exception of the $4,000 Nth Degree system which changes the suspension geometry so thoroughly for superior comfort and performance at a significantly increased ride height.

Actually, I think your 245/75R16 load range E tires are the culprit. Those things are bricks. They're still nice tires though, and great off-pavement. I'd hold onto them. Good luck! :)
 

cshontz

Supporting Sponsor
You know, I just noticed that the original post was regarding off-road comfort, and my previous post was kinda skewed toward on-road. That'll teach me to skim! :smilies27

In that case, air down to 12-15, and disconnect your front swaybar. That's all there is to it. You'll be riding on a cloud. It'll feel like a Lincoln on those rocks. Good luck! :D
 

endo

PRIMITIVEROAD
I know I am just a newb here but this is a topic in which i do have some background. My jeep is long armed with re monotubes and the ride is plush.
Air pressure is a quick fix for off road as are (anti)sway bar discos but once you get above 2 or three inches in actuall lift height the angle of the controls arms make the ride VERY harsh. at that point a long arm greatly reduces said angles and improves ride quaility all the way around by shere happenstance I had all four wheels in the air a couple of weeks ago by mistake and if I had not been told so by onlookers I would never have known, that being said had I been on short arms i can bet i would have felt it in my back for days.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
You would probably be surprized how smooth short arms land. I was shocked. I had absolutely no idea about how much air was under my jeep until I saw the video.

But you are correct about the ride quality. The higher you go, the more energy is transferred to the frame rather than absorbed by the spring and shock. Even with 3.5" of lift, I am looking at going to long arms to smooth things out and get the front axle back under control (it is pretty easy to pick a tire up in a turn). The problem with long arms is that they are quite easy to bend when you play on jeep sized rocks.
 

RunninRubicon

Adventurer
ruff rider

SeaRubi said:
stock '06 rubi unlimited, and the ride quality off-road is pretty bad. Even with the longer wheelbase of the unlimited, I could swear there are leafs holding the axles on :)

On a short-arm (stock) type setup, is an OME kit enough to smooth things out or do I need to up my medical plan to afford the oncoming kidney transplant?
The ride quality is horrendous - rockier sections of trail or road come close to giving me a concussion.

Just curious what some other folks have done to make the longer hauls more friendly to children's teeth and my internal organs.

cheers
-isaac
Gee isaac, I have to ask. Do you air-down when you go rock-crawling? Do you run stock tires and shocks? These things have allot to do with your inquiry. Here's a few options that many of us have added to assit with the rough ride you speak to. .....I'm just curious and so I must ask...Did you TEST DRIVE your Jeep before you bought it? You sound as if you did'nt know what you were purchasing when you bought a Jeep. It's JEEP not a SUV or a car. It has a short-wheelbase and some very unique charartistics.
None the less, many of us run different shocks because we have installed different suspensions-I like Bilstein 5100's. They provide a much more supple ride and better control over obsticles. Secondly, If I feel the trail is overly harsh, I air-down the tires. This really can save on the kidneys and your back teeth! Several companies sell deflators, I run Stauns. They work well enough. Lastly, if your going to air down for the trail you need to air-up for the highway. I have tired several methods-on board air compressors and etc. But for simplicity I suggest a CO2 tank. I can usually air-up all four of my tires about four times with but one refill. Refills run $5.35 locally.
Just some things to consider.:REOutShootinghunter
 

endo

PRIMITIVEROAD
goodtimes said:
(it is pretty easy to pick a tire up in a turn). The problem with long arms is that they are quite easy to bend when you play on jeep sized rocks.

I have found that picking up the tire is more a function of the antisway bar and not the control arms as with my discos set up short and tight I can still carry the front tire in the air through a turn with ease.
And although it may seem like they would be easier to bend I would need to see it to believe it as thus far that has not been my experience.

Cheers.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
The bending problem with the long arms comes from 2 main points. First is the simple fact that they hang much lower than short arms. Look at the profile of two jeeps with the same amount of lift, one with long arms and one with short arms...the long arms are much more likely to be in contact with the rocks, which is step #1 when bending them.

The other is pure physics. The longer the distance between the attachment point and the instant moment (load) put on the link, the more leverage the link has to support. More leverage = easier to bend. I have watched a number of long arms bend, both good lines on hard trails (hammers), and bad lines on easy trails (rubicon, etc).

Alot of people I talk to are really happy with the J-arms from Currie...sort of a compromise between long and short....not sure if I like the loss of ground clearance though.
 

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